I am wondering if the stains are really rust. (They may be old lubricant that has stained the nickel.) Satin nickel seems to absorb stains and I have removed some of them with Comet on a cloth. (The bleach component seems to help.) If the stains are stubborn, a soda blast, which is far less abrasive than a bead blast, may work.
That said, since the stains seem to be mostly under the stocks, it really would not hurt to just leave them.
Your gun looks to be in pretty good shape. As stated previously keep it away from copper solvent as copper is applied to the steel to make the nickel stick. Any compromise in the nickle and the solvent WILL desolve the copper and there goes the finish on your gun.
I have had great sucess cleaning satin nickle with tooth paste (regular old Colgate works well) and a stiff tooth brush, it will remove the "dirt" and not harm the nickle. Then a good warm water rinse and blow it out with compressed air (canned air works well if you don't have a compressor). Then give it a good CLP "bath", clean the inners and have fun with it!
Hey, how are you coming on your gun? I'm thinking about purchasing the same gun and was wondering how your progress is going. Any new pics? The one I'm looking at is pretty rough. Shop is asking $725 for it. Where you able to find any history on the gun ie. production numbers etc? Thanks.
Don't attempt to take the collet bushing off the barrel. There is no need to and it risks breaking one of the fingers. It definitely helps accuracy.
Nothing is fool proof to a truly talented fool.
isimanica, if you get that gun cleaned up, DO NOT put the rubber grips back on it. Those grips were made by Pachmayr, and they have a steel insert molded inside the rubber side panel. The edges of the metal insert are exposed on the inside of the grip panel and rub against the frame every time the gun is gripped. That's what has rubbed through the nickel finish on the frame.
I had a set of Pachs rub the anodizing off a Commander frame in exactly the same way.
The issue with Hoppe's #9 only arises if you soak the gun parts in the Hoppe's. The ammonia is the offending agent but takes a little time to get through the nickle and into the copper. As for toothpaste a better gun polish and abraisive is Flitz and a microfiber cloth. This will both remove the oxidized coat on the nickle and polish the nickle to its best satin appearance. Please note this is not a bright nickle piece so do not try to make it such. This finish was meant to be dull not shiney.
As for bead blasting I agree that this is a bit of an overkill. A little patience and gentle effort will be for safer and more effective.
Am I the only guy that ISN'T seeing Nickle on this gun?....................
Nickle doesn't rust, and I see that gun as already being totally Bead Blasted......................By that, I mean raw, in the white, carbon steel.
I dunno,the pics may be "iffy" to my eyes, but I've built enough 1911's to recognise a raw Bead Blasted finish, when I see it...........
I think someone Bead Blasted that gun to remove the Bluing (to make it look like stainless?), or to clean up some surface rust.............They also left some smaller parts blue for a pleasing contrast?
I don't think there's any nickle on that gun...Look at the Blast pattern on the rear of the LH rail and the Ejector...........The slide was on the frame when it was blasted to protect the rails.
That gun has been blasted to remove the original finish which was most likely Blue.
All those small dark stains in the cocking serations, on the hammer, on the frame, on the MS housing are all indicative of rust on carbon steel............
Nickle just doesn't rust like that!..........The only way Nickle can rust is if the nickle is compromised or lifted so contaminates can get to the base metal........
What does the inside of the slide and receiver look like?................Any large dark areas that would indicate residual leftover bluing?
If you degrease it, hit that surface with some cold blue, I bet it will "blue" the surface.........Nickle won't take cold blue.
Last edited by Tomray; 11-13-2012 at 08:51 AM.