[Shrek73]

The cylinder stop arm should have a slight bend to it. When you pull the trigger the stud lifts the cylinder stop up which allows the cylinder to rotate. At a certain point the cylinder stop arm needs to slide off the trigger stud, which let's it lock the cylinder in place.

I also find attaching the trigger guard and mainspring is necessary when fitting the sear and cylinder stop. It puts a little tension on the trigger and pulls it to the rear slightly.

 

[Barry Myers]

More bend than what I have in it? When the trigger is pulled, the stop is forced up by the stud and when the stud "sloped" area get to the stop, the stop springs to the left. That is where I think that the cylinder stop spring should push the cylinder stop forward to reengage the cylinder. I hate putting Prussian blue inside it. I'll have it everywhere!

 

[Shrek73]

More bend than what I have in it? When the trigger is pulled, the stop is forced up by the stud and when the stud "sloped" area get to the stop, the stop springs to the left. That is where I think that the cylinder stop spring should push the cylinder stop forward to reengage the cylinder. I hate putting Prussian blue inside it. I'll have it everywhere!

Its hard to see on phone how much bend you have.

 

[Barry Myers]

Here are a couple of pics to show the amount of bend in the cylinder stop. Also, I noticed the sear is short of the full cavity. Might this be an issue?

 

[Shrek73]

Sorry, I was traveling and only had my phone to look at photos. The arm of the cylinder stop is a spring and puts tension on the side of the trigger. When you pull the trigger or cock the hammer the trigger stud pushes up the cylinder stop up and during the travel rearward the stud should slip back under the cylinder stop arm resetting it and locking the cylinder in place. It looks like you bended your cylinder stop arm to go around the arm of the sear, I put a gradual bow in my cylinder stops. I will try to take photos of the internals in one of mine today and post them.

I have heard many people say the action will work without the trigger guard and mainspring, but I found the mainspring puts tension on the hammer and "creeps" the trigger rearward which can effect the correct length of the sear arm.

 

[Shrek73]

The nose of the sear seems to have gone well. I am still having interference with the sear and cylinder stop as the spring does not return them to the intended position. The first pic is the trigger forward and the second is with the trigger pulled to the rear. Where/how should I look for interference?

Just saw larger versions of these photos, and I see a couple things. The hole for the trigger screw is worn or someone used a smaller screw. Compare the fit of that screw with the sear screw. Your cylinder stop arm needs to rest on the trigger stud. From the photos it looks like it is not coming all the way forward. The cylinder stops need to be fitted and make sure they are not rubbing on the frame or the trigger.

The first thing I do to fit a cylinder stop is put it in the frame by itself and make sure it moves freely. Once you add tension (springs) it makes it hard to figure out the problem. You may have to remove metal on the top arm of the cylinder stop to make sure it goes through the hole without rubbing. After I get it moving freely I add the trigger and hand and make sure it moves freely. The width of the pin or the part that goes through the frame hole and the cylinder stop rotates on is also important to fit. Most are too wide and will rub on the side of the trigger. You need to remove just enough material so that it doesn't drag on the trigger. After that add the hammer, sear spring and sear. By the time you are done you should be an expert on taking it apart and reassembling.

 

[Barry Myers]

Thanks for the info. I am getting to where I can assemble and disassemble it with little difficulty. Should I add the Prussian blue to the parts?

 

[Shrek73]

I use Blue Dykem only on the cylinder stop. You will need to work the cylinder stop so to rubs off in the areas of high friction.

I took photos of the internal workings this morning and will post them later today.

 

[Shrek73]

Here are some photos of the Jack First/ Wisner's parts compared to the Dixie parts. The Jack First / Wisner's parts are on the left. They are closer to the original parts, heat treated and require less fitting. The Jack First sear is practically a drop in part, unless someone Bubba upped the trigger stud.

