They very well could be staked in.Use a punch to push the staked section of the bushing in then unscrew it.
I recently attempted to remove the grip screw bushings from a Colt Defender, in an attempt to install thin grips. The bushings would not break free. In looking at the bushings, it appears they may be staked in place but I'm uncertain. A bit of heat would likely release them if they are loc-tited in place but, can anyone tell me if they are staked and, if so, an effective method to remove them? Thanks in advance all.
They very well could be staked in.Use a punch to push the staked section of the bushing in then unscrew it.
This gets real touchy.
When dealing with bushings in aluminum frames there's always a risk of stripping the frame holes.
I don't know what Colt is doing with bushings currently, but in my day they were all staked.
Unless you see traces of a Loctite compound around the bushings, I'd suspect they still stake them.
If it is a Loctite compound, heat of around 300 degrees or so should degrade it enough to get the bushings out.
Note that 300 degrees is NOT THAT HOT. Don't over heat.
A good technique to apply heat in this case is to use a soldering iron touched to the bushing to transfer the heat.
After heating, immediately use a driver to unscrew the bushing before it cools.
Remember, NOT TOO HOT. That means no torches or heat guns.
I'd suspect the bushings in Colt's are still staked so here's a technique to get them out, hopefully without stripping the frame holes.
First, get a good penetrating fluid like Kroil and apply a drop around each bushing where it enters the frame.
Let soak at least 24 hours.
Second, buy a bushing driver from Brownell's. This supports the bushing and helps prevent damaging it or the frame.
DO NOT try removing bushings with a screwdriver. That not only tears up the busing, it can cause the bushing to strip the frame hole.
MAGNA-TIP® 1911 AUTO BUSHING DRIVER™ BITS - Brownells
With the driver and after soaking with Kroil, very slightly loosen the bushing.
Back the bushing out just a very slight amount, then tighten back slightly. Continue to loosen the bushing slightly then turn it back slightly, each time loosing it a little farther.
This loosening back and forth "irons out" the staking and usually allows getting the bushing out without damaging anything.
Even when the bushing seems to be coming out, at the first sign that it's binding, stop and turn it back in slightly.
Keep some Kroil on the threads as you're working it out to lubricate.
Thanks for the excellent information. When I have a bit more time this weekend, I'll attempt the technique you suggest. This will allow me to let the kroil penetrate for at least 24-48 hours!!!