Detective Special Light Primer Strikes
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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenhwind View Post
    I asked about reloads for a couple of reasons, one of which is I've had misfires with some of our colt's but it seems that it was only with reloads.
    The other reason is Speer states in their loading manual that the number one cause if misfires is primers not seated firmly.

    But if your issue is with factory then the above doesn't apply.

    Thanks for the input, Ken. Unfortunately with using factory ammo, that does rule out the problem simply being ammo. :l

    Quote Originally Posted by Jesse Heywood View Post
    If the range where you shoot has a range officer, ask the RO to go over your shooting and to check your gun. Most are there to help and are happy to assist a new shooter.
    I've mostly shot at my friend's property out in the sticks, but I likely will go to a range to make it easier to figure this out. I didn't know you could ask for an RO to assist you, so that's pretty cool, and I likely will as I'm sure they'll be much more knowledgeable than I. Thanks, Jesse.

  2. #12
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    Spirit,
    Did you pinpoint a cause yet?

    A new to me Official Police (also with a visibly modified V spring and smooth/light DA) light strikes in DA maybe 1 out of 10 shots. I also suspected the spring but it's tuned so I'd love to learn it's something else. I'm going to go through Dfarris' excellent suggestions.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by StenFreak View Post
    Spirit,
    Did you pinpoint a cause yet?

    A new to me Official Police (also with a visibly modified V spring and smooth/light DA) light strikes in DA maybe 1 out of 10 shots. I also suspected the spring but it's tuned so I'd love to learn it's something else. I'm going to go through Dfarris' excellent suggestions.
    If yours is only failing to ignite 1 out of 10, then you're already having better luck than I. As for pinpointing the cause, unfortunate news, I think it might be the spring. I haven't had a professional look it over, but when I test fired it some more and also fired another detective special the worked properly, I noticed the pull on my light primer striking gun was noticeably lighter than the correctly functioning one. Which is a bummer, because I just had the spring replaced, and it seems like I might have to again. With that being said, how hard is it to replace the spring yourself rather than a gunsmith doing it? I don't really want to pay someone if I don't have to.

    Your modified V spring very well might be the cause, but there's still a chance it could be something else. Hopefully something in Dfarris' reply helps! Regardless, that sounds like a nice Official Police you have there!

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  5. #14
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    Replacing a Colt "Vee" spring requires removing the grips, cylinder assembly, and the side plate.
    This is not difficult but requires good gunsmith screwdriver bits and some care.

    There are two ways to go, one is to follow the below instructions, the better is to buy the Jerry Kuhnhausen Shop Manual, Vol One, that covers everything in deep detail.

    First....The book and screwdrivers......

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod25720.aspx

    Bits.
    I recommend buying two thicknesses to cover variations in slot size. These are great driver bits and Brownell's will replace them FREE if you damage them. Just email them and they send a replacement.
    I also recommend buying a "law enforcement" size handle. These smaller handles give far better control then bigger handles.
    You can also usually find a shorter handle in a good hardware store.

    Buy the following bits....

    .150-2 and -3.
    .180-2 and -3.
    .210-2 and -3.

    Dash 3 and up...

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...prod41568.aspx

    Dash 2....

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...s-prod425.aspx

    Handles. I'd buy a magnetic and a clip retention law enforcement handle. In gun work you'll need both types...

    https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...s-prod400.aspx

    Do it yourself spring replacement.....

    First remove the grips.

    Then the cylinder assembly.
    On the right side of the revolver will be either the new style retention or the old type.
    The old type is a "Figure-8" arrangement of a screw and interlocking stud.
    Unscrew the screw and the stud is lifted out of the frame and the cylinder can be removed. It's usually not necessary to totally remove the assembly.
    Open the cylinder and rotate it so a flute lines up with the lower-front part of the frame. Slide the cylinder and crane assembly out of the frame.

    New type is a single large head screw on the right side of the frame.
    This is actually a cap screw. Unscrew it and under it is a small spring and plunger. They may or may not come out with the cap screw.
    Remove them, rotate the cylinder so a flute lines up with the lower frame and slide the cylinder and crane out.

    NOTE: DO NOT attempt to disassemble the cylinder assembly. The old style require special tools, and it's always a risk to disassemble any version of cylinder assembly.

    With the cylinder assembly out and the grips off, remove the two side plate screws. The screws are different lengths, make sure they go back in the correct hole later.

    Hold the frame with a finger in front of the cylinder release to prevent it from popping out and loosing a tiny spring and plunger under it.
    Holding the frame in one hand with a finger restraining the release, rap the side of the grip frame BELOW the side plate with a plastic screwdriver handle.
    This will vibrate the plate loose.
    Rap enough to loosen and lift the side plate but don't allow it to come all the way out, that may chatter mark the frame and plate.
    Lift the plate off, making sure the cylinder release doesn't come out of the side plate.

    Use a pair of smooth jaw pliers to squeeze the two "legs" of the Vee spring together while you unhook the top leg from the hammer stirrup.
    Ease the spring out of the frame while keeping the spring compressed.

    Use a stone to lightly round off and smooth the front edge of the Vee spring. This will prevent a sharp edge from catching on the rebound and giving a rough trigger pull.

    Grip the new spring with padded pliers, making SURE to use some sort of padding to insure the spring isn't scratched. Any scratches may cause stress risers that can cause the spring to break later.
    With the legs compressed, slip the spring into the frame and hook the hammer stirrup onto the hooks of the spring.
    Push the spring in place and insure the hammer is hooked up with the spring and the lower leg is on the rebound lever.

    Check the cylinder latch pin to insure it's facing out properly and in the small circular cut in the frame, and the cylinder hand is pressed in properly.
    Holding the cylinder release in place insert the top of the side plate into the frame.
    Sliding the cylinder release very slightly back and forth to insure it interlocks with the cylinder latch pin, press the side plate down into place.
    If the side plate doesn't slip into the frame check the cylinder latch pin and the hand to insure they're in place correctly.
    If the hand is out of place, lift the rebound slightly and push the hand down into place.

    With the side plate fully in place, hold it down with a thumb and operate the trigger to insure it operates and the cylinder release pulls the cylinder locking pin back in the frame.

    Install the screws, slip the cylinder assembly back in place and replace the retention.

    This sounds more complicated then it really is, the only key is to not damage screw slots, dink up the frame or side plate, and insure the hand and cylinder latching pin are in place, and that everything works.

    For a new spring, I'd recommend going to Jack First. They make correct factory spec new replacements.....

    https://jack-first-gun-parts.myshopi...t-d-mainspring
    Spirit and Kerz like this.

  6. #15
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    Thanks a ton for that ridiculously comprehensive reply, dfariswheel. Especially listing parts/tools too. I don't have the time now with Christmas to get everything and try it myself, but I definitely appreciate your detailed and meticulous explanation of how to replace the 'vee' spring. I'm certainly going to keep it in hand for when I get around to doing so myself, and hopefully anyone else needing to know the same will stumble across your post. Cheers! And merry Christmas!
    sublimert70 likes this.


 
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