Tip for Reducing Mainspring Pressure
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Thread: Tip for Reducing Mainspring Pressure

  1. #21
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    Cliff, You started a Thread that resulted in lots of good ideas!! Thanks!
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  2. #22
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    It was good dialogue Terry!!! And whoda thunk it?

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    All SAA Colt work; Action Work, Tune-ups, Barrel Rotation for Accuracy, Custom grips, Cylinder fitting.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by smkummer View Post
    I have been using a colt cowboy in SASS for about 5 years now and finally added a second. The second gun was about new but it had a heavier hammer/action. I took apart my first gun to discover a hollowed out reduced power mainspring. Wolf sells these so I ordered another for my “new” cowboy to match. From my limited experience, these appear to be quality springs that last and after going lighter on the mainspring especially for cowboy action, it would be hard to go back to factory. I am getting 100% ignition with WW primers and this ammo is loaded on a progressive press.

    I hope its OK to ask on this thread but I ordered a 3 pack of the wire bolt/ trigger springs. I have broken a traditional bolt spring in a match and another shooter borrow me his gun to finish but now I keep a spare in my range bag when I cowboy shoot so I can fix the gun at a match. Are the lighter wire bolt springs safe for faster cowboy action type shooting? Anyone else here using them?
    I won't use them,when a gun comes in w/one of them in it I replace it w/a flat spring.when u use the wire spring the bolt doesn't snap firmly in the lockslot like a flat spring does,it eases in & also your trigger pull will be immediately lighter w/the wire spring.
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  5. #24
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    Some little known thread related colt trivia.Up until the end of 1941 when they quit making the 1st gen's colt offered an option in their catalog which was a metal spacer to reduce the main spring tension,it was a little thinner in width than the trgr strp,it went down almost to the bottom & was about a 1/4" above the screw hole & had a radius on the top of it facing the spring & was about 3/16" thick".

  6. #25
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    In a properly tuned action, does a strong factory 1st gen mainspring cause more wear than a lighter one?

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by chawk View Post
    In a properly tuned action, does a strong factory 1st gen mainspring cause more wear than a lighter one?
    The only action related thing the heavier mainspring will wear out more quickly is the trigger.
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  8. #27
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    All my 2nd Gens have Wolff Mainsprings in them and many of my 1st gens have the 2nd Gen. springs I removed in them. Win, Win.
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  9. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by hearsedriver
    Well, I defer to the experts here Disregard my thread. Thanks!
    Naw, good stuff here. Much of this stuff has been learned, forgotten and relearned again only to be forgotten once again. Hopefully over time and with use, we are all the better for the knowledge gained. And better yet that same hard earned knowledge gets passed along.

    Some where I remember reading about Bat Masterson pulling his guns ( one apart at a time) on a saloon table and doing a trigger job or just cleaning them. A leather washer went under the main spring back then. A small lock washer is a better idea now.

    Think of the original use for a SAA as a tool. Hammer as often as a shootin iron for some.

    Then fast draw starting in the 50s? SAA was never made to take that kind of abuse was it?

    Then SASS starting in the '80s? Who ever envisioned shooting 100,000 rounds or more of ammo through just one SAA in a life time?

    Then think back to all the info that the end users have gained, discarded, and then used from 1873 till now on the SAA. Quite the data log if one had it all piled up in one place

  10. #29
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    In all reality, the issue of the leather absorbing moisture for the most part is a mute point. Does anyone here subject their $xxxx.00 guns to the environments and NOT do a thorough cleaning and oiling afterwards? I dont, and never will. SO, leather can still be a vialbe option.

    Dont sweat it Cliff
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    Amat Victoria Curam

  11. #30
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    I think the point on using leather or rubber (and who hasn't?) is that the material is not consistent (with oil or moisture on it) and compresses under pressure. Kinda like leaving the main spring screw loose.

    What you get is an inconsistent trigger pull. A metal washer or shim is a better answer to keep your gun running as originally intended. Think about that for a minute. "You want to add leather or rubber or leave a screw loose in your gun, to make it run better?


 
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