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how to polish stainless steel

12K views 66 replies 26 participants last post by  guns54 
#1 ·
what would be the best way to polish my .44 anaconda?
 
#3 ·
Is that to bring it to a Brite stainless finish? What would you use to just remove a blemish on the stock finish??
 
#4 ·
A courser steel wool. 0000 will kinda polish it and make it shiny. Start with the courser Wool first and work your way up to a finer if necessary until it blends. You may find the course stuff works well enough.
 
#6 ·
Polishing stainless steel to a bright mirror finish isn't easy. You need to use successive grit sandpaper in small incriments all the way up to 2000. You only move up a step when you have successfuly removed all of the lines from the prior grit. It should be pretty shiney and even by 2000 - then you are ready for a final polish using some ultra-fine buffing cream.

I did this to a slide on a .45 AMT Backup and had really good results. However, the deeper the initial scratches, the coarser you will have to start. Although I have no problem doing this on the slide flats of a .45 AMT Backup, I wouldn't even attempt it on a Python or Anaconda.

I sent my "Ultimate" bright stainless steel Colt Trophy Gold Cup back to Colt to have it properly finished. Colt did a nice job on it.
 
#7 ·
Great! Thanks everyone for the tips. I didn't mean to take over the thread, but all the info is what the OP asked about! I hope this helps him also.
 
#9 ·
The collector value of Anacondas is increasing rapidly, so doing anything to alter the original configuration of an Anaconda will reduce its value. If you want a "Bright" Anaconda, perhaps you should sell yours and buy an original Bright Anaconda.

For blending blemishes on the brushed original finish, use a worn fine ScotchBrite pad, NOT steel wool.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I used Mothers Mag Polish on this S&W Model 60-9. Hand polished it with a terri-cloth hand towel. Took a couple of hours while watching TV. It's pretty quick ~ doesn't damage lettering or round edges like a buffer. I think it give stainless a nicer finish than factory nickel. The more you polish ~ the more shine you get.

I also did a high polish on a Model 649 that I bought used. It had some honest carry marks. I used 600, 800, and 1000 grit sand paper to remove the existing dings and scratches, then I went to the Mothers Mag Polish for the final finish.
 

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#11 ·
Lol, Yeah, please don't use steel wool, almost forgot that you will produce the beautiful net results you see on the hundreds of hundguns I sell on Gunbroker in 2-3 minutes and I then will have competition, please, listen to the Experts.
 
#13 ·
Auto body shop supply houses sell scuff pads. Usually come in 3-4 grades of coarseness denoted by color and they are pretty cheap, similar to a Scotchbrite pad. I cut the size I need and use Fltz or semichrome. I don't like shiny ss so all I do is try and match the original finish on S&W revolvers. I don't own any ss Colts.
 
#16 ·
I am another fan of Mother's Mag Polish.I am a little less aggressive than some people and avoid the steel wool or scotchbrite pads.Use the polish using finger pressure only and gently apply,rub,remove with a clean soft cloth,and if necessary repeat.After you are done apply a light coat of Renaisance Wax and buff off.The results are quite good for me.
 
#17 ·
I bright-polished my pre-agreement Smith & Wesson model 60 with Mother's polish. It did a fine job. It didn't take as long as I thought it would. I ended up with a gun that looked as good as a bright-polished Python; unlike bright-polished Pythons, however, the finish showed marks even when I glanced hard at it. I had to keep polishing and polishing and polishing to keep it from showing the least little scuffs. I finally sent it to Magnaport for glass bead blasting, and haven't thought about the finish since. It shows a little holster wear, but a.) all carry guns do, and b.) that still beats having to polish it every little now and then.
 
#18 ·
The best way,,, Hmmm. Is there a best way ?

I have listed below several proven methods that will basically achieve the same end result. Get a vision in your mind of what the you really want ,,before you start. You know like how a basketball player sees the ball going into the hoop before he releases the ball. A careful hand, a steady eye and the right tools and you my friend will end up with a firearm that is truely unique and more important no longer worthy of ownership.

