I had one that did that, so I changed the sear and it worked fine. Another issue could be that someone tried to work on the hammer notch to make it have less travel and lighter pull on the trigger.
1911 returns to half cock after slide release
Just took this old pistol out to check the function. Everything else works as it should. Including when it locked back on the empty mag. Pressed the slide release, and the slide slammed shut. That's when I noticed it was at half cock. I was able to repeat this without having fired it also. Any ideas on what the issue might be?
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saintclair hit the nail on the head.
I've seen that happen a lot over the years with race guns. People get carried away filing/stoning hammer notches and/or the sear to lighten the trigger and end up with the hammer following and an unsafe trigger.
I even overheard one shooter say that his gunsmith told him all good 1911 trigger jobs do that. :bang_wall:
I've seen that happen a lot over the years with race guns. People get carried away filing/stoning hammer notches and/or the sear to lighten the trigger and end up with the hammer following and an unsafe trigger.
I even overheard one shooter say that his gunsmith told him all good 1911 trigger jobs do that. :bang_wall:
So can it be repaired using the existing parts? Or should I buy new parts? And is the sear a drop in, or fitted part here?
Before replacing parts, one experiment would be to put a little more tension on the sear spring.
A major source of posts about the 1911 series is the hammer dropping to half cock.
Often this is in guns that had work done on the trigger assembly or old guns that had no work done but over the years have gotten the sear spring bent inadvertently.
If you disassemble the frame to allow access to the flat sear spring, try giving the left "leg" of the spring a little more forward bend.
This will put more tension on the sear and that might be all that's needed.
What happens in this case if that the sear spring is not putting enough tension on the sear, and when the slide closes the vibration can allow the sear to move enough to allow the hammer to drop to half cock.
If this fixes the problem, that may be all that's needed. If the problem returns, buy a new sear spring.
While you have it apart, just go ahead and give the frame and slide a deep cleaning and fresh lube.
While it's apart closely examine the sear and hammer notches for wear or alteration.
If the parts need replacing, the hammer and sear are very much fitted parts. Even parts sold as matched "drop in" parts need at least some fitting and this requires skill and some tooling to get it right and not to wind up with an unsafe gun.
A major source of posts about the 1911 series is the hammer dropping to half cock.
Often this is in guns that had work done on the trigger assembly or old guns that had no work done but over the years have gotten the sear spring bent inadvertently.
If you disassemble the frame to allow access to the flat sear spring, try giving the left "leg" of the spring a little more forward bend.
This will put more tension on the sear and that might be all that's needed.
What happens in this case if that the sear spring is not putting enough tension on the sear, and when the slide closes the vibration can allow the sear to move enough to allow the hammer to drop to half cock.
If this fixes the problem, that may be all that's needed. If the problem returns, buy a new sear spring.
While you have it apart, just go ahead and give the frame and slide a deep cleaning and fresh lube.
While it's apart closely examine the sear and hammer notches for wear or alteration.
If the parts need replacing, the hammer and sear are very much fitted parts. Even parts sold as matched "drop in" parts need at least some fitting and this requires skill and some tooling to get it right and not to wind up with an unsafe gun.
If the problem is due to wear, the hammer hooks and sear may be repairable with a square-cut stone for the hammer hooks, and the correct jig for the sear. It really depends on the amount of wear.
If, however, it's due to a "GI trigger job" or a bubba gunsmithing job, bets are off and you may be looking for a new sear and a new hammer. Neither are expensive, but should be fitted. Even if it's a "fitted" set, it should be checked.
It's not hard or expensive with the right tools...but good grief, people mess them up.
If, however, it's due to a "GI trigger job" or a bubba gunsmithing job, bets are off and you may be looking for a new sear and a new hammer. Neither are expensive, but should be fitted. Even if it's a "fitted" set, it should be checked.
It's not hard or expensive with the right tools...but good grief, people mess them up.
As always, good advice is, if you want to work on the 1911 series or just would like to know more about the mechanics, buy the Jerry Kuhnhausen Shop Manual Vol. One. There is a Volume Two that goes into more detail and includes blueprints for each part.
These were written as training aids for new gunsmiths and cover all 1911 work to Colt factory standards.
This gets deep into checking out parts for wear or defects and on how to install and fit new parts.
It covers trigger work thoroughly, including pictures.
When working on the trigger assembly there's a lot more to it then just the sear and hammer. Among others, you have to be certain the safety functions correctly and doesn't allow any sear movement with the safety On.
If you own a 1911 series this is the best money you can spend for knowledge.
