Official "Most useful posts" thread .
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Thread: Official "Most useful posts" thread .

  1. #31
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    Another useful Dfariswheel post describing some of the reasons the bolt is not dropping or functioning properly:

    (This response was to a member's cylinder not operating properly upon reassembly. The action was working properly when the sideplate was off but not when the sideplate was reinstalled.)

    Quote:
    The bolt is powered by the tiny spring, check to see if it's in place. The screw in the bolt should be tight, but not to the point where you risk breaking it.

    The bolt is activated by the rebound lever. Unless the pin at the rear that holds it in the frame is out of place, simply installing a new main spring shouldn't have affected bolt function.

    Make sure the front of the rebound is properly in place under the hand. Often during disassembly the hand slips outward and the rebound slips off the ledge in the slot on the back of the hand. The rebound and thus the bolt will not operate correctly.

    To check bolt function with the side plate off, put a finger on the hand to prevent it from slipping outward and out of place.
    With the side plate in place just look up inside the frame as you operate the hammer.

    In either case, the instant the hammer starts to move back the bolt should begin to drop.
    You can view the operation of the bolt "tail" as the tiny triangle surface pushes the tail upward, which caused the front of the bolt to drop into the frame.

    This should allow you see WHY the bolt isn't operating, which will likely be something out of place which is preventing the tail of the bolt to be engaged by the rebound.

    When the hammer is cocked far enough, the bolt tail will slip off the rebound with a clean "click".
    When the hammer is lowered again, the tail of the bolt should snap back onto the triangular surface on the rebound.
    If something is out of place or "whatever", the tail of the bolt will not snap back onto the rebound, and the action will operate without operating the bolt.
    Last edited by RDak; 04-23-2012 at 04:40 AM.

  2. #32
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    Very useful information - thanks!

  3. #33
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    This is an especially helpful post for newcomers like me... thank you!

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  5. #34
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    Since I am new to the Colt culture, having recently purchased a Metropolitan and asked questions about the Border Patrol [I now know they are variations of the Trooper MK III], I would like to know if there is a listing comparing the most popular models. E.g.,what are the differences between the various "snake" models? Are the frame sizes different? Are the materials different? Which are available only blued and which are available in nickel plate, and which also are made in stainless?

    I guess what I'm asking for is an expansion of A1A's post.
    Last edited by corgicolt; 03-30-2013 at 08:22 PM.

  6. #35
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    [QUOTE=RDak;226141]The follow-up answer is quoted below: (I couldn't get it all in on the above post because it exceeded the allowable characters in one post.) (The Dewey Parker Hale jags are good, they are a bit smaller and hold the proper sized patch, rather than sometimes having to go with a smaller sized patch for the caliber you are cleaning IMHO.)
    Last edited by sixgunshorty35717; 07-19-2013 at 12:38 PM.

  7. #36
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    ABBREVIATIONS AND ACRONYMS

    YOU MAY FIND ON THE FORUM

    https://www.coltforum.com/forums/loun...eviations.html



    Feel free to add or update as you wish.

  8. #37
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    Great informative sticky~ Thank you.

  9. #38
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    How about a separate section on specific models, etc. where our learned experts can post their notes, dissertations, etc. In other words a readily accessible index?
    Basil St. Clair of Azle, Texas
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    Not everybody is lucky enough to have been born in Texas. But you're okay so long as you get here as fast as you can.

  10. #39
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    Studied the Must Read for help awhile back. Thanks
    Still haven't found what I am looking for

  11. #40
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    Great info .....


 
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