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1877 Lightning Repair

2382 Views 47 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  Shrek73
I have a friend's 1877 Lightning for repair. It came to me hollow and I have acquired all of the parts and have learned how to put it back together -as I have found out to get the parts to fit, many times.

My problem is now to get the parts to function together!

Problem 1: It seems that the cylinder stop doesn't return properly. It works freely without the other parts installed. I am hesitant to take any metal from the nose as I hate to buy more parts. It appears to ride up when the trigger stud impacts it, but I am not sure if the nose should be flat along the trigger body or just touch the stud. And it doesn't return when the trigger is returned forward (It doesn't return on its own...)

Problem 2: The sear doesn't move freely and I am not sure what needs stoned or whether I was when I agreed to take this project on...

I haven't put on the hammer spring in play yet, so I am not sure what effect that would have on my existing problems. One more thing, I am not a gunsmith. I have worked on muzzleloaders and other guns, but not double action pistols. Thanks for any advice you wish to share.
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MarkInTx, I hope that there is a lot of satisfaction coming my way. Right now, I am still at the frustrated, why-did-I-take-this-on position! I think I need to remove just a tad from the front of the sear. I did put some Prussian blue on the cylinder stop and got that crap all over everything! I've cleaned it up and ready to attack it again...
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Honestly not laughing at you but I feel your pain and have been there more times than I would like to admit. So far I have only had to take one gun to a 'smith in a brown paper bag. It cost me $50 for him to put it back together and I never went back in there again. That was pre-internet and YouTube. Now I have a pretty decent shelf of reference books and know how to use the internet (kind of).
I have used that Dykum Blue and the first time, there was more blue on my hands and workbench than ever got on the part(s)! I have resorted to using whatever color Sharpie I can pilfer from my wife's "office" drawer in the kitchen.
"Have you seen my (insert color here) Sharpie?"
"Uhhh...not recently..." 🤷‍♂️

Keep the faith...you will get there. You found a great resource in the guys on here!
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MarkInTx, I hope that there is a lot of satisfaction coming my way. Right now, I am still at the frustrated, why-did-I-take-this-on position! I think I need to remove just a tad from the front of the sear. I did put some Prussian blue on the cylinder stop and got that crap all over everything! I've cleaned it up and ready to attack it again...
I think you should take some pictures of your work.
Basically, you'll have to follow that order :
1/ sear (SA - 3rd notch)
2/ cyl stop (~ trigger stud)
3/ hand (2nd pawl) + springs
These 3 parts will be adjusted in the mecchanism, there is no absolute dimension or shape to obtain, they just have to do their job.
So, to begin, you put only the sear (with the trigger and the hammer of course) in the frame, and it must be flush with the stud when the hammer is locked at the full cock position.
Then, applying some force on the hammer, you'll press the trigger and it must make the sear rotate just enough to free the hammer.

also, I think, like Shreck already noticed, that your trigger screw is too thin in diameter. if the trigger as some play in the frame (other than its functionnal rotation) it will not work.
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Here is a good document for repairing the lightning (I don't know if you've read it already) :

Colt 1877 Double Action Revolver
I had seen the info on your last post on the DA Revolver, but thanks.

I think (operable word) that I am getting closer. I am going to harden and temper the sear and cylinder stop today. I may try to reassemble, but I am going to have to examine the trigger screw. It didn't register when Shrek mentioned it the first time. I may have to send for one of the correct size. I used it from another pistol project leftover.

Thanks again for the advice. Barry
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Anymore updates, I just read this post and it’s quite informative. I’m trying to tackle the same project, just waiting for parts now.
Sorry for dropping the ball on this. I finally got the correct screw from Jack First. I tried to get it from Shark Arms and had no success - I ordered the trigger screw and first received the trigger spring screw, then the hammer screw then the phone nor emails were not answered and I gave up. Sort of left a bad taste in my mouth and hunting season got in the way.
I'll get back on it this week. Promise!
Sorry for dropping the ball on this. I finally got the correct screw from Jack First. I tried to get it from Shark Arms and had no success - I ordered the trigger screw and first received the trigger spring screw, then the hammer screw then the phone nor emails were not answered and I gave up. Sort of left a bad taste in my mouth and hunting season got in the way.
I'll get back on it this week. Promise!
I believe Shark arms is about out of parts. They contacted me years ago when they came across boxes of 1877 parts. I helped them identify what they had, the value and the made me a nice deal on some parts for helping them.

Jack First is a good source of parts. There shipping is pricey so I always order alot of parts at one time to make it worth the cost.

The best deal on springs is at Poppert's. He sells a Colt Lightning Spring Kit, which has the trigger, sear, hand, ejector and strut springs. Its a good idea to replace all the internal springs.


I also get parts from Wisner's. They supply some parts to Jack's First such as cylinder stop and trigger roll and trigger stud. Sometimes it cheaper to go thru them. He makes parts once a year and it make take him some time to make new parts after they run out of stock.


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