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13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First; When I cock the hammer or pull the trigger I get a distinct double click, and the pull is harder between the first click and when the hammer comes to full SA cock or drops from the trigger pull. A S&W has a continuous pull from start to hammer cock, no in between click.

Is there a problem with my DS, what is it, and how do I fix?

Second; can't find the instructions on how to modify hammer to DAO by removing the SA notch, not just 'bobbing' spur. Searched 'smithing' section, but only found alot of 'discussing' it, but not 'how to'. And please, I don't need to hear all about why not to do it; just how to do it. Not interested in checkering the top either.


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On the older type Colt DA revolvers, the first click is the cylinder locking bolt dropping back on the cylinder into the leade in front of the actual locking notch.
The second click is the bolt dropping into the locking notch, and/or the hammer reaching full cock.

To convert to DAO, (briefly).

Remove the hammer from the gun.
Use a grinder, a bench stone, or the feared Dremel tool to grind off the actual hammer cocking notch area at the bottom front of the hammer.
KEEP THE HAMMER COOL, by dipping in cool water OFTEN.

The object is to remove enough of the hammer cocking notch area that there's no way the hammer can be caught by the trigger nose.
With the cocking notch ground or stoned off the hammer cannot cock in single action and you have a DAO action.
HOWEVER, you have to leave enough of the hammer notch area to allow the trigger nose to rest on it with the hammer down.
This prevents the trigger from moving too far down, and thus too far forward.
What you want is to remove just enough of the actual hammer notch area so that if you pull the hammer back as in single action, the trigger cannot lock onto the hammer and hold it back.

If you're CAREFUL and know your stuff, you can let out the double action strut on the hammer to increase hammer fall in double action.
This is something NOT to attempt unless you thoroughly understand the issues and procedure.
The strut is "let out" by stoning the double action strut top area where it's pinned to the hammer to allow the lower working end to stick out SLIGHTLY farther.
By stoning the top area of the strut you in effect tilt the bottom of the strut out farther forward.
This increases the contact time on the hammer and this causes the hammer to move farther back when the trigger is pulled, increasing the hammer fall and increasing hammer strike on the primer.
This gives more certain ignition.

DON'T try this unless you really understand the issues because if you let the strut out too far, the hammer strut can't drop off the trigger and the action will jam and the hammer will fail to fall at all, or will catch as it attempts to drop.
Years ago supposedly, you could buy longer struts which did the same thing.

Strut let out is addressed in the Kuhnhausen Shop Manual, but not in regards to converting to DAO.
It does fully explain the issues with HOW to let the strut out, and what the problems of too much let out can be.


13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the responses. My first DA Colt. I figured out about the locking bolt by watching it for awhile.

The DAO is an embarrassing issue. Was out walking couple days after I got it back from Colt repair, there's a big snake, and the hammer spur caught in my pocket. We both went opposite direction but I almost needed a new jacket. So really thinking about hammer bob and wanted to know about going all the way with the DAO mod.

A typical late model DT with Pachy grips, it was definitely knocked around and rusted before I got it. The finish is still rough, but Colt fixed it so it shoots where pointed. Not too perfect to alter and be more trustable how I need it. And it feels way better than my Smith... just saying.

This is a really fine forum.
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