Timing my Colt Single Action Army.
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Thread: Timing my Colt Single Action Army.

  1. #11
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    Hi There,

    Nice video! I do have a couple of comments.
    Calipers (especially Chinese digital ones) are not
    the most precise or reliable measuring tools. They
    are generally not to be trusted when measuring to
    .001" or less. There are better tools for precise
    metrology.

    Be sure to polish off any sharp edges on the rounded
    top of the bolt. Not much polishing is needed. You
    just don't want a sharp edge that will scrape metal
    off of the cylinder.

    Otherwise, you are looking good!

    Good Luck!
    -Blue Chips-
    Webb

  2. #12
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    So far so good. The Smith Enterprises bolt is the only correct 1st gen reproduction bolt made. The hammer repair and cam installation will be critical. Good luck!
    Chaffee likes this.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crowndog View Post
    So far so good. The Smith Enterprises bolt is the only correct 1st gen reproduction bolt made. The hammer repair and cam installation will be critical. Good luck!
    The same applies for the Smith Enterprises hand.
    colt03, Monsai52 and Chaffee like this.

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  5. #14
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    Part of the problems w/the timing of the old bolt was caused by someone that put a uberti-usfa [they are identical] bolt in a colt,contrary to popular opinion they are not interchangeable w/out altering them to make them function,but even then they don't really work like they should,there's a fairly big difference in the geometry of the 2 bolts as well as the location of the cam on the hammer.If u take the time & have a new uberti bolt & a new colt or SE bolt put the trigger screw thru both bolts on a flat surface & the difference is visually obvious w/out having to measure anything.

  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gil View Post
    Hi Tim, thanks. Not nickel... There are some traces of blueing under the push rod housing... There is just none of the original finish left... Someone might have helped it a bit, I don't know... I should get a letter, but $150 is a bit much right now... I am not sure how the value has been affected, or not, by a possible polish, but I sure would like to know if it had one or not to remove any leftover blueing...
    I just cast some 190gr bullets, sized them and made some lube. I have 50 *- .38-40 cases, still need to buy the reloading dies, some BP and primers... One thing at a time!
    Gil.
    Gil, it is one of the nicer no-finish SAAs I have seen.

  7. #16
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    I think that before you get too far into the project, you might want to fit a new base pin bushing to correct the end shake and tighten the base pin / base pin bushing fit.

    Best regards,
    Cozmo likes this.
    My opinion is free, and worth every penny of it.

  8. #17
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    Very nice! I enjoyed it very much.
    "In sun and shade, be sure by your friends. Never swing a mean loop. Never do dirt to man nor animal" The Cowboy Code.

  9. #18
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    Hi Gil. Good video! I'm looking forward to seeing the later parts!
    One thing though: you first polished the right side of the bolt using sandpaper. How and where did you remove the material to fit the bolt to the notches? The book says to only remove material in a shaded detail on the part. This would be hard to achieve with sandpaper, but has to be done using a second cut or smooth file. Hence my question as I did not see this in the video.

  10. #19
    gil
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    Hello, thanks Hopalong, it does look good indeed. Not that I care too much about resale value since I'll probably never sell it, unless I get a better one, which also would have to be before serial 192,000 to be legal here.

    Monsai52, I do have end-shake shims, but clearly not a long-term solution. I actually can't get the bushing off the cylinder... I tried and now the base pin fit is a little tight. I don't want to risk any real damage...

    Thanks Smokem. Prowbar, everything I did is on the video, nothing else. I hope I didn't mess anything up...

    And thanks again to Jim who is guiding me through this procedure!

    Gil.

  11. #20
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    Gil, do you have Kroil?
    One of my base-pin bushings would not budge from its tight hold in the cylinder. I soaked it for two days in Kroil, and uses a wooden rod/hammer to get it to move. Other rods are likely better--wood is all I had that fit.

    If you have no Kroil or access to it, some people use a mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone--some folk say it is the best; some say PB Blaster is just as good. Kroil is safe to use on your Colt.

    Again, if there are parts you need and have difficulty in finding them, send me a message and I'll see what I can do from here to get that revolver BARKING!

    Also, I replaced base-pins and bushings in two of my well used Colts. Instant improvement and a comfort to me, having the cylinders solidly aligned.
    Last edited by Cascades; 05-11-2018 at 11:16 AM.


 
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