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  1. #1
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    Should I oil the inside of a magazine?

    More specifically, should I oil the inside of my stock Colt .45 magazine, and if so how?

  2. #2
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    It's not necessary, and a film of oil would only attract dirt/dust/lint/unburned powder that could "gum" up the works and cause a malfunction.

    Periodically just disassemble the magazine and run a dry cloth, or magazine brush, through it to get out anything accumulated in the tube.
    Stay safe,
    Randy

  3. #3
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    Oil/cleaners KILL PRIMERS! So we definitely don't want any liquids inside the magazine that could migrate into the primers. If you choose to clean them, leave them dry when you are done. CC

  4. #4
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    Contrary to popular opinion, lubricants don't "kill" primers.
    For a good test of this, take a look at the famed "Box O' Truth" web site test number 39, under the
    "Original Chapters":

    http://www.theboxotruth.com/

    In this test, primed cases were liberally soaked with WD-40, bore solvents and other liquids with zero primer failures. Even Kroil failed to kill a primer.

    Magazines WILL rust just like all other gun parts.
    Apply a thin coat of a lube to the inside of the magazine and the spring, then wipe off all the excess. leaving just a thin layer to prevent rust.
    Dirt will not stick to the parts and no primer will die a premature death.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyhamrick View Post
    Periodically just disassemble the magazine and run a dry cloth, or magazine brush, through it to get out anything accumulated in the tube.
    My magazines are the stock Colt .45 seven round magazines that came with my series 80. I didn't know that they could be disassembled. How do I accomplish that?

    Thanks

  6. #6
    10X
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    Get a wood ruler or the like and straighten out a paper clip.
    Push down the follower a coulpe of inches with the ruler.
    Put the paper clip through one of the mag side holes through the mag to catch the spring, but below the follower. That takes the tension off of the follower. Turn upside down to let the follower fall to the feedlips of the mags and then pull the follower forward. It should slip out of the mag.

  7. #7
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    Don't oil 1911 magazines. Any regular oil that you put in there will make dirt or sand stick to it. Just keep them clean. I blow them out with a bit of Gun Scrubber every once in a while or if I drop them in the dirt.

    The only exception is the 62 round MAC-11 stick mags I use. On those I use Dry-Lub' which does not hold dirt.

  8. #8
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    [QUOTE=FlameRed;136973]Don't oil 1911 magazines. Any regular oil that you put in there will make dirt or sand stick to it. Just keep them clean. I blow them out with a bit of Gun Scrubber every once in a while or if I drop them in the dirt.
    QUOTE]

    Sounds like a good idea if followed by some Break Free?

  9. #9
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    Magazines do not need lube, generally. Lube attracts dust and holds dirt and powder fouling. If you want to prevent rust, a wax type product is better - and stainless steel 1911 mags are better yet. Solid or wax type lubes can't migrate.

    I think RCBS knows something about handling and using ammo components, if their many reloading manuals are to be believed. Quoting the RCBS Ammomaster2 Reloading Press Manual: "Soak primers in oil for a few days to deactivate them." I have seen this in other loading manuals over the years as well. If it didn't work, it wouldn't have been quoted for the last 30 years that I know of. Or is someone here willing to warranty that oil CANNOT kill primers? One limited test will not convince me.

    So it may take a little while, but if oil gets in, it can happen. Murphy being who he is, at the worst possible time.

    The Box of Truth article starts out with the writer actually successfully killing open primers (100%) with WD-40 in just a few hours of soaking, by an honest test! He then tests factory sealed, loaded ammo. (Most factory ammo, but not all, has primer sealant.) If the oil/solvent can't get in, no problem. But if it does, then how much is too much? How long before deactivation occurs? I'm not saying it will happen every time - but it is a possibility I don't need to leave in play. Primers are vulnerable - if exposed to the wrong chemical. So my mags are clean - and dry to the touch.

    In using magazine fed guns since the 1960's, IPSC shooting by the thousands of rounds, etc, I've cleaned magazines and then wiped out any cleaner used until it could no longer be picked up by a patch. I've had no rust or feed problems - and no duds.

    Each to his own, you pay your money and take your choice. Why risk it? Very respectfully, CC

  10. #10
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    A couple of years ago the American Rifleman did an article on primers.
    Part of the article stated that its near impossible to really kill a primer.
    They did some tests to deactivate primers with lubes but found that as soon as the lube dried out, the primer "came back to life" and could be fired.

    So, yes, if you try hard enough you might be able to deactivate a primer, but don't count on it being permanent.
    Also, once seated in the case and loaded with a bullet, the primer is very lube-proof.
    In other words, don't be stupid about soaking the ammo in something, but a little rust preventing lube in a magazine isn't going to cause any problems.

    Last, over my time in the shop I've seen a lot of magazines rusted inside from either lack of maintenance or because the owner didn't apply some rust preventing substance to keep the mags from rusting.
    The MOST rusted part: The magazine spring, which is bare metal and is an item that tends to break from stress caused by rust attacking it.
    If you find rust on a magazine spring, replace it, don't try trying to clean it off. When metal rusts it pits. Pits weaken springs.


 
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