Bisley restoration - Hand issue
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Thread: Bisley restoration - Hand issue

  1. #11
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    Can you post a picture of the 'new' hand?

    I would try rhmc24's method first. If that doesn't satisfy, proceed to MIG weld.

    MIG welding will do and is an easy repair. Before welding, try to gentle remove the handspring. If it breaks, you can make a new one, but getting the old (broken) one out is the tricky part.
    rhmc24 likes this.

  2. #12
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    Hi and thanks for your replies.

    I do not wish to put efforts in a temporary fix so thanks for the suggestion of 'glueing' a sheet on the hand. I want the Bisley to be as original as possible and for that the restoration has to be done in a state of the art way (meaning: as close to the original as possible, using the right techniques and the right materials). You wouldn't use a metal sheet and rivets to repair the hood of your Bentley either, would you? Remember rhmc24 writing himself that it would be a temporary fix (in case you want to keep shooting it). For welding, that would be (tmho) a reparation that would not alter the originality of the gun as it would be finished like an original one, especially after the carbonisation hardening process. But it involves more skills and a lot more time than the other process, I agree.

    Welding could be done with the spring attached if it doesn't go off easily. That is why hardening ovens were invented but if I can get it off, I would prefer that because it would make the carbonisation process easier. If the spring is on, I will have to cook the whole thing to its temperature in the hardening oven. Otherwise it is too difficult to get the hand and the spring both on the right temperature (without oven, the spring could melt). The thing is that in the oven case, the spring would probably get more carbon than it is supposed to get. With the spring off, I can glow the hand with a torch and put it into the carbon only with the tips.. Then cool it down slowly, repeat 2 or 3 times and then glow the whole hand, cool it down rappidly in oil and temper it in the oven.
    I would prefer pre-heating and using the MIG over the TIG as welding mild steel with the MIG goes fast and is easily to get in shape with a file and sand paper. TIG would be harder to do and probably would melt the original hand too far off to see what I am doing and what was the original shape. The minus on the MIG is that I will have to carbonise but that isn't so hard to do; it just takes a bit more time. Unfortunately I don't have a laser welder and going to a company to have it done, would economically be the wrong thing to do.

    But let's be honest: a new bought or self-made hand would be the better (and easiest) way. And I am verry happy with you guys thinking along and the information I get. Now I know that the Bisley hand is no different from the 1st generation hand. I know it from people who are certain and if they are wrong, they will be peered. Thanks for letting me on the forum.
    And I hope that I can help someone else with this post/thread.

    @Prowbar: I live in Belgium and work in Holland. If you need something to be done on the lathe or the mill or if you need some pieces to be hardened, just let me know, ok? As long as it is legal, I will be glad to help you out.

    Here's the hands. The squares are 5 millimeters.

    2 hands.JPG2 hands pic2.JPG2 hands pic3.JPG
    Last edited by Belge; 01-19-2018 at 01:27 PM.

  3. #13
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    Hello Belge, thanks for the offer. I do my own lathe and milling work hardening is something I'm not yet familiar with. I'll send you a PM if I ever need anything.

    I can confirm that the new hand you have is a 3rd generation Colt hand. 3rd gen Colts have a different ratchet design, therefore the hand is different.

    I'd say have a go @ a self made hand. This saved a ton of costs, you learn something, and is fun to do!

    I'm sure you thought about this (so have I ) but you could make the pivot pin with a square bar same thickness as the total hand thickness in a 4 jaw chuck (offset). Cut the rough shape of the bottom teeth with a dovetail cutter. The rest is probably file work after you milled off the excess. Just my 2 (Euro)cents.

    Good luck.
    Belge likes this.

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