[waltmilan]

Hi everyone,
I've just inherited a 1903 Pocket Hammer (38 Rimless)
Can you help me on what bullet it shoots.
I've looked them up on GI.
They advertise as 38 AUTO
Or 38 ACP.
I mistook it as 380 AUTO.
Well I know now, that's not correct!
Is this round, like the size of a 38 special?
I don't mean to shoot 38 specials in it.
Just the size of it.
Bullet diameter? Or BORE DIA.
PS the gun Is apart right now.
So pics will come later.
Thanks for your help!
Pics of the pistol added
View attachment 836812

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
View attachment 836828 View attachment 836829

I would add that if you use .38 Super you face the risk of death or serious bodily injury. The .38 Super is much higher pressure than the 1903 was designed for. Additionally, in the Model 1903 the slide removes from the rear of the frame, not the front like a 1911. The only thing protecting you from the slide coming back into your face is the disassembly pin. I have seen a 1903 that blew apart when fired with .38 Super. I don’t know what happened to the shooter, but I’ll bet it wasn’t pretty.

 

[Hootch56]

Check your PM

 

[oberon]

I would add that if you use .38 Super you face the risk of death or serious bodily injury. The .38 Super is much higher pressure than the 1903 was designed for. Additionally, in the Model 1903 the slide removes from the rear of the frame, not the front like a 1911. The only thing protecting you from the slide coming back into your face is the disassembly pin. I have seen a 1903 that blew apart when fired with .38 Super. I don’t know what happened to the shooter, but I’ll bet it wasn’t pretty.

This warning cannot be overstated. The pistol as it is, runs at performance and pressure levels very similar to 9mm. This is plenty. The early .38 acp was a stout round to start with, and was downloaded and numbed up a little sometime before the development of the .38 super. The .38 super picked up where the .38 acp left off, and is a powerful round when compared to the .38 acp. or the 9mm. It operates at a high enough pressure to break the frame and /or the little takedown piece of the earlier pistol. There have been many 1903 pocket hammers bent and busted , and some have come apart completely. This may, in part anyway, explain the relative scarcity of these pistols. We just don't see as many as we would like to. All the nice ones are in collections or museums, and the beaters have run the risk of being blown up, many of which did get wrecked. Kinda sad, really.

 

[cloverleaf]

This one might be a contender
ttps://www.gunsinternational.com/guns-for-sale-online/pistols/colt-pistols-1903/colt-1903-pocket-hammer-pistol-38-acp.cfm?gun_id=102252380

 

[inspcalahan]

This warning cannot be overstated. The pistol as it is, runs at performance and pressure levels very similar to 9mm. This is plenty. The early .38 acp was a stout round to start with, and was downloaded and numbed up a little sometime before the development of the .38 super. The .38 super picked up where the .38 acp left off, and is a powerful round when compared to the .38 acp. or the 9mm. It operates at a high enough pressure to break the frame and /or the little takedown piece of the earlier pistol. There have been many 1903 pocket hammers bent and busted , and some have come apart completely. This may, in part anyway, explain the relative scarcity of these pistols. We just don't see as many as we would like to. All the nice ones are in collections or museums, and the beaters have run the risk of being blown up, many of which did get wrecked. Kinda sad, really.

Honestly, this is what's kept me from firing mine to this point. I intended to at some point. I have a couple boxes of older .38auto ammo ready to go. I've completely stripped it and checked everything. I even picked up a new recoil spring to use. Just haven't gotten around to it. Whoever the past owner was cleaned it as if they were going to refinish it and stopped there. The markings are still decent.

 

[Fast enough]

Mine is in pretty nice condition. Fired it in the past and loaded for it, but it has been a long while. Have to take it out when the weather improves.

 

[oberon]

Honestly, this is what's kept me from firing mine to this point. I intended to at some point. I have a couple boxes of older .38auto ammo ready to go. I've completely stripped it and checked everything. I even picked up a new recoil spring to use. Just haven't gotten around to it. Whoever the past owner was cleaned it as if they were going to refinish it and stopped there. The markings are still decent.
View attachment 837458
View attachment 837459

If you have factory .38 acp ammo, you can use it as normal in your pistol. If you don't have factor rounds, there is good brass available, and reliable load information from many loading manuals. Actually this approach is probably more useful in that you can tailor your load for your particular pistol, and soften 'em up even more but still guarantee good cycling of the action. I have no ammo for mine, but there is some brass on it's way. I still have a couple questions relating to resizing die, shell holder, and optimal bullet diameter, but those issues will be a helluva lot easier dealt with than chasing down brass or factory ammo.

