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[JudgeColt]

Don't return the gun for such a small issue. Just take off the sideplate, which is simple to remove and replace, contrary to what MtnSpur says, and replace the Nylon nub and spring if necessary. If you can change a tire or change your oil, you have sufficient skills to remove a sideplate and replace it.

[Ronald12]

I have a good set of Chapman gun screwdrivers. I have regularly dissassembled my WW2 pocket pistols (Walthers and Mausers), but for some reason taking off the side plate just has me concerned. I don't have a problem removing the 2 screws. Tapping the side plate removes it? How easy is it to replace if you have to tap it to remove? Right now, the line where the side plate and frame meet are nearly invisible.
The revolver is about 65-70% blue and grips are worn, but the lock up is bank value tight and that is what I like.
I can get a spring, but where is the source for the nylon bushing? Would anybody here have an extra they would send me? I know this sounds very minor, but I appreciate the help. I bought this as I wanted to sell my S&W model 36, but it looks like I may just keep the Smith. Ron

[MtnSpur]

Don't return the gun for such a small issue. Just take off the sideplate, which is simple to remove and replace, contrary to what MtnSpur says, and replace the Nylon nub and spring if necessary. If you can change a tire or change your oil, you have sufficient skills to remove a sideplate and replace it.

The OP bought and paid for a revolver in good working condition, why should he have to "futz around" with it to make it right. I'd still err on the side of caution, contrary or not. Yes Judge, you've removed and replaced sideplates as have many here BUT not everyone is as comfortable nor proficient as others. The OP can find another that does not need fixing out of the box, yes?

[Ronald12]

I agree! I will save and get one that does not require me to bring it up to standard. I returned it. Ron

The OP bought and paid for a revolver in good working condition, why should he have to "futz around" with it to make it right. I'd still err on the side of caution, contrary or not. Yes Judge, you've removed and replaced sideplates as have many here BUT not everyone is as comfortable nor proficient as others. The OP can find another that does not need fixing out of the box, yes?

[porsche]

Since most double action Colt revolvers made since 1900 or so (excluding Mklll types) are remarkably similar in design I once bought a beater for under one hundred dollars just to use as a take down learning experience. I found it to be easier when very little is at stake. I also found that some maintenance is quite simple and that by following the Khunhausan book I repaired and now shoot that 32 new police revolver. So as the Judge points out, arm yourself with a little knowledge and learn some maintenance for these fine pieces of machinery.

[Ronald12]

I have one more question. With the weak spring not providing suffiecient pressure/tension on the cylinder locking, isn't it a possibility under recoil, the cylinder could open? When you close dthe cylinder you really don't hear a very positive click of the locking bolt engaging. I would feel this would be a safety concern for me.
Any other thoughts, Ron

Yes.
You paid for a gun in good shape and didn't get it.
While the repair could be a very simple fix, it might be something else that could cost you a trip to Colt for repair.

[JudgeColt]

With the weak spring not providing suffiecient pressure/tension on the cylinder locking, isn't it a possibility under recoil, the cylinder could open?

NO! It is not the spring that keeps the latch in place under recoil. The latch is mechanically prevented from moving when the trigger is pulled. Considering the velocity of the recoil, it would take a substantial spring to overcome Newton's First Law of Motion if only the spring were stopping the movement of the latch.

If the gun was otherwise nice, I still would have asked for a price adjustment and fixed it myself. Your money, your choice.

[Ronald12]

There would not have been any price adjustments.
The latch pin did not have enough tension behind it to make it protrude far enough to hold the cylinder, it would not hold under recoil. On this revolver, you clould close the cylinder and if you did not push the latch forward after closing the cylinder, then you could apply pressure on the opposite side of the cylinder and the cylinder could be pushed out without even releasing the latch. Now if you closed the cylinder and then pushed the latch forward, you could not push the cylinder out.
As I had made my mind up and the revolver was returned for a full refund, I feel I should not have to do any gunsmithing to bring it up to safe standards. I would not have been happ even if it was a minor adjustment to someone.
Ron

NO! It is not the spring that keeps the latch in place under recoil. The latch is mechanically prevented from moving when the trigger is pulled. Considering the velocity of the recoil, it would take a substantial spring to overcome Newton's First Law of Motion if only the spring were stopping the movement of the latch.

If the gun was otherwise nice, I still would have asked for a price adjustment and fixed it myself. Your money, your choice.