Flitz
Flitz Cloth
Mother Mag Polish
0000 steel wool
Dremel tool
Tooth paste
220 wet/dry 3M
Dewalt Side Grinder
Wire Brush
Claw Hammer
Tin Snips
Meat Cleaver
Battery Acid
Wet Basement/time

Flitz :bang_wall::bang_wall:
:bang_wall::bang_wall::bang_wall::bang_wall::bang_wall::bang_wall: :bang_wall::bang_wall::bang_wall::bang_wall:


John
 
#19 ·
For some reason the hair on the back of my neck goes up when I hear "take sandpaper to your gun". Granted, I don't polish my S&W 66 stainless. Back some months ago brass or bronze wool was thrown around as a better agent than steel wool. I dunno. If the Anaconda is in that much distress from scratches or blemishes I'd invest in a Colt factory refinish job rather than muck it up on my own. My caveat: I buy, shoot, clean and repeat as required. :p
 
#20 · (Edited)
I never use ordinary carbon steel wool on stainless guns. I stick with bronze or copper and also have stainless steel wool for the really stubborn crud removal. Folks smarter than me have warned that minute particles of the hard carbon steel wool can and do become imbedded in the stainless steel surface and eventually rust, which "freckle" the stainless gun and can be the beginnings of worse corrosion and pitting of the stainless steel. Don't ever think a stainless steel gun cannot rust...the stainless steel used in guns is a higher carbon stainless that gives a much higher corrosion resistance and is still reasonably easy to machine without eating up tool bits, but it absolutely can and will rust and pit. Just like ordinary blued carbon steel...it just takes longer and/or harsher conditions. I have seen and owned several pitted stainless steel guns over the years. I'm sure the people who use steel wool for a quick sale cosmetic touch up love it, but who wants to risk using it on a gun you plan to keep in your safe for a few decades?
 
#23 ·
i just want to preserve it.
You will NOT be preserving the gun by polishing it. You will be altering it. The gun does not need polishing to "preserve" it. Just wipe it down with you preferred surface treatment and forget it. While stainless will rust if exposed to the right oxidants, it will not do so under ordinary storage conditions so nothing special is really needed to "preserve" it.
 
#24 · (Edited)
I used ONLY elbow grease and Mothers Mag polish on my old Anaconda and Python. I wouldn't use any power tools or steel wool on your gun. It takes awhile but well worth the effort when you take your time. I did mine while watching a couple football games. I just used some old t-shirts or sweat socks. Find a clean spot on the rag, SPARINGLY apply the Mothers, and rub repeatedly until it comes off all black on the rag. Find another clean spot on the rag, and just keep rubbing until it looks the way you like it. Work in small areas and keep moving when the area you are working looks good to you. Mine looks just like a factory Bright Stainless finish. You might need to find a popcsicle stick or pencil to get into tight areas, but just take your time and it will look awesome. When you are done I also added a couple coats of Reanaissance wax to protect it, and keep fingerprints to a minimum. It makes clean up after shooting much easier too.

Here are a couple pics of my Python.


 
#26 ·
Some people make like to polish their stainless guns. If they like it and not looking to sell it, then what's the harm? Lots of things are altered but doesn't always mean it lessens the value. It's only stainless and can always be brought back to it's original sheen with the proper scuff pads and a little time and paitence. I'm not saying refinishing a firearm is the way to go but if someone wants to keep a gun and wants it to look nice then go for it.

The whole gun world is not just catered to the collector market just as the vintage car world isn't just catered to trailer queens. Some like to drive their vintage cars, shoot their guns and use them for enjoyment as well as wanting them to look the way they like it. They may not be doing it to please the collectors or care what a collector says. Guns and this forum isn't just about the collectors market. If changing a finish or refinishing a gun was that bad, there wouldn't be Ford's refinishing and all these great gun restorer's or for the fact Colt who can't keep up with refinish orders as it is.

