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2008 Colt Match Target Competition HBAR w/compensator,5.56 NATO,20" Barrel MT6700

6K views 29 replies 8 participants last post by  Blokey 
#1 ·
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I finally bought my first AR-15 in April! Did this come with just a Mil-Spec or better than Mil-Spec Trigger?
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#2 ·

Picture borrowed from the web (but I actually have one of this trigger set).

Check your hammer if it looks like this in my picture, Colt low mass hammer type II with notch, nickle finish, or type I without the notch.

These are the match trigger set they installed on Colt models CR6724/ CR6720 Colt Accurized Rifles and other models that they upgraded the triggers.

Usually breaks at a smooth 6 pounds, if yours have this it's better than the standard semi auto triggers.
 
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#12 ·
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I have added a Harris Bi-pod not shown, Crimson Trace CMR-206 Rail Master® Universal Green Laser Sight, Daniel Defense M-LOK® VERTICAL FOREGRIP, Vortex StrikeFire® II Red Dot, Vortex VMX-3T Magnifier, Geissele Super 42 Braided Wire Buffer Spring and Buffer Combo, H1, MAGPUL MOE® M-LOK® Hand Guard, Rifle-Length – AR15/M4, MOE® Rifle Stock. Should I replace the fixed front sight with a Low Profile Gas Block, and replace the MAGPUL Hand Guard with a Free Floating Hand-guard? I just received a AXEON OPTICS ABSOLUTE ZERO EASY RIFLE SIGHT IN DEVICE - DUAL RED LASER, but I have not tried it yet.

Thanks

Saws


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Looks like Mil Spec. What would you recommend as an upgrade? I liked the triggers on the M16A1 and M16A2 that I was issued in the Army. What about the Wilson Combat TACTICAL TRIGGER KIT, AR PLATFORM, SINGLE STAGE, SEMI-AUTO, NICKEL TEFLON, 5 3/4 LB?
 
#17 ·
Nice and good changes that you made to your personal preference, it won't be the last, most of us AR owners continuously upgrade whenever new parts and accessories are available.

I'm going to start with suggested changes that will prevent any future trouble first then followed by the next improvements that you are asking about.

First possible problem is the muzzle brake, most pinned brake without thread on the barrel failed and get launched toward the shooting range, it happens all the time.

That way of attaching a muzzle brake to the barrel is wrong technically and proven bad with all the launched brakes in the past.

If you are in a free state (no ban laws) you should have your barrel muzzle threaded, and install a similar muzzle brake or any other type you want.

If you're in a ban state have the barrel threaded, the muzzle brake pinned and the outer end of the pin welded, usually called pin and welded it is mostly accepted in most ban states, look at your local laws to be sure.

The other thing that might go bad is you replacement buffer and buffer spring, your rifle should use the longer rifle buffer spring and longer buffer for rifles.

Carbine buffer and carbine springs are shorter and should mostly be used on carbines only. Carbine buffer tube, carbine buffer spring and carbine buffer could be used on rifle length 18" to 20" barrels but never mixed with rifle and carbine parts.

For the front sight it is not necessary to replace it with a low profile gas block, it is only required if you want to use a free floating handguard.

Using a scope at over 3X magnification the front sight gets blurry like a ghost, and at higher magnification almost disappears.

Your rifle have a large pin size 0.170" diameter compared to normal mil-spec small size pins of 0.154" and the large pins trigger sets are usually slightly more money than small pin size.

I've got a Geissele two stage trigger (small pins) on my main 6920 M4 carbine that have a clean smooth trigger break of 4 pounds, it's my favorite maybe later I'll get a better Geissele SSA.

LaRue Tactical triggers are also good for less money, but make sure you look for triggers with large pins 0.170", they're available but with fewer brands than the small pins triggers.

I had been a long time Colt AR owner for around 50 years now, currently I have 4 Colt carbines and one 20" standard government profile barrel rifle.

I had a Colt AR-15A2 R6600 HBAR from 1986 up to 2001 which I mainly used for DCM/ CMP rifle matches from the mid '80s to the mid '90s.

Let us know if you have any other questions.
 
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#9 ·
Oh, n shooter - yes I’m bad , probably not even as bad as Mrs. Shooter though.
You guys are professionals, with the best training in the world - I’m amateur.
Maybe I close the gap a little in the future - when you’re in your mid eighties...and me very early sixties. Live long and prosper , my friend !
 
#16 ·
You should enjoy that new Match Target.

I bought an HBAR in 1987 and used it extensively on the National Match course of fire and shot quite a few prairie dogs with it.

After completely shooting the throat out of the barrel and suffering a severe degradation in accuracy, I rebuilt it with a new SS match barrel and upgraded the sights with a 1/4 MOA per click sight and stabilized the front sight. I've had a Krieger double stage trigger in it for many years and that stayed, but it got a new free-floating handguard with steel liner and a unique silent main spring and buffer.

