How to fix Colt's black anodized aluminum frame's finish?
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Thread: How to fix Colt's black anodized aluminum frame's finish?

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    hwb
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    How to fix Colt's black anodized aluminum frame's finish?

    The black anodized finish has come off, what is a good way to repair? Birchwood Casey black pen? or

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    The black pen doesn't seem to work too well imo.
    I'm not sure if it would be worth getting re-anodized or not, after all its not like a Cobra or Agent where the barrel has to be, but shouldn't be removed.
    This is a situation where the Cerecoat or epoxy finishes might be of some use.
    Depending on how bad off the frame is stripping it might be an option, being careful not to obliterate the serial number.

    I have a new, well its been shot some, but a new XSE LWT Government and somehow there is one spot where the aluminum shows through, just a little spec or dot and nothing seems to work other then ignoring it.
    Ken
    "I like Colts and will die that way"

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    The various chemical aluminum blues or blacks will color the area, but it won't last longer then to handle it a bit.
    You can just wipe them off with a rub of your finger.

    Fixes are to use a top quality gun coat like Cerakote, or to send it out and have it re-anodized.

    >IF< applied to Cerakote company standards Cerakote is the best of the "paint" type coatings and are more durable then bluing or parkerizing on steel parts. However Cerakote WILL wear like any gun finish and refinishing requires bead blasting to remove the old Cerakote.

    Anodizing is more durable, but again, like any gun finish it will wear, especially on edges and corners, and can be damaged by accident.

    A lesser "fix" would be to use a tough paint that's as near a match as possible and use an artist's brush to patch the damage.
    The tricks to this are thoroughly mixing the paint, doing a good job of degreasing the metal, and giving it plenty of dry and cure time.

    One of the aluminum paints sold by Brownell's would be about as good as can be had short of Cerakote.
    The ideal would be an epoxy gun paint that is air curing. These harden in a day or so but don't reach full hardness for several weeks.
    The oven baking types are even faster.

    Unless you intend to go to a major effort to do a full refinish coat, the small area patch method would be far less effort.
    For that matter, if the damage is not over too large an area, you could do a patch using a good metal paint like common Rust-oleum.

    Using the small cans of Rust-oleum you can buy at Walmart, you can get a reasonably close match by using a mix of Flat Black and Satin Black.
    Tough up the damage and let cure for at least 24 hours or more. This will give a reasonably durable covering for the damage.

    And if even that's more then you want, you can just buy a small jar of model paint from any hobby shop and touch it up.
    This will be more durable then any of the chemical blues or blacks and an be easily removed and re-touched up easily.

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    hwb
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    thanks Ken and DFaris appreciate the above. Its couple of small areas on the frame. I'll pick up aluminum paint from Brownells.

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    In anodizing, all steel parts must be removed as they will ruin the anodizing bath solution. If you were to try one of the various people who do re-anodizing, you will first have to remove the ejector and pin, all 4 grip escutcheons and the plunger tube from the frame. This is a kingsized pain in the butt. I've done it and had a frame re-anodized but it's not worth the trouble. One of the epoxy applied finishes would be much better as long as you plan to keep the pistol. If you plan to sell it down the road, I would just leave it alone. There are lots of industrial places that will do anodizing. If you decide to go that ask for "Hard anodizing" as opposed to regular anodizing. Also have them put a Hard clear coat over the black when done. If prepped right it will look just like Colt did it. That's why both Colt and S&W will not refinish alloy framed guns period.
    Last edited by flintsghost; 05-19-2019 at 07:04 PM.
    The reason I carry a .45 is, Colt Don't make a .46

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    I have an older early 1970's Commander in .38 Super and obviously the frame on the sides of the grip safety looks to have been sanded down.
    I think I tried to touch it up and the results where less then satisfactory. But I think that dfariswheel has a good tip on using some kind of paint, like model paint or what have you. On the older gloss finish you might get a close enough match, with the newer flat anodizing it might blend a bit better. With the XSE LWT electroless finish the bare alloy doesn't show too much. I had to trim my frame where the mainspring housing is as I put a aluminum one in place of the abominable plastic one.
    Ken
    "I like Colts and will die that way"

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    One of those things that are just better left alone. Anything short of a total proper refinish won't look much better, and in some cases worse.
    saemetric and kenhwind like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnnyP View Post
    One of those things that are just better left alone. Anything short of a total proper refinish won't look much better, and in some cases worse.
    Yep making it worse seems to be the easy thing to do.
    Ken
    "I like Colts and will die that way"


 

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