Is this nickel or chrome?

[TomP]

Awhile back I replaced the barrel on my 44-40 New Service with a plated barrel. My intention was to eventually strip the plating and reblue the revolver since it's a shooter, not a collectible. But I'm not sure whether the barrel is nickel or chrome plated. Can someone tell me by looking at these pictures?





The last picture shows the revolver with some flat black spray paint on top of the barrel which I put there when regulating the front sight for windage.

[Kid Sopris]

I am not a Metallurgist, however if I have to guess based on the picture, with the evidence appearing that there is some copper showing at the base of the barrel, I am going to say Nickel.

[Oyeboten]

Period Colt Nickel would not have a Copper underlay...though I agree with Kid Sopris, that it does look like some hints of Copper underneath, there on the Threaded area...so, kinda odd.


Anyway, I hope you know, .44-40 and .44 Russian/.44 Special are not quite identical in Bore diameters usually, so, putting a .44 Russian/Special Barrel on to a .44-40 Revolver, might or might not be ideal...or, you'd have to Slug the Bore and relate that to the Cylinder Bores to find out.

[TomP]

I think those spots on the threads were a bit of red rust coming through. There was also a small area near the front sight where the plating had come off. Does nickel flake off like chrome will? Chrome is harder than nickel, right? Just trying to figure out what it is for sure before I buy what I need to strip it off.

Oyeboten, I slugged the barrel when I first got it. It turned out the groove diameter on this barrel was ideal for the 44-40 bullet. I've shot the gun quite a bit and it seems to be quite accurate, typically 1.5" 3 shot groups at 20 yards. Of course that's off a rest, and on a good day, and when nobody's there to see me do it.

[Oyeboten]

I think those spots on the threads were a bit of red rust coming through. There was also a small area near the front sight where the plating had come off.

What does that area look like?

Does nickel flake off like chrome will?

All depends on vagueries of whoever does the Plating, and, of their chemicals and prep and how thick they put it on, and whatever else...

Chrome is harder than nickel, right?

I believe so, yes...

Just trying to figure out what it is for sure before I buy what I need to strip it off.

Just hard to say from here, which it is.


If it is Nickle, it has been buffed sometime relatively recently, or, was put away Oiled or something, since it appears NOS or pretty fresh...or else it is a refinish which was done with no Buffing prelims to an already minty Barrel which had been Blue.

Oyeboten, I slugged the barrel when I first got it. It turned out the groove diameter on this barrel was ideal for the 44-40 bullet.

Oh good...worked out very well then!

I've shot the gun quite a bit and it seems to be quite accurate, typically 1.5" 3 shot groups at 20 yards. Of course that's off a rest, and on a good day, and when nobody's there to see me do it.

You should post something in the .44-40 Thread I started in the Revolver Section.


Sounds like a Tack Driver you have there!

[dfariswheel]

It's almost impossible to determine whether a part is chrome or nickle by looking at a picture.

Nickel will crack, chip, and flake off just like chrome.

One way to ID nickel is to compare it to something known to be chrome or stainless steel. Nickle has a slight yellowish tint to the metal, while chrome is has a slight bluish tint. Stainless steel has a "white" tint.
This is usually obvious when compared to each other.
Nickle has that slight yellow or golden tint.

[TomP]

Based on all I've heard, I'm pretty sure it's nickel. The gentleman who sold me the barrel said it was nickel but after looking at pics of chrome plated guns I had begun to wonder. In person the finish does seem to have a yellowish rather than bluish tint.

So, do chemical strippers like the stuff available through Brownells do a good job without hurting the parent steel? Or should I send it to someone to be stripped using electrolysis?

[dfariswheel]

Of course the best method is to send it to a good gun plater service and have it stripped. They could also apply whatever finish you want after stripping.

The Brownell's chemical strip reportedly works well, but it takes time and you have to be absolutely certain of getting 100% of the plating off, or any other finish is going to make trouble.
The Brownell's two part stripper costs $60.
APW/Cogan will strip an entire gun for $40, a barrel for probably much less.

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