Quite a gift
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  1. #31
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    That's a nice original gun. New hand spring and other springs you can get from Lodgewood guns or S&S. Any screws same places. Have fun.

  2. #32
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    I'm not the greatest at getting decent pics of a bore, but here they are:
    001.JPG002.JPG003.JPG004.JPG

    And the chambers:
    1860 cylinder.jpg

  3. #33
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    Looks okay to me. The dent in one of the chambers has to be carefully tapped back into shape though

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  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 45collector View Post
    Attachment 623091Attachment 623093
    That's all the pics I took today. Forgot to take a pic of the bore but it's about what you'd expect.

    So looking at all these pics, is there anyone that would still clean this sucker up and fire it?
    Yep, I'd shoot it, the 20 gr. load is exactly what I'd use. I would seal the front of the cylinder to make sure you don't get a chain fire, I use Crisco or lard. Also keep an empty chamber under that hammer till you're ready to shoot. That's a great old horse pistol you got there, you can be very proud.
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  6. #35
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    I believe that I can see a faint 5 on the butt under the screw hole. And 5 is part of the other serial numbers. Even if the numbers are worn away, there is enough other evidence to prove that it is a justified original.
    45collector likes this.

  7. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by highway08 View Post
    Yep, I'd shoot it, the 20 gr. load is exactly what I'd use. I would seal the front of the cylinder to make sure you don't get a chain fire, I use Crisco or lard. Also keep an empty chamber under that hammer till you're ready to shoot. That's a great old horse pistol you got there, you can be very proud.
    I have never loaded a percussion revolver but I do remember that you need to seal off the end of each chamber before firing. What about some kind of wax?

    Quote Originally Posted by Swag01 View Post
    I believe that I can see a faint 5 on the butt under the screw hole. And 5 is part of the other serial numbers. Even if the numbers are worn away, there is enough other evidence to prove that it is a justified original.
    That's exactly what I thought I could make out as well, a "5".

  8. #37
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    Beeswax melted with a little Crisco, then cooled back to a "solid" and cut oversized wads to go on top of the balls works good too. The subject of chain fire is quite controversial but the main thing is if you've ever had one don't want another. Using "soft" or "pure" lead balls that are significant over sized, like .457" balls, should be enough but I like the extra insurance and the lube. Properly fitting caps are important too. You'll want to study the whole thing out for yourself. It's messy and fun, I see a good reproduction Army in your future, lol.

  9. #38
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    Update: I ordered some new nipples and a cylinder hand/spring from Numrich to get this old gun going again. I'm taking 29aholic up on his offer to lend me the tool to replace the nipples (thanks!)

    So here's a few questions... Can I just order some of those pre-lubed .44/ .45 wool pads to use as insurance against chain fires? The melting down crysco/beeswax things sounds messy and time-consuming. From what I can find, I would drop the powder in each chamber first, then push a wool pad down on top of that, then the lead ball?
    And is there a good place to get .44 lead ball in bulk? I will not be shooting this gun enough to warrant casting my own projectiles.

  10. #39
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    .44 balls (.457) are available at any muzzleloader shop. Lubed wads, one can choose to use 'em or not. They don't hurt anything, but they add up to the cost per shot.
    Last edited by Prowbar; 06-18-2019 at 01:37 PM.

  11. #40
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    I use Wonder Lube. It is made for BP. I used to use Crisco, but after the gun starts heating up the Crisco gets too runny.

    I would start with .457 ball in case the chambers are a little loose
    Prowbar and 45collector like this.
    Amat Victoria Curam


 
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