 

[rock185]

Anytime I'm at a gun show where there are ammo collectors or others who have ammo for sale, I check to see if they have any .38 ACP. Never have run across any at a gun show, but did acquire a single box elsewhere a few years ago. I load .38 Super, Super Comp, etc., have plenty of components, etc., so it was no problem to tailor light .38 ACP loads for the old Pocket Hammer.

I thought about shooting some of the factory .38 ACP in the old gun, but the box doesn't mention that the ammo is non-corrosive. The Peters "38 Colt Automatic" ammo I have looks about as old as the gun. I suspect the old ammo probably is corrosive, and don't think I'll shoot it.

 

[inspcalahan]

If you have factory .38 acp ammo, you can use it as normal in your pistol. If you don't have factor rounds, there is good brass available, and reliable load information from many loading manuals. Actually this approach is probably more useful in that you can tailor your load for your particular pistol, and soften 'em up even more but still guarantee good cycling of the action. I have no ammo for mine, but there is some brass on it's way. I still have a couple questions relating to resizing die, shell holder, and optimal bullet diameter, but those issues will be a helluva lot easier dealt with than chasing down brass or factory ammo.

Fortunately, I do have a couple boxes of factory ammo. I may donate a box full to the range once the snow clears out.

I'd be interested in your reloading specs and such once you get to it, as I'd likely get to that stage eventually. I haven't stumbled across anymore .38acp in years.

 

[inspcalahan]

Anytime I'm at a gun show where there are ammo collectors or others who have ammo for sale, I check to see if they have any .38 ACP. Never have run across any at a gun show, but did acquire a single box elsewhere a few years ago. I load .38 Super, Super Comp, etc., have plenty of components, etc., so it was no problem to tailor light .38 ACP loads for the old Pocket Hammer.

I thought about shooting some of the factory .38 ACP in the old gun, but the box doesn't mention that the ammo is non-corrosive. The Peters "38 Colt Automatic" ammo I have looks about as old as the gun. I suspect the old ammo probably is corrosive, and don't think I'll shoot it.
View attachment 837519

Great picture! That world map backdrop just works great with that old Colt.

 

[kenhwind]

Fortunately, I do have a couple boxes of factory ammo. I may donate a box full to the range once the snow clears out.

I'd be interested in your reloading specs and such once you get to it, as I'd likely get to that stage eventually. I haven't stumbled across anymore .38acp in years.

Sellers are asking ridiculous prices for .38 Auto.
Hornady had .38 Auto data for their bullets, but some starting loads, those with a published MV below the 1040 fps for the .38 Auto should be okay.
If you can find an older Winchester reloading guide, they had a listing for W231.

 

[Blackjack33]

I, too, like the old map background rock185. This one is from my home State. It and the ammo are from the same period as the .38 Auto which is 99%.

 

[tedmdds1]

I've shot most of these 1903 38acp over the years without incident. Guesstimate over 20,000 rounds, mostly reloads.

 

[cloverleaf]

That's all?

 

[cxm357]

The 38 Auto is an easy cartridge to hand load...

Graff's has brass for the 38 Auto (probably made by Star-Line.)

I load the 38 Auto with either the Barry's 130gr. copper plated bullet or the Xtreme 124 gr heavy plated bullet... both work well...

For loading data I use the advice Hodgdon published some years ago... I use the published starting 38 Super load for the bullet Im using reduced by 5%. Then I work back up to a load that does not exceed the published starting 38 Super load for the bullet/powder I'm using. This has worked well and does not seem to have stressed my old guns at all...

FWIW

Chuck

 

[kenhwind]

I was using Montana Gold 130 grain MC because it has the same profile as the original .38 Auto/.38 Super bullet. Cannot seem to get them anymore.

The Berry's bullet is fine for the 38 ACP. Graf & Sons brass is fine too.

 

[73shovel]