How difficult to cut barrel and reattach sight?
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Thread: How difficult to cut barrel and reattach sight?

  1. #1
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    How difficult to cut barrel and reattach sight?

    I have been looking for a ejectorless barrel in .41 LC for a Model 1877 but all I seem to find are ejector barrels. I am making a non-matching serial number shooter and dont want to put a great deal of money into the barrel.

    I thought about buying a ejector barrel and cutting it down so the lug is removed, but didn't know how difficult it would be to reattach the front sight. How is the front sight attached to a older colt?

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    I believe they are soldered into a milled slot on the barrel. Milling the slot in the right place would be the problem.

  3. #3
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    Colt used a machined, tight fitted slot on the barrel, and I think, a brazing compound. This may have been silver braze (solder) or something like a brass braze.

    These are NOT the typical silver "bearing" soft solders commonly sold that contains about 3% silver.
    These are soft solders that melt at under 450 degrees and use the slight silver content to strengthen and prevent tarnishing.
    Most real silver "solder" melts at above 1100 degrees.

    Soft soldering or even silver brazing a blade sight to a barrel without the tightly fitting slot will not retain a front sight for long.

    When silver brazing you also need to be careful of scale forming inside the bore. There are compounds sold to apply inside to prevent scaling.

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    Quote Originally Posted by dfariswheel View Post
    When silver brazing you also need to be careful of scale forming inside the bore. There are compounds sold to apply inside to prevent scaling.
    I just bought a Standard Mfg single action that had that "scaling" inside the bore, just under the front sight.
    I thought it was lead build up, but reading your post I think it was scale.

    It cleaned out with some vigorous brushing.
    saintclair likes this.

  6. #5
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    I have cut down several 1877 barrels for a couple guys. what i did was start a slot hole with drill about same dia or thickness of front sight base. you dont need to go so deep. after you cut the barrel off , heat the stub around the sight with torch till red hot and it will come out with a pliers while rock it side to side.
    now measure the base for drill bit to use. just go in about the depth you have in the cut off stub. then its end mill time in bridge port or some bench top mill /drill. cut the slot to length of base with a end mill that is a bit under the thickness of sight base to go in. make another pass or two with .001 or 002 cut on each side till sight fits the slot. then mix up JB weld epoxy and fill in slot. push in front sight and then put some pressure down with spindle of mill on top of sight and lock it there. Clean up excess JB around sight base, then let it set for 24 hrs. it should hold up fine . you just have to get the index set in vice with a some angle alm or soft radius jaws to hold the barrel. let the frame hang out past vice. tall vice works nice with like 4-5 inch wide jaws. lay a small bubble level across top strap, and the barrel for square to rear sight notch. I know this is not always an at home shop tool job. But it is a way to install front without solder. some small machine shop should be able to do it on a vertical mill. its not a lot of cutting. small mill/drill will do. nice to have locks on axis that work and minimal slop. I have done SAAs this way too. really can hardly tell its a cut down after clean up and radius end of barrel with round and concave stones in drill. cold blue end. No one has come back with "hey, it flew out" ..not yet anyway. some of these i have done at least 10 yrs ago. JB is good stuff. not quick set, the standard stuff is much better. just an option vs silver solder and heat.
    dfariswheel likes this.

  7. #6
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    Nice alternative method.


 

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