SAA went out of time. PICTURES ADDED

[rep1954]

I have a 357 SAA that has started draging the bolt stop before engaging in it's cylinder slot. The gun worked fine when I got it new. This is the first time I've have to deal with this with a SAA where should I start?

[Cyrus]

I'm no Eddie Janis but my first thought is the hammer cam/bolt leg relation. Maybe the bolt leg is worn or needs to be bent/spread from the other leg again? I'm curious to hear what the experts have to say.

[peacemaker]

Are you saying the bolt is dragging on the outer diameter of the cylinder before it enters the bolt lead? If so, how much ahead of the lead is the cylinder being scored?

[rep1954]

It starts dragging on the cylinder about 5/16" before the notch. At first it's light and then becomes harder as it enters the notch. The gun is about 1 year old and has around 1000 rounds through it.

[peacemaker]

Yeah, if it makes contact with the cylinder that far ahead of the ramp, or lead, then that's not right. It should drop about that far ahead of the actual bolt locking slot, but in the lead, not on the surface of the cylinder.

I would disassemble the parts and inspect them. It's possible the top corner of the bolt leg may have rounded, causing the bolt face to creep enough to touch the cylinder before finally sliding off the hammer cam.

Can you watch the bolt between the frame and cylinder while cocking slowly and see if the bolt drops (rises) toward the cylinder slowly, or if it snaps to the cylinder, or both?

[rep1954]

It just pops right up with no warning that it's coming. I'll take it apart this weekend and check for a broken on rounded corner on the bolt leg, thanks.

[rep1954]

Well I tore it apart today and this is what I found. It looks to me like a new bolt maybe? Is it better to get one that isnt plated? Should the corners be square on the new one? I suppose I should just tear down one of my proper working guns and copy whats going on there.

[peacemaker]

The bolt is definitely dropping off the hammer cam too soon, due to wear on the bolt leg, cam, or both.

That's just how the 3rd generation bolts look- rounded, polished and silvery. They aren't plated (usually).

It's interesting that the hammer cam was machined while in the hammer. Unless there are other reasons for it, that usually indicates being welded and remachined to shape during a repair.

It does appear there is a small flat on the top, back corner of the left finger of the bolt where it slides off the cam. It takes very little wear there to make a big difference. Less explainable is what appears to be a larger flat on the top corner of the right finger. Don't know what to make of that, as there should be no wear there.

I would suggest a new bolt. I would also suggest that whoever fits it keep a straight angle at the back end of the finger with no rounding at the top corner other than what it takes to just break the edge of its sharpness (not refering to the angle on the top, side that slides past the cam upon return).

[RDak]

I would do EXACTLY as peacemaker says.

New bolt and just lightly run a stone on the SIDE that passes over the cam (i.e., the left arm of the bolt).

One light swipe with the stone at a time. Put the bolt back in each time and test for proper let off. It will take time but it should work out fine IMHO.

(The right side of the bolt might have just been made that way but it does look a little flat on the top corner of the right finger.)

Anyway, FWIW, I would buy a new bolt like peacemaker says.

ETA: I had to do this a few times to friend's old Colt SAA's and it worked out good each time. But I took my time and ONLY stoned the side of the left leg that rides over the hammer cam.

Don't touch the hammer cam. (Guys who know their stuff do polish the hammer cam but I am not that knowledgable and leave the hammer cam untouched.)

A new bolt will usually come a bit oversized so you can fit it. No biggie if you go slow.

You will also have to fit the new bolt head to the cylinder notch.

Take material off of the NON LEADING edge ONLY. DO NOT take any material off of the leading edge when narrowing down the width of the bolt head to fit into the cylinder notch.

Also keep the same "sloped" angle of the bolt head.

So, even if you have to remove some material from the top of the bolt head because it is hitting the cylinder too hard............KEEP the same angle that it originally had. (I suppose it is ok to increase the angle but do not decrease the angle of the bolt head's slope. I have never had to change the angle in any of the guns I fitted a new bolt to though.)

[rep1954]

A lot of good help here and I thank everyone. Holy smokes $45.00 for a new bolt I sure would hate to buy a SAA one piece at a time. The legs do seem to converge towards each other and I may try the idea of spreading the legs and see what happens. most of my experience with bent steel is everytime it gets bent back and forth it just gets weaker each time but hey its worth a try. I will be ordering a new bolt this week as with the few Colts that I do have there should be one on hand. I will try, correction, i will fit the bolt myself as a new learning experience is always fun.