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#18 ·
The Geissele spring and buffers do have 2 options.
Quiet stock spring for me = some grease, but I’m sure I still don’t shoot as good as Rudy, or Scharf. The one somewhat limited drawback with my Colt Accurized Rifle is I’m kinda limited to 55gr. because of twist. That being said , anyone I ever let shoot ( including beginners) shoots minimum 1.5” @ 100yds. in short time. This is to give them a huge confidence boost as a new shooter.
 
#21 ·
Your rifle have a rifle length buffer tube so you could use the Geissele special rifle length (longer length than carbine spring) super-42 spring.

The Geissele info said that the short carbine super 42 will not work with the long rifle buffer tube, and any short carbine buffer spring won't work on long rifle buffer tubes. You have to use rifle long buffer spring on long rifle buffer tubes.

You can use your same rifle long buffer or use the Geissele H1 or H2 buffer. Try the buffer on the ammo load you are using, if the shells are ejecting toward the front of the rifle use a heavier buffer weight. Also test if your buffer lets the bolt hold open on the last shot, if not use a lighter weight buffer until the last shot will have the bolt open.

I just wanted to add two things that you had asked about the laser, I have a LaserLyte universal bore sight and when I use it around 40 feet at the house, at the range at 50 yd I'm usually around less than 2 inches from the center of the target.

If you want to remove your front sight there are two options, the best is use the same front sight base, cut the top tower and shave the protruding sides, remove the bottom sling mount, then use new taper pins to mount on the barrel.

The other way is to use a low profile gas block and pin it to the barrel, don't use set screws even if you use thread lockers the set screws will loosen because of heat and vibration.

My father RIP was a WWII vet with the 11th Airborne US Army and my oldest son of two adult sons served in the US Navy Pacific fleet in San Diego, CA. Thanks for your service.
 
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#22 ·
Thank you so much for all of your advice! I'm such a Dummy! Can I blame it on my ADD and Dyslexia? I did not see the statement NOTE: The Super 42 is for use with Carbine length buffer tubes and is not compatible with rifle length or A5 buffer tubes/receiver extensions, a special rifle length Super-42 is available on our website. Also, I did not see the statement on the Optics Planet website. When I Emailed Geissele, Zach V from (Geissele Automatics) did not say I needed a Super 42 Rifle Length Spring, I just asked what buffer weight I needed. I'm so glad you told me about that because I have not tried it yet and it would not have worked! I can still send it back to Optics Planet.

Thanks

Rick "Saws" Hammers
Pocatello, ID
 
#24 ·

Look at the shell ejection chart that you posted, the M-16 bolt carrier is recommended for improved reliability of either carbine and rifle AR.




When you get a genuine Colt M-16 auto bolt carrier there should be a letter C mark in this location to the left side of the carrier. Current markings are smaller size and not as deep.


If those Geissele rifle super 42 spings are out of stock you could just get a Colt rifle action spring or substitute brands like BCM (Bravo Company USA), Wolff gunsprings, PSA (Palmetto State Armory) and other high quality brands (LMT (Lewis Machine & Tool), Daniel Defense, FN, LaRue Tactical, Noveske, etc).

Replace action springs about every 5,000 rounds, also together with bolt extractor spring, extractor insert, Crane O-ring, bolt extractor and bolt gas rings.

My go to genuine Colt and hard to find parts is Specialized Armament (in AZ/ TX).

Another trick for better ejection force is to use a mil-spec Crane Industry O-Ring (synthetic like rubber material) on the ejector, also a stronger chrome silicon extractor spring. A kit or kits are available at Bravo Company USA site.

It is also very important to keep your bolt assembly well lubricated with modern synthetic weapon lube.

I mainly use SLiP 2000 EWL (Extreme Weapons Lube) or Mil-Comm oil, for grease I use Mil-Comm or Tetra Gun grease.

Apply grease on your rifle action spring to reduce the "sprooing" spring noise when firing or cocking the rifle.
 
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#25 ·
I just looked at my bolt carrier and it looks like the 3rd pic M-16 bolt carrier and yes it does have a letter C mark in this location to the left side of the carrier. I guess I have seen the letter C but I didn't know what it meant.

Thanks so much for all or your advice! You are so informative you could write an article in Guns and Ammo AR-15 Magazine!
 
#28 ·
I think aero is garbage , and your Colt sp.& buffer is way better .
Here is what my SPORTER HBAR does with 62 gr. Federal AE black box, while standing.
This is my go to ammo for target or plinking , use it in my other 1/7 ‘s religiously.
I lost my 1/7 carry handle ( on the FDE) - traded for a 1/9 , but I wanted a flat top.
It shoots tighter from prone , or with a bag to rest on from bench .
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