MarkInTx, I hope that there is a lot of satisfaction coming my way. Right now, I am still at the frustrated, why-did-I-take-this-on position! I think I need to remove just a tad from the front of the sear. I did put some Prussian blue on the cylinder stop and got that crap all over everything! I've cleaned it up and ready to attack it again...
I think you should take some pictures of your work.
Basically, you'll have to follow that order :
1/ sear (SA - 3rd notch)
2/ cyl stop (~ trigger stud)
3/ hand (2nd pawl) + springs
These 3 parts will be adjusted in the mecchanism, there is no absolute dimension or shape to obtain, they just have to do their job.
So, to begin, you put only the sear (with the trigger and the hammer of course) in the frame, and it must be flush with the stud when the hammer is locked at the full cock position.
Then, applying some force on the hammer, you'll press the trigger and it must make the sear rotate just enough to free the hammer.
also, I think, like Shreck already noticed, that your trigger screw is too thin in diameter. if the trigger as some play in the frame (other than its functionnal rotation) it will not work.