lewis lead remover

[capstan]

I have heard about this dvice and figure I'll pick one up someday. But isn't it mainly for removing lead that has built up wround the forcing cone?? Is it also used to clean lead from the entire barrel? I wouldn't think it would work much for getting lead out from the grooves of the rifling as the lands would probably prevent it from getting any deeper. The lead buildup I experienced recently is along the grooves next to the lands in the rifling and even the brass brush cant get it all out (although most of it).
What is ypur experience with the Lewis remover as far as lead in the rifling goes..

[randyhamrick]

Lewis Lead Removers do a good job of cleaning those stubborn lead deposits out of the rifling of a barrel. (Geez, I'm sorry that sounds like a TV commercial.) I used them religiously back in the years when we were shooting a lot of soft lead wadcutters.

[capstan]

Lewis Lead Removers do a good job of cleaning those stubborn lead deposits out of the rifling of a barrel. (Geez, I'm sorry that sounds like a TV commercial.) I used them religiously back in the years when we were shooting a lot of soft lead wadcutters.

Thanks Randy That does it, I'm getting the Lewis remover now!

[Vulcan Bob]

Plus one for the Lewis lead remover. Been useing it for over thirtyfive years now and would not be without one. They also can be used to clean the carbon/lead deposits in your cylinders. I also use it to clean rifle barrels such as my .45 Colt Uberti Winchester clone, I just use a rifle length cleaning rod and attach the Lewis lead remover plug to it.

[broknaxl]

I agree, I had a Python that leaded up real bad some years ago. The Lewis lead remover saved the day. Well worth the investment.

[Ken S]

Yup, I agree too. I bought one a month ago, and use it every clean up.
works great. Even on the forcing cone of my SAA.
A Trick...I also went to the hardware store and bought some bronze wool. Like steel wool, but bronze. $3. I put some on on old brush, and put the brush in a drill. I run drill on slow, and run the bronze through the cylinder's as part of the cleaning. two seconds, and each cylinder of my SAA is clean and shiny. takes out any lead in the cylinder.
bronze does not hurt the metal, just cleans it out.
I also run some , again on an old brush, through the bore. EZ clean up. final pass with Hoppes, and I'm done.

[capstan]

KEN S THANKS for the great tip on thebronze pad and drill. I ordered the lewis remover yesterday. But i think Ill pick up some bronze wool also.

[Chuck Would]

I use the Lewis tool as well but I also use Copper mesh on an old spiral brush. I used to get the copper mesh from work and it is available from McMaster Carr. When the plant closed I had a box in my office and the boss told me I could have anything in the office so, it came home with me. Close replacement is a Chore Boy Scrub pad available from your local supermarket.

[Bill Weddle]

I have a Lewis Lead remover it's a great tool for removing lead from the cone or rifling, BUT. I would rather find and cure the problem of the leading if possible. I have found in my long but still limited experience it will be caused by the forcing cone, cylinder mouths that don't match the rifling/groove diameter, bullet fitting the individual guns dimensions, or a combination of these things. There is not much you can do to a rough pitted bore. Fire lapping can greatly improve or eliminate rough machining. Jacketed bullets just cover up the problem. At velocities below 1200 fps if they won't shoot wheel weight lead bullets properly cast, sized, & lubed for the gun there is something generally wrong.

[PonyLover]

Bill,
I've found that my leading increased when I began shooting bevel-based bullets in my Colts. I used to cast all my bullets, but when I went to a progressive reloader, I had to use the BB bullets. Just the price you have to pay for speed reloading.