New Army - stuck crane lock

[adowns]

I have a Colt New Army .41 that came with one of the side plate screws stuck and its screw slot gone. I successfully drilled it and removed it with an easy-out. The crane lock screw has a poor condition slot but it is NOT stuck. It will revolve maybe 1/8 turn, but it won't force out the crane lock which is stuck firmly. I've soaked it with Kroil and PB Blaster, but it still won't move. What should I do next? Would it do any good to drill out the crane lock screw and put an easy-out in the drilled hole which would maybe give me a little more torque than I can apply to the damaged screw slot, or should I drill the crane lock itself?


I found the posting quoted below which had the same problem. Can anyone add to the advice given there?

Re: .32 Police Positive Disassembly Help

The Kuhnhausen book will step you through full disassembly.

To get things started, get some Kroil or another good penetrating fluid and apply a good drop or two to the assembly.

The cylinder retention on these older Colt's is a stud with a flanged screw.
The flanged screw acts as sort of a "jack screw" that lifts the stud when it's unscrewed.

The problem is, the flange is thin, and trying to force out a resistant stud can break the screw flange, leaving you with a mess that has to be precision drilled and extracted.

The Kroil will penetrate and help loosen any rust or gummed-up old lube that might be causing the stud to stick.
READ THE MANUAL, before attempting disassembly of the screw and stud.

[Darne]

Have you tried heat? Applying heat with a propane torch has helped me in the past. Use common sense. You don't want to get it too hot, around 350 to 400* F. Kroil it while it's hot. Kroil the crane while your at it.

Try turning the lock screw out as far as it will go, then tighten as tight as you can get it. Then tap the lock into the frame. If you can get even the tiniest bit of movement the Kroil will work.

Good luck,

Dan

[A1A]

FWIW I like the warming and tapping. They seem like the least invasive next steps with promise.

[dfariswheel]

Also, along with the heat (MILD) and Kroil give the frame around the stud a couple of good raps with the butt of a plastic screwdriver to add vibration that hopefully break the stud loose.
Also, if you can turn the locking screw IN a little, give the stud itself a rap with a brass punch. This might break it loose, but don't over do it, you don't want to drive it in and get it stuck tighter.

If worse comes to worse and it won't come out one technique is to drill and tap the stud. Install as large a screw as you can, using Loctite to help it hold, then use the screw as a puller aid while you attempt to unscrew the stud locking screw.
Remember, put too much torque on the stud locking screw and the thin metal skirt on the screw will distort and/or break.

[adowns]

Thanks for the suggestions. I never would have thought of drilling and tapping the stud. I'll work on it some more during Christmas vacation. Right now I'm frustrated with it.