Rust beginning on a pistol
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Thread: Rust beginning on a pistol

  1. #31
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    On small rust/oxidation freckles, I have had luck with rag soaking with a good oil.
    Then wipe in one direction with rag patch. Always using a clean one with every swipe.
    Normally I can see the red on the rag.
    I then apply a swipe of light oil patch and cover it with a good gun grease.
    Stored in breathable silicone gun sock, the grease layer keeps the oil on the freckle. With time, repeat and for the most part the freckle disappears or is substantially defeated.
    All the tips are spot on.
    Good reference thread.
    Had to to that on the bottom of my Python grip frame.
    Dang rubber grips!
    Just put woodies on it! The treated surface does not touch the wood.
    Colt
    NRA LIFE Member

  2. #32
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    Thank you very much! I will look for this type of thermostat. I must protect my firearms. I have too much money invested in them, and I like them looking pretty.
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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by victorio1sw View Post
    I am going to give you some advice about preventing rust. There are some air conditioning "experts" who won't understand or like this! If you live in a place where both heating and cooling are required during the seasons of the year, then buy auto-switchover thermostats. The ones I have bought are set to come on with cool air above 74F, and come on with heat below 71F. This prevents "dew" from accumulating on your gun steel during those wild swings in outside temperature.

    DO NOT BUY an auto-switchover thermostat for "programming". Some think that it is most desirable to allow your home to heat up or cool down while you are at work. This is a gun's worst enemy, and it will also run up your power bill. It runs up your power bill because everything within the outer walls are heating up (or cooling down). So when the cool air is allowed to resume, it has to cool down all of that mass (brick, walls, flooring, ceilings, furniture, books, etc).

    Actually when I installed my auto-switchover thermostats my power usage dropped about 10%. That is what air conditioning companies DO NOT want to hear! They want to sell programmable thermostats.
    Victorio,

    It is obvious that you don't understand the physics of air temp and the water-holding capacities of air. I don't know that I am an "expert" in the field of HVAC (heat/vent/AC) but I made a good living at it for 35 years (now retired), mostly working at various (3) hospitals, and have never been a commercial "air-conditioning" contractor, nor have I ever worked for one, so I don't have a dog in this commercial fight. Your auto-switch T-stat does absolutely nothing insofar as humidity control, which is the key point here, even though it may have saved you some money insofar as power usage. That is just an economic thing and has nothing to do with the OP's problem. The warmer air becomes it is able to hold more water (that's why it is called "relative" humidity) than cooler air. If a certain mass/volume of air is cooled to the saturation point it becomes rain/dew/frost/hail/snow. The same will happen indoors as condensation. If you have a cooling unit (central refrigeration A/C or even a window unit) you will notice the condensate dripping off of the evaporator (cooling coil) because the air temp has gone below the saturation point at discharge. Normal discharge air temps are about 55* and if the outside air temp is 70+* condensate will definitely occur unless you live in a continually very dry climate, and then it should be of little concern.

    I think if the OP has any metal stored in the house it might be wise to get a dehumidifier for that area. I would also suggest procuring a few bags of silica gel dessicant to place very near whatever you want to protect. Silica gel is easily dehydrated in a warm stove oven or a microwave oven for future use.

    Regards,

    Jim
    Last edited by sourdough; 06-12-2019 at 12:29 PM.
    rocknroad likes this.

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  5. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by ColtPlinkerton View Post
    Do not use steel wool. Even the fine steel wool will scratch and remove finish along with the rust. You want this:

    Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner | Remove Rust from Gun Bluing and Clean Dirty Gun Bores Easy!

    Alternatively you can use the edge of a pure copper penny to remove individual rust spots.
    There is no such thing as a US "pure" small copper cent ("pennies" were an English UK thing: think pence) from the Flying Eagle, to the Indian, to the Lincoln Wheat reverse, to the Lincoln Memorial reverse. The last mostly copper cents were produced by the US Mint in 1982 and mid-year the Mint started using zinc as a base metal for the cents. The metal contained mostly copper plated zinc from then to the present day. The reason for the change to zinc was that one could melt down "copper" cents and it would be worth more than it cost to produce them due to the cost of copper as scrap.

    There is no metallurgical reason why copper would remove rust.

    Regards,

    Jim

  6. #35
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    I have removed as much as I can with the rust. So I wiped it down, and applied Renaissance Wax. This should do the trick. Thank you all for your suggestions. That special scrubber with coconut oil is a nice combination.
    I am a novice collector of Colt firearms. Recently, I have been focusing on antique firearms. Here is a link to some of my "gems":
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  7. #36
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    I just noticed you'd started this thread as well as your other one on electrolysis methods for removing rust...

    I live less than a mile from the ocean, on Cape Cod MA. Rust is a serious issue here, for anything metal. I run a dehumidifier in my basement during the summer, and also keep a generous coating of CLP on all my guns. I periodically peek into the safes with a flashlight too, to make sure no rust is starting. Usually about mid-summer I take each piece out and open the action/inspect the bore and internals, to make sure no rust is starting in the hidden areas. This is for the guns I don't shoot often, i.e. the milsurp stuff. This less-than scientific method has worked well for me for over 20 years living near the ocean.

    My competition guns get shot and wiped down so often, they don't get the chance to rust.
    Last edited by 45collector; 06-19-2019 at 07:35 AM.
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  8. #37
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    As an update, I used coconut oil on my Baby Dragoon, and rubbed the pistol with a soft rag. This did not work, so I used CLP as the oil. I had to be careful to not take off too much rust where the bluing would come off too. I finished it, and then used Renaissance Wax.

    I found that the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner, used with coconut oil, removed some bluing. I suspect the bluing on my pistol is actually a re-blued, which now would make sense. This type would come off much easier. So in this situation, I actually did not reduce the value of my 1849. It will retain the the same value as a re-blued version of the pistol.
    I am a novice collector of Colt firearms. Recently, I have been focusing on antique firearms. Here is a link to some of my "gems":
    To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

  9. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by r010159 View Post
    As an update, I used coconut oil on my Baby Dragoon, and rubbed the pistol with a soft rag. This did not work, so I used CLP as the oil. I had to be careful to not take off too much rust where the bluing would come off too. I finished it, and then used Renaissance Wax.

    I found that the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner, used with coconut oil, removed some bluing. I suspect the bluing on my pistol is actually a re-blued, which now would make sense. This type would come off much easier. So in this situation, I actually did not reduce the value of my 1849. It will retain the the same value as a re-blued version of the pistol.
    Could you post a picture of the Pocket? It might help up judge whether the finish is original or a reblue.


 
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