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1877 Lightning Repair

2384 Views 47 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Shrek73, 
Barry Myers
I have a friend's 1877 Lightning for repair. It came to me hollow and I have acquired all of the parts and have learned how to put it back together -as I have found out to get the parts to fit, many times.

My problem is now to get the parts to function together!

Problem 1: It seems that the cylinder stop doesn't return properly. It works freely without the other parts installed. I am hesitant to take any metal from the nose as I hate to buy more parts. It appears to ride up when the trigger stud impacts it, but I am not sure if the nose should be flat along the trigger body or just touch the stud. And it doesn't return when the trigger is returned forward (It doesn't return on its own...)

Problem 2: The sear doesn't move freely and I am not sure what needs stoned or whether I was when I agreed to take this project on...

I haven't put on the hammer spring in play yet, so I am not sure what effect that would have on my existing problems. One more thing, I am not a gunsmith. I have worked on muzzleloaders and other guns, but not double action pistols. Thanks for any advice you wish to share.
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Barry Myers
victorio1sw said:
Two good sources of 3-D moving parts interaction:

On youtube is CandRsenal.

poudreverte, who is sometimes on this forum, also built something like a 3-D Autocad moving picture of these parts. Watching these may answer some of your questions.
Click to expand...
Thank you for the video. The animation was most helpful. when I can get back to the pistol, I may have to restructure the cylinder stop nose. Someone says below that he stayed away from Dixie gun parts. That is where some of mine came from. I have hardened and tempered the cylinder stop a couple of times - I am a blacksmith and that is what I do! Anyway, I may have to get some of the parts again if I can't get these to work. I think my friend wants to sell the pistol if I can get it to function and it will be more valuable if it works as someone else said. I hope poudreverte does supply has pictures.
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Barry Myers
Shrek73 said:
Probably the most important step in rebuilding a 1877 is using quality reproduction parts. I have never had any luck with Dixie Gun Work parts, they require way to much fitting and heat treatment and the springs aren't very good. There are quality parts out, but they are a little more expensive, but make your rebuild much more easier since they don't require the heat treatment.

Fitting the cylinder stop takes time, what shape is the trigger stud in?

Wisner's sells the cylinder stop and some small parts.




Jack First has a good sear.

Colt 1877 Double Action Lightning .38 and Thunder .41 revolver

jackfirstinc.com jackfirstinc.com

And Poppets has the best springs.

Colt Lightning 1877 Archives - Poppert's Gun Parts

poppertsgunparts.com poppertsgunparts.com
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. As I said to Victorio, I did get the cylinder stop and the sear from Dixie. I may have to go elsewhere if I can't get it to function. I let you know. Thanks again.
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Barry Myers
I haven't bought any new parts yet. I am trying to figure out what I should do to the ones I have first. If that doesn't work, then it will be on to find some more.

I think I have found one of my problems. I have left the sear nose square. After studying the picture below, I see that it should be slanted off so that it will slip below the trigger stud. I will slope it to match the picture and see how that works.
I have yet to see why the cylinder stop, while functioning easily when the spring and sear are not installed, it doesn't seem to want to move when they are. Still working...
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Barry Myers
I am using one from Dixie. The nose is square and butts up against the stud. I think that if I modify it as in the picture, it will function as intended. I haven't done anything to it other than try it with neither the trigger or sear/cylinder stop spring not installed. It fits into the hammer stop notches solidly and with a click.
Thanks for the caution. I'll post how it works out.
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Barry Myers
Yes, I had planned to. I have heat treated the cylinder stop a couple of times when I thought it was close. I will do both as they are just castings when I received them. I tried to get away as cheaply as I could for my friend, but it may (definitely would have) been easier had I bought finished parts from other vendors.
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Barry Myers
2
The nose of the sear seems to have gone well. I am still having interference with the sear and cylinder stop as the spring does not return them to the intended position. The first pic is the trigger forward and the second is with the trigger pulled to the rear. Where/how should I look for interference?

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Barry Myers
More bend than what I have in it? When the trigger is pulled, the stop is forced up by the stud and when the stud "sloped" area get to the stop, the stop springs to the left. That is where I think that the cylinder stop spring should push the cylinder stop forward to reengage the cylinder. I hate putting Prussian blue inside it. I'll have it everywhere!
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Barry Myers
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Here are a couple of pics to show the amount of bend in the cylinder stop. Also, I noticed the sear is short of the full cavity. Might this be an issue?

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Barry Myers
Thanks for the info. I am getting to where I can assemble and disassemble it with little difficulty. Should I add the Prussian blue to the parts?
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Barry Myers
Both of those sears are square ended. Somewhere, I saw that it was sloped from the top to the tip. I did that as the end rammed into the trigger stud and stopped the action. Once I sloped the end, it moves below the stud and disengages so that the trigger can go forward. I the animation Poureverte has provided (thank you very much), the sear doesn't appear to contact the stud. Also, Shrek's Jack First sear appears shorter than the Dixie casting. Should I have shortened the sear rather than sloped it?
I'll put some blue on the stop to see if it is rubbing. Thank you both again.
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Barry Myers
Thanks. It looks like I am on the right path. Now just to get to it.

Barry
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Barry Myers
The gun looked intact in the shadow box my friend had. I had a trigger screw from another Colt gun. I got a spring set from Popperts, the hand from Shark, the cylinder stop, sear, and grip screw/escutcheons from Dixie. The hand from Shark Arms was the most expensive, and I shied from the cylinder stop for $85 from S&S Firearms. The cylinder, trigger and hammer were in the frame.
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Barry Myers
MarkInTx, I hope that there is a lot of satisfaction coming my way. Right now, I am still at the frustrated, why-did-I-take-this-on position! I think I need to remove just a tad from the front of the sear. I did put some Prussian blue on the cylinder stop and got that crap all over everything! I've cleaned it up and ready to attack it again...
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Barry Myers
I had seen the info on your last post on the DA Revolver, but thanks.

I think (operable word) that I am getting closer. I am going to harden and temper the sear and cylinder stop today. I may try to reassemble, but I am going to have to examine the trigger screw. It didn't register when Shrek mentioned it the first time. I may have to send for one of the correct size. I used it from another pistol project leftover.

Thanks again for the advice. Barry
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Barry Myers
Sorry for dropping the ball on this. I finally got the correct screw from Jack First. I tried to get it from Shark Arms and had no success - I ordered the trigger screw and first received the trigger spring screw, then the hammer screw then the phone nor emails were not answered and I gave up. Sort of left a bad taste in my mouth and hunting season got in the way.
I'll get back on it this week. Promise!
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