Welcome to the Forum. Looks like you have a nice shooter Python. In this condition on Gunbroker it would get $1,500-$1,800. I can suggest adding a set of correct third generation grips for about $250. Just don’t buy any fake boxes that sellers claim are original. 😜 Shoot it and enjoy it.

 

Thanks! Just for clarity, would adding the $250 3rd gen grips , basically add $250 to the market value? For example, as is, it could fetch 1500-1800, but with the correct 3rd gen grips, it would fetch 1750-2000 instead? Also, do you have a recommendation on where to find the proper grips? Also, random other question. Are these older Pythons, like this one, superior to the new ones being manufactured now?

 

Would consider the lower end of the previously posted $1500-1800 range as most likely. The late 70s era does not add any special draw to the gun and the condition is low. You have a decent shooter, but you are in price range where your target customer can buy a new Python for $15/$1600....and if they choose to spend closer to $2k they can get one in much nicer condition. If you get an offer over $1300 I would take it and run.

 

Spending the money for correct stocks may not return the same amount of market value to the whole package. Unless one can get replacement stocks cheap it may be at best a wash money-wise. But then it might make it more easily sellable even if it is a wash monetarily.

A Python is still a Python and commands attention in the market.

 

The original Pythons carry a lot of intrigue but when the condition is not stellar, the value is held down regardless of grips. I don't think many people will pay over $1300 for yours. Don't fool with getting new grips if you just want to sell it. Most people investing over $1500 in an older Python will pay $500 or more extra and get one in better condition. Yours is probably best as a good shooter which carries the value. Nice inheritance!

 

As in all of the “what’s the value” questions, location is also a factor…. The higher end of the range is more typical in the mid-Michigan area. I would suggest a limit of $2K IF in great mechanical condition with the correct grips (also in great condition).

 

just a little below $2k i guess.
I have seen them get sold for $1700 at my LGS.

 

I haven’t kept up with pythons prices lately but imo it’s a $1200-1300 gun as is. I wouldn’t bother with buying correct stocks. It’s a shooter, not a showpiece.

 

Welcome to the COLT Forum from the Cradle Of Liberty...Pennsylvania !!

Enjoy Our Community Sir...

 

DUPE

 

I think we all agree that this gun is worth somewhere between $1,000 and $2,000. Most of the variability is in one’s selling skills. I am good at selling on Gunbroker, so my estimate is a little higher. Of course I personally would never pay more than $1,000, because I am making money, but there are many people looking for their first Python who get excited and bid a little high when they see others bidding, especially when there are many pretty pictures. We don’t know that the OP even plans to sell it. With or without original grips it’s a nice shooter. If he does plan to sell it, the question to ask would be “what’s the best way to sell a shooter 79 Python?”

 

Inherited is the key word - to me would mean priceless .... irreplaceable !
Keep that puppy , and even better - you can use , carry and holster without any worry of monetary value lost .

When I saw just the bic picture and title post , I said 1300 . Based on posts here with the reasoning . Was nice to see couple other were at 13 too . If you were anywhere in my state I’d fork over the cash . I want a 4” blue bad though - and I’d probably refinish it .

Maybe that’s a thought for you too !
As I said before though - this money wouldn’t make or break you ...

 

Thanks for the replies @everyone, I appreciate everyone who took the time to give me their thoughts. Honestly, I'll probably end up listing it. I have enough guns, this one(although inherited), really doesn't carry any sentimental value from the person I inherited it from(I have other items for that). I'm in Colorado myself, and think I may do better on GunBroker or somewhere online, vs going to the local gun shop. It's definitely a good shooter though, and is in 100% good shape in regards to actual functionality(shooting lol).

 

All good man , good luck with sale.

 

The highest potential sales value comes from an online retail auction, with hundreds of viewers. The lowest comes from selling wholesale to a gun shop. Everything else is in between. The scale also runs from hard to easy. Selling online you have to advertise, deal with picky buyers returns, pay fees, wait for checks to clear, find an FFL, pay him to transfer, package it, pay shipping, etc. Selling to an individual or gun shop involves handing them the gun, they had you money. How much is your time worth?

 

Gun Broker always has so many Pythons, it seems that the ones that sell are in great condition with original parts and box or ones that have a really great price. You can try but you might get around the $1300 if you price it low. Put a higher price to start and see what happens! Someone would be proud to own that but probably not at a high price for a shooter grade revolver. Auction might get more but commissions are 25-30%.

 

You must be joking abut 25%-30% commission. Gunbroker only charges 3%-5% depending on sale amount, and it is regressive. On a $1,500 sale the commission is under 4% at $58.75.

I buy and sell quite a bit on Gunbroker as an FFL. Here are some best practices:

1. Provide lots of high quality pictures (30-50) with details of all imperfections and write a detailed description. People appreciate honesty.

2. Schedule the auction to start/finish at popular time. The best is Sunday 8-10 PM Eastern. I run 14-day auctions and start/finish at 9 PM Eastern on Sunday. Best dime you can spend on Gunbroker is the 10 cents it costs to schedule a listing.

3. Pay the $2.95 to put your listing in the too 10% of “featured” listings.

4. Provide a phone number so people can reach out with questions or at least answer email questions quickly. Nothing people hate more than an anonymous seller who doesn’t respond. Making yourself real also alleviates buyers’ concerns that you are a scammer.

5. Auctions that are listed by people with A+ rating and a large number of feedback comments do the best. If you are new, you can either be diligent and build up feedback, or if you do not plan to sell on Gunbroker often, you may be better off consigning to an online seller with an FFL such as myself or others on this forum.

Now for the really big question - pricing. I run all my auctions as penny-start no-reserve. In 99% of cases I do better than starting close to a number I want. I describe it as “monkey see, monkey do” psychology. People will bid when they see others bid. If you are too risk averse, start at a reasonable low number (maybe $1,000 for this Python) that will still generate bids. Putting it at $1,500 may or not not get a bid, especially because there are so many other Pythons. Last but not least, whatever you do, avoid setting a reserve. Not only will you pay extra 2% if you sell, but reserve turns off a lot of buyers.

 

Precisely the practices that I look for when parting from my hard earned money…. Nothing more irritating and stoopid when a seller does not make it easy to reach them or, worse, don’t respond…

 

I sold a shooter grade 4' mid 60's era with original grips for 1700. Without the grips I'll probably most likely take 1300/1400.

 

WinstonWolfe-I was referencing auction houses, not Gun Broker, for the 25-30% commission. I am an FFL and have sold on Gun Broker also.

 

Sell it as is. Buying correct grips and then expecting full market value from them to be added on to the bottom line is not likely to work, since there is no box/papers/etc.

That's a nice shooter grade Python that someone is going to buy to use.