Quite a gift
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  1. #71
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    Well it's been over a month since I asked my local shop guy to order all the stuff I need. He never got back to me and didn't respond to my text last week so I went to Track of the Wolf and ordered 100 each of .451 balls, lubed wads and "wonder lube". I took my digital caliper to each chamber and they are all right around .450 to .451. The local shop carries percussion caps so I'll just grab those, and a friend has a bunch of FFFG black powder so he's going to sell me a pound. I plan on using the powder flask 29aholic graciously donated, and cutting the spout down to 20 grains capacity. I have that bag of cap keepers so I hope that even if #10 caps aren't perfectly tight on this old gun, at least those should keep the caps on tight and not fall off during firing.

    Once I finally get all the stuff I need to fire it, I think I'll do so on the 157th anniversary of the Battle of Antietam. Sept 17th.
    usgi1911A1 and duckhunter like this.

  2. #72
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    I hope the balls fit properly. If the caps are too small just squeeze them slightly oval. I wish you the best of luck!
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  3. #73
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    You need to bigger in diameter on the balls...at least .454 if not .457. Otherwise, they wont swage/seal properly in the chambers.
    Curtis M Brier, CPA, CIA, CFE

    Amat Victoria Curam

    Never buy a gun you'll have to make excuses for later

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  5. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29aholic View Post
    You need to bigger in diameter on the balls...at least .454 if not .457. Otherwise, they wont swage/seal properly in the chambers.

    And you will risk a 'Flash over' where some or all chambers detonate at the same time. That could destroy your gun. To be safe you should see a light shaving of lead when you seat the balls.
    Last edited by stanforth; 08-13-2019 at 12:59 PM.

  6. #75
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    I sent them a message to ask if they can switch the balls to .454 instead of .451. Good enough hopefully?

    Reading a little further into getting the gun operating, I am wondering about which caps to buy, and how heavy the hammer spring should be. It seems the hammer spring on any percussion revolver should be significantly heavier than on a SAA/clones. I'm just learning this now. It makes sense when thinking about keeping the caps on the nipples, and working against back pressure on the hammer. When I first acquired the gun I noticed the hammer spring screw was backed out slightly, making the hammer spring weight about as heavy as my modified Uberti Cattleman which has a nice light trigger pull. I'm thinking I should remove the grip on the Colt and drive that hammer spring screw all the way home? If it still seems somewhat light of a hammer stroke, should I just replace the spring? Would it be any help if I could attach a photo of the clearance between the nipples and the hammer face when the hammer is at rest? When it comes to the caps, I supposed I should stay away from CCI's, correct? I'm not sure what the local shop carries, but from what I'm reading I should be looking for Remington #10's.

    As always, any further advice is certainly welcome and appreciated.
    Last edited by 45collector; 08-13-2019 at 07:04 AM.
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  7. #76
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    Any cap you can buy is fine, either CCI or Remington or others. Your gun probably has nipples that were made for no. 9 caps which are not produced anymore. If you can get no. 10 caps that is the best as they are the smallest in size (or have a longer skirt). Any cap will work however, just give them a slight squeeze and they stay on. Turn the hammer screw all the way in, see how it handles. Best way to check hammer tension is to test fire a run of caps, without a load. See if the hammer detonates them reliably. The spring needs to be somewhat heavier than a cartridge gun.

    No need to replace the spring, Colt mainsprings carry enough tension (often excessively heavy)

    Another tip: before you load and fire the gun, make sure to wipe out all excessive oil from the chambers and barrel.
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  8. #77
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    I think those little rubber cap keepers I bought should help keep the caps on the nipples. We'll see.
    Yes the bore and chambers are dry as a bone right now. I have a little bit of grease on the arbor, and the internals are lightly oiled. That's it.
    I do plan on running a cap only through each chamber before loading. But the flash holes are all clean and dry so do I really even need to do that step?

  9. #78
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    If the chambers are dry there is no need to fire off caps.

    For the record those cap keepers can be made from surgical tubing
    45collector and usgi1911A1 like this.
    Curtis M Brier, CPA, CIA, CFE

    Amat Victoria Curam

    Never buy a gun you'll have to make excuses for later

  10. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by 29aholic View Post
    For the record those cap keepers can be made from surgical tubing
    I know I saw that as soon as I opened the package. "Oh jeez I could have made these myself!"
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  11. #80
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    I couldn’t wait.
    10 rounds at about 12 yards. I thought you had to aim way low with these at close distance but I guess not. First round I aimed at the bottom. 2nd round was too high. 3rd round was again a bit low and then I settled in on the last few. It’s an old used IDPA target.
    The .451 balls barely shaved a ring at all. Microscopic. But I used wads, lube, and those cap keepers on all 10 rounds so that is apparently enough insurance against chain fires.
    Dammit now I’m hooked.
    B8094DD8-8C95-4461-8F04-57F8293FFAAD_1566866871053.jpeg

    I used the flask that 29aholic graciously donated and the spout throws about 12 grains. I used two per chamber. I had done some reading on the difference between volume and weight of measurement regarding loose black Powder and came to the conclusion it is perfectly safe to use 24 grains weight of 3f Goex in this old girl. Recoil was very mild, but it still put out a nice cloud and a few random sparks.
    Last edited by 45collector; 08-26-2019 at 06:55 PM.


 
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