Cleaning Nickel SAAs

[Shack]

This has been discussed before, but I ran across a product that I haven't seen mentioned previously and am interested in opinions other than mine.

It's Wright's Silver Polish.

I couldn't find locally any Flitz, which is so often recommended. So I asked my wife what she uses to clean silverware and she had a small amount of Wright's left. It's a thick blue liquid and you wipe it on with a damp cloth and apply a little (or in my case) a lot of elbow grease. I tried it on the nickel 44-40 3rd Generation that has recently had 200 lead rounds thru it. The gun was heavily blacked up. It did completely clean the sides of the cylinder and some of the cylinder face. And it would have cleaned the rest of the face but I got tired of rubbing.

How does this stack up against what else is being used? And how often can you do this without damaging the finish?

Btw, another cleaning question. I've got several break open shotguns and have been advised one of the chief causes of problems is failing to use a proper grease instead of oil on the hinge pins. So, I got the bright idea of wondering if maybe grease instead of oil might possibly have some advantage on a SAA's base pin and/or cylinder bushing, seeing that the uses are vaguely similar.

I have a couple heavier than regular oil lubes in hand if anyone likes that idea. The one in plentiful and cheap supply is just plain old #2 multi purpose automotive grease. Thick stuff. A couple others are by Labelle, #102 gear oil (a bit heavier than regular oils) and #106 grease with PTFE.

I would otherwise use 3-In-One, as it's a lot less messy to work with.

Incidentally, the gunsmith uses RIG grease on shotgun hinge pins. There is also a grease sold in the local gun shop that is dedicated for that purpose, but I skipped it on the grounds that the container is REAL small for what it costs.

[Kid Sopris]

One of the reasons "Flitz" and "Semichrome" became so popular was because they were originally developed to use on Motorcycle exhaust pies, which are chrome, but get very hot. Older style Polishes and cremes use to turn the exhaust pipes a bluish color when heated.

I suspect that Silver polish is designed to clean Tarnished Silver not Blackened surfaces caused by nitates, gun powder and hot exhaust gases.

I don't think I will change my routine. Midway and Brownelss both carry Flitz. A little, can last a Long Time. Use sparingly, as you will not have to rub the finish off to get results.

[Shack]

Yes, that's correct. The container does say tarnish remover.

Would the same objections apply to Nevr-Dull? The around the corner hardware store does carry that and I've seen it pictured here before in past cleaning threads.

[Kid Sopris]

Same Objections...Along with Gasoline, Paint Thinner,Boric Acid and everything else listed in the Hardware department under General Cleaning.

[broknaxl]

I've picked up the Silver Polishing Clothes at Sears (in the jewelry section) - These are treated with a polishing agent and are good for quick wipedowns. But for a thoughall going over I use the Flitz or Mothers Mag polish.

[Hopalong]

Flitz works very well.

[Shack]

I'm going to take a stab at answering my own question about possible use of grease instead of oil on the base pin and cylinder bushing.

I tried it, #2 gear grease or lube. And, I didn't care for it. Two reasons. One, it is REAL messy to work with. Two, it makes the cylinder not want to spin anywhere near as freely.

I don't know whether that would create any long term undue wear on other parts or if it could harm the nickel finish. But, it doesn't matter. It's just an unappealing result, which I won't repeat.

So I cleaned out the #2 automotive grease I experimented with on base pin and bushing (with denatured alcohol - that's unlikely to harm anything) and substituted Labelle #102 gear oil. It's from another hobby interest. I think it's a little more "supportive" of those parts and has a bit more substance than 3-In-One or other thin oils. I imagine it's not likely to harm the nickel either. Its other hobby use requires it be plastic compatible, so I think it's fairly "tame".

The cylinder now spins more freely like it always did.

Anyway, how often do you use the Flitz? After each shooting? Or do you wait til there's more residue? And do you think the residue hardens over time if not promptly removed?

Incidentally, I called Wright's Silver Polish and their help desk said it's not recommended for nickel plated guns, and they said it does contain ammonia.

[Recoil Rob]

Btw, another cleaning question. I've got several break open shotguns and have been advised one of the chief causes of problems is failing to use a proper grease instead of oil on the hinge pins.

Incidentally, the gunsmith uses RIG grease on shotgun hinge pins. There is also a grease sold in the local gun shop that is dedicated for that purpose, but I skipped it on the grounds that the container is REAL small for what it costs.

The two main causes of double guns getting loose, or "off face" as it known, are not keeping the hinge pin and hook clean and using loads too heavy for the gun.

Grease on a pin is fine but grease holds dirt and grit which will wear down the pin/hook interface. Once it has any play at all pounding from shells will make it worse.

Grease on the pin/hook is fine as is oil, but it should be cleaned and relubed after every use.