Here is a 4" stainless Anaconda without box that was polished after the fact (not factory) and don't think the value was hurt by doing it. I think it looks nice polished. It has a nice sheen to it even though it's not mirror bright like Colt's factory ultimate polish. I don't care that it was polished aftermarket and I think it looks nice none-the-less and I wouldn't mind having it myself. I don't care if Fugate or whoever doesn't like it and won't buy it to re-sell it because it's been polished. I like it and that's what matters. Regards

Colt 4" Bright Stainless Anaconda 44 Magnum Rare! : Revolvers at GunBroker.com
 
#31 ·
The whole gun world is not just catered to the collector market just as the vintage car world isn't just catered to trailer queens. Some like to drive their vintage cars, shoot their guns and use them for enjoyment as well as wanting them to look the way they like it. They may not be doing it to please the collectors or care what a collector says. Guns and this forum isn't just about the collectors market. If changing a finish or refinishing a gun was that bad, there wouldn't be Ford's refinishing and all these great gun restorer's or for the fact Colt who can't keep up with refinish orders as it is.
I've met and talked with many collectors, some who write for a gun periodical or 3, who are not "above" me nor use condescending diatribes to further their agenda. We all treat our "collectibles" as we want because they are OUR property. My stuff will undoubtedly be passed on to my children or grandchildren and I'll do my best to keep it in good working order. Cosmetically I'll refrain from taking a belt sander to something but if a coat of Ren wax works to preserve what is there, wonderful. If I want to send my Python to Colt, my choice.


I don't care if Fugate or whoever doesn't like it and won't buy it to re-sell it because it's been polished. I like it and that's what matters. Regards
Yeppers :) Every "no longer manufactured" firearm I own will fetch more than I paid for it to somebody unless I blow it up or some catastrophy renders it useless. At the end of the day I still pick who my friends are, who I'll do business with and how I clean and maintain MY STUFF. I will never have a pristine boxed collection of firearms (might have a couple) but the few I own show honest use, I've enjoyed the heck out of them and at the end of the day the guy that generalizes me into a catagory as "an accumulator" doesn't mean squat to me. I've a great respect for the members who assist folks on this forum (you know who they are) even when the question has been posed before because they truly GIVE something to this forum.
 
#28 ·
I've polished more than one of my SS guns, both by hand and machine. I like the look. I did it for me, not the next guy.
Wow, and you were not summoned Straight to Hell?
 
#33 ·
I do not think this argument hinges on semantics. Yes, ordinary wear does "alter" the original finish, but the discussion here is not about ordinary wear that occurs unintentionally during ordinary use. The discussion here is about intentionally altering the original finish to make it look different. I think that is a bad idea, but of course each person can do as desired, to include destroying the gun if desired.

The discussion here is not about the right to do as one pleases to one's gun, the discussion is about the affect on market value, now and in the future. (Most major maker guns become collectible as time pases.) At this point, it seems extremely unlikely that any more Anacondas will ever be produced, so it seems unwise to alter one in a way that reduces its value. Sure, "owner" polished stainless guns can be repolished to attempt to return the finish to the original texture, and, if skillfully done, may be nearly undetectable. Or not.

Your gun, your choice.
 
#34 ·
Believe me, I'm not one for destroying a guns finish either but can't bring myself to believe that polisning a stainless gun is destroying it. The Anaconda hasn't been made for several years now and the one on auction just sold for $1400 which is somewhat higher than a factory non polished Anaconda without a box. I've seen NIB Anaconda's fetch less than that. I find it hard to believe that 10-20 years down the road it will bring less money than any other standard 4" Anaconda without a box.
 
#35 ·
I did not say that polishing a stainless gun is "destroying" the gun. Several of the preceding comments strongly suggested that an owner can do as he or she pleases with a gun, and I was just going one ridiculous step further by saying that right extends even to destroying a gun. Polishing a stainless gun obviously does not destroy it, but it certainly negatively affects its value.
 
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