 

[poudreverte]

I just find this thread today, there is some time I have not worked on a 1877 but I think you could find some help by searching my previous messages concerning the 1877 on this forum.
I will also try to help from now if I can... here is a little animation I made showing the cylinder stop and sear actions :

 

[Barry Myers]

Both of those sears are square ended. Somewhere, I saw that it was sloped from the top to the tip. I did that as the end rammed into the trigger stud and stopped the action. Once I sloped the end, it moves below the stud and disengages so that the trigger can go forward. I the animation Poureverte has provided (thank you very much), the sear doesn't appear to contact the stud. Also, Shrek's Jack First sear appears shorter than the Dixie casting. Should I have shortened the sear rather than sloped it?
I'll put some blue on the stop to see if it is rubbing. Thank you both again.

 

[Shrek73]

Here is my 1880 2 1/2" .38 LC.

The arm of the cylinder stop must rest on the trigger stud while uncocked. Once you pull the trigger it should start to lift the cylinder stop. If arm is too short it will jam up because the cylinder will want to rotate before it is freed. Once I put the trigger guard and mainspring back on the slack in the photo goes away.

I have an extra trigger guard and cut out the side so I can see the action move when I am fitting the parts.

At half cock the cylinder stop arm still on the trigger stud and the top of the cylinder stop is inside the frame.

When going to full cock the cylinder stop arm slips off the stud and engages the notch in the cylinder, locking it in place.

Here is the trigger stud and sear arm at full cock on a functional gun.

You will need to fit the back side of the cylinder stop arm and smooth it over so it will slide over the trigger stud and release when it's suppose to. You need to also work the action with empty shells in the cylinder. You may get to point where you think it works, but need to know if the cylinder stop is going back enough to clear the shells.

 

[Shrek73]

Both of those sears are square ended. Somewhere, I saw that it was sloped from the top to the tip. I did that as the end rammed into the trigger stud and stopped the action. Once I sloped the end, it moves below the stud and disengages so that the trigger can go forward. I the animation Poureverte has provided (thank you very much), the sear doesn't appear to contact the stud. Also, Shrek's Jack First sear appears shorter than the Dixie casting. Should I have shortened the sear rather than sloped it?
I'll put some blue on the stop to see if it is rubbing. Thank you both again.

The Jack First sear is longer on the bottom and angled up but the correct length for an intact trigger stud. The dixie sear has a longer arm which accommodates for gunsmiths not familiar with 1877's altering the action.

The trigger stud is what trips the sear. When the trigger stud touches the sear arm to release the hammer it pushes the sear arm down. A flat edge on the sear arm would prevent it.

 

[Barry Myers]

Thanks. It looks like I am on the right path. Now just to get to it.

Barry

 

[poudreverte]

You told you had this gun "hollow" then acquired the missing parts... could you list the original parts and/or the one you bought ? for example the cylinder, the hammer, the trigger were missing or not ? I think it is important to know which parts were originaly fitted together...

 

[Barry Myers]

The gun looked intact in the shadow box my friend had. I had a trigger screw from another Colt gun. I got a spring set from Popperts, the hand from Shark, the cylinder stop, sear, and grip screw/escutcheons from Dixie. The hand from Shark Arms was the most expensive, and I shied from the cylinder stop for $85 from S&S Firearms. The cylinder, trigger and hammer were in the frame.

 

[thecoltguy]

⬆ ⬆ ⬆ Also a viable option.

The best option.

 

[poudreverte]

The best option.

Of course it depends on what the owner really wants :

• have it perfectly repaired whatever the price : send it to the best known professionnal gunsmith (Sal Lanara).
• have it working again for cheap : send it to an experienced passionnate handyman (like Shrek)
• trying to learn how to do it yourself, at your own risks : Let's go and share on the Colt forum...

 

[Agarbers]

I just read on another forum that Sal is no longer working on M1877s. I find that hard to believe.
@RevoReno
Is this true?

 

[MarkInTx]

In my mind, there is a tremendous amount of satisfaction and bragging rights in being able to say "I did" when asked who made, built, repaired or restored an object.
There is somewhat less satisfaction in saying "He did" when sending the object to a well-known expert or an experienced amateur, but everyone knows the object is in the best shape possible.

I have traveled both routes with varying levels of success. Like Dirty Harry said..."A man's got to know his limitations."