I figured since I have acquired most of the parts I need, I could share some of my knowledge learned from these purchases without worrying about competition for what I am seeking.
When it comes to buying Colt parts, it is almost imperative that you get New Old Stock (NOS), or at the very least high condition used parts. With prices people are asking for critical components, it is good to know what you are looking at and what to look for. I don't cover everything, mainly just the stuff I have acquired, which is what one might commonly need with shooters that are used. Besides explaining how to evaluate parts, I will also share some things I learned about part compatibility and slight differences from eras. Plus show you how I keep them stored, and my 'smithing bin'.
Most of the stuff I see for sale is severely worn, trashed, and most likely unusable. You want to avoid those at all costs. Usually people who have true NOS parts, and know it, charge quite high prices. However, there are other people who are selling NOS parts and don't know it. That is where deals can be had, and you end up with quality parts for cheap.
I usually just browse the auction sites. I will buy single pieces or parts lots, but only when the price is right. Never pay over what you could get from a parts company cheaper. One of my biggest scores, with the most NOS parts, was bought as a lot for about $50. I made a couple hundred selling off what I didn't want and keeping the honey. All my other parts were bought for dollars and even cents on occasion. I understand most people won't even consider tinkering on a Colt, and therefore have no interest in buying parts. Those of you who do or have a desire, should find this info much help.
The parts I describe are mostly for newer models. The E,I,D frames with V spring action specifically, but also the 3rd gen SAA. I have no interest in the newer models with sintered/cast steel internals so can't help you there. Once you get pre-war, part design could be much different, only usable in those older models, and very hard to find with quality. One reason I don't pursue older Colts, as I like to have shooters and be able to fix any issue that comes up. Some of the post war parts vary in design too, as you will see, but should still work for the frame type with proper fitting.
The main thing to look for when examining parts is whether they have any wear. Those of us who tinker know where to look for this evidence. Others probably have no idea, so these pictures will show the areas to examine. A true NOS part should have NO wear and machining marks should still be present. A good quality used part will have very little wear and minimal fitting marks. If the areas are not clearly pictured in a sales ad, then ask for better pictures of the specific areas you need. If they don't comply, pass and look elsewhere, or take the risk at losing money. A return policy is great, in case the part doesn't meet the standards for usability.
Before beginning, if you like what you read, and feel it is very helpful, please find the 6 pointed star in the lower left of my posts and give me some positive reputation points. Just click the star, click the 'approve' circle to check it, leave a comment if you wish, and submit. I would greatly appreciate it.
Let's start with triggers!
Below are I and E frame triggers that are NOS. Any trigger that is used and already been fitted to a gun runs a great risk it won't work in YOUR gun, as the sear has already been altered. You won't know until you actually try it.
When it comes to buying Colt parts, it is almost imperative that you get New Old Stock (NOS), or at the very least high condition used parts. With prices people are asking for critical components, it is good to know what you are looking at and what to look for. I don't cover everything, mainly just the stuff I have acquired, which is what one might commonly need with shooters that are used. Besides explaining how to evaluate parts, I will also share some things I learned about part compatibility and slight differences from eras. Plus show you how I keep them stored, and my 'smithing bin'.
Most of the stuff I see for sale is severely worn, trashed, and most likely unusable. You want to avoid those at all costs. Usually people who have true NOS parts, and know it, charge quite high prices. However, there are other people who are selling NOS parts and don't know it. That is where deals can be had, and you end up with quality parts for cheap.
I usually just browse the auction sites. I will buy single pieces or parts lots, but only when the price is right. Never pay over what you could get from a parts company cheaper. One of my biggest scores, with the most NOS parts, was bought as a lot for about $50. I made a couple hundred selling off what I didn't want and keeping the honey. All my other parts were bought for dollars and even cents on occasion. I understand most people won't even consider tinkering on a Colt, and therefore have no interest in buying parts. Those of you who do or have a desire, should find this info much help.
The parts I describe are mostly for newer models. The E,I,D frames with V spring action specifically, but also the 3rd gen SAA. I have no interest in the newer models with sintered/cast steel internals so can't help you there. Once you get pre-war, part design could be much different, only usable in those older models, and very hard to find with quality. One reason I don't pursue older Colts, as I like to have shooters and be able to fix any issue that comes up. Some of the post war parts vary in design too, as you will see, but should still work for the frame type with proper fitting.
The main thing to look for when examining parts is whether they have any wear. Those of us who tinker know where to look for this evidence. Others probably have no idea, so these pictures will show the areas to examine. A true NOS part should have NO wear and machining marks should still be present. A good quality used part will have very little wear and minimal fitting marks. If the areas are not clearly pictured in a sales ad, then ask for better pictures of the specific areas you need. If they don't comply, pass and look elsewhere, or take the risk at losing money. A return policy is great, in case the part doesn't meet the standards for usability.
Before beginning, if you like what you read, and feel it is very helpful, please find the 6 pointed star in the lower left of my posts and give me some positive reputation points. Just click the star, click the 'approve' circle to check it, leave a comment if you wish, and submit. I would greatly appreciate it.
Let's start with triggers!
Below are I and E frame triggers that are NOS. Any trigger that is used and already been fitted to a gun runs a great risk it won't work in YOUR gun, as the sear has already been altered. You won't know until you actually try it.