For most owners Volume One is the most useful.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-auto-shop-manual-10th-edition-prod13805.aspx
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...d-m1911a-shop-manual-volume-ii-prod13815.aspx
These were written as training aids for new gunsmiths and cover all 1911 work to Colt factory standards.
This gets deep into checking out parts for wear or defects and on how to install and fit new parts.
It covers trigger work thoroughly, including pictures.
When working on the trigger assembly there's a lot more to it then just the sear and hammer. Among others, you have to be certain the safety functions correctly and doesn't allow any sear movement with the safety On.
If you own a 1911 series this is the best money you can spend for knowledge.
For most owners Volume One is the most useful.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...-auto-shop-manual-10th-edition-prod13805.aspx
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...d-m1911a-shop-manual-volume-ii-prod13815.aspx
You should NEVER drop the slide on an empty chamber. The slide stripping a round from the magazine 'cushions' the impact.
^^^^What he said!^^^^ That's one reason why snap-caps and dummy rounds were developed.You should NEVER drop the slide on an empty chamber. The slide stripping a round from the magazine 'cushions' the impact.
Thanks guys this sounds like good advice. There's a 1911 gunsmith around here locally. So I'm just thinking about trying him out first. I called him up, and he said it sounded like it needed a trigger job. And that he could do it in a couple hours. This guy came highly recommended. He might decide that it is indeed the spring. I'll just have to trust that he knows his stuff. His main gig seems to be building custom, and hot rod 1911s. But according to his website he's full service. But 1911 platform only.
You should NEVER drop the slide on an empty chamber. The slide stripping a round from the magazine 'cushions' the impact.[/QUOTE
I'm not sure whether or not there is any actual damage to a 1911 type pistol incurred when doing this, but it seems logical, as there is obviously a very violent reaction to releasing the slide without chambering a round at the same time! Frankly, I don't think I've ever read anything that addressed this!
I'll have to look into the dropping the slide. It has always been a habit when chambering a round after a mag change. Never thought it'd be a problem with the gun empty. Never too old to learn I suppose. Just learned the other day that a round shouldn't be placed in the chamber manually. That it's can damage the extractor, when the slide slams shut.
Hmm...didn't know that either, but then, I only started shooting 45 semi automatics about 1955 or so, and it's true you learn something nearly every day...so long as you keep your eyes/ears/and mind open!I'll have to look into the dropping the slide. It has always been a habit when chambering a round after a mag change. Never thought it'd be a problem with the gun empty. Never too old to learn I suppose. Just learned the other day that a round shouldn't be placed in the chamber manually. That it's can damage the extractor, when the slide slams shut.
I have found one of the best sources of information concerning John Browning's "Old Reliable", is the following web site,
SightM1911.com .
The National Match .45 ACP Pistols
And no, it doesn't deal with National Match pistols only, but covers everything having to do with the 1911 45 pistol!
nowinca
Wow! A quick web search on this dropping the slide on an empty chamber shows that people have been talking about this a lot. It looks almost like some of those "which cleaning products works best" threads that I'm sure we've all seen. After reading a few, it's all the same arguments. Some good points made by both sides. Personally I won't be doing it anymore. Just to be on the safe side. But I'm a clean it every time I shoot it guy.
Both Wilson Combat and Nighthawk Custom explicitly advise not to drop the slide of their guns on an empty chamber, but dry fire all you like. I like to think John Browning would have included that admonition in his "user manual" as well.
Ed
Ed
Lock the slide to the rear then using your finger freeze the trigger by pushing to the side. If now when you drop the slide the hammer stays cocked then my suggestion is to bend the center leaf forward a bit and see if this cures your problem. The inertia of the trigger makes it sometimes tap the disconnector which in turn tap the sear jarring it out of contact with the hammer. Of course there can be other problems as others have written. Dropping the slide on an empty chamber does no harm.
Been said in BOLD CAPITAL LETTERS in the Kuhnhausen 1911 gunsmith shop manuals.
Except: IIRC when I put together my Caspian frame I used the Cylinder & Slide retro hammer/sear/disconnector they did say to drop the slide to insure that the hammer does not fall to half cock.You should NEVER drop the slide on an empty chamber. The slide stripping a round from the magazine 'cushions' the impact.
Other then a safety check I agree, there is no reason to drop the slide on an empty chamber.
Old trigger job(?) Weak sear spring, or damaged sear/full cock notch.
Oftentimes, this is caused by an overzealous trigger job. Weak sear spring, or worn or damaged sear/full cock notch are also possibilities.
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