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Discussion Starter #1
I recently purchased a 2019 Colt King Cobra... The firearm shoots well, very very nice trigger...
The fit and finish really is nice...
The rubber grip functions well but it is ugly and will be replaced with a nice walnut grip...
The firearm is accurate for its intended self defense function...

The only really issue I have ran into after just 150rds through the gun is the ejector rod. Using the any reload technique the ejector rod sticks in the crane arm. I have read there are other folks that have come across this issue.

Am I disappointed? Yes... But it doesn’t ruin the firearm in my opinion. Having worked in manufacturing I know that there will always be a few defects and this gun shoots very very well...

The real question is, how do I fix the issue?

Send the gun to Colt and wait months hoping they fix it?

Take it to a gun smith that I know will fix it?

I have even read about a guy that took knurled end and polished it off so that it will travel down into the crane arm instead of stopping at the crane arm. He gained a bit more ejector rod travel for better performance after shooting many many rounds in the same range session?

Thoughts anyone??
 

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Where are you going to get the grips? There aren't much available out there. The only wood grips I know of are the Altamont ones that come on the target version of the KC. Mine are slightly loose. Hogue doesn't make any. I called them and asked. I hope they make some. Also I haven't found any holsters yet. I guess its early for both.

I haven't had the ejector rod stick on me yet. I'm not sure if something is slightly modified in the new target or if it's a technique difference.

I'm getting accuracy that is around 3.5 inches with about 4 varieties of 38 special ammo. So far - unacceptable. That is 6 shots at 25 yards off of a solid rest. The barrel seems to lead up badly and easily. After a thorough cleaning, it put 4 shots out of 6 in less than an inch and the remaining 2 increased to a little more than two inches. I'm waiting on a new Lewis lead remover to get it squeaky clean to try again.

There is a lot to like about these new king cobras, but I have a laundry list of small changes I would make if I had anything to say about the manufacturing process.

Smoother bore if that proves to be a problem
Wider, flatter trigger
Wider hammer
Better front sight blade
Remove the mold mark on the trigger
Better grips
Better rampant colt symbol. It has some strange voids in it.

Otherwise, the finish is very nice. I've read that the frame (and cylinder?) are forged. While cleaning I noticed a small circle in each flute of the cylinder. I'm not sure what it's from. Makes me wonder how the cylinder was manufactured. The walls are very thin compared to my 686. As long as it holds up over time this is a plus to me. I really like the overall size of the gun.

Not sure it was worth 1k, but so far I'm still optimistic.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I am getting grips from Altamont as well, there is a grip pin that allows the 3”bbl King Cobra to use the same grips as the earlier 2”bbl .38spl Cobras.

As far as holsters... two companies make them at the moment. “Simply Rugged” and “Kramer Leather”. There are decent reviews for both products on YouTube etc...

As far as accuracy is concerned, I would try different loadings. There is a review by “RevolverGuy.com” and he bench tests a lot of different loadings and gets very different results. I guess barrel harmonics matter even in a 3” barrel.

I spoke with the local Gun Dealer / Gun Smith on the ejector rod issue, they want to see the gun and say they will contact Colt to see what the options are. On the phone the gunsmith all but aquised me of bending the ejectior rod... I’m not sure I could bend a stainless steel rod with hand pressure... especially one that has a cigar cutter style end. I would think I would have bruised or cut my hand / thumb if I was applying that much pressure. It looks as though the knurled end was either made too fat or not fat enough, it literally can get stuck inside the crane arm with thumb pressure.
 

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Welcome to the COLT Forum !!

Enjoy Our Community...


Sorry to hear of your problems with a NIB Colt King Cobra...

May we see some pictures of her while we await a resolution solution !?

.
 

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Any grips that fit a Colt D-frame with the short butt will work on the new King Cobra. You will have to source a frame locating pin since the Hogue grips don't use it. They're not hard to find and easy to install. I put Colt/Pachmayr Presentation grips on my King Cobra...
 

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I recently purchased a 2019 Colt King Cobra... The firearm shoots well, very very nice trigger...
The fit and finish really is nice...
The rubber grip functions well but it is ugly and will be replaced with a nice walnut grip...
The firearm is accurate for its intended self defense function...

The only really issue I have ran into after just 150rds through the gun is the ejector rod. Using the any reload technique the ejector rod sticks in the crane arm. I have read there are other folks that have come across this issue.

Am I disappointed? Yes... But it doesn’t ruin the firearm in my opinion. Having worked in manufacturing I know that there will always be a few defects and this gun shoots very very well...

The real question is, how do I fix the issue?

Send the gun to Colt and wait months hoping they fix it?

Take it to a gun smith that I know will fix it?

I have even read about a guy that took knurled end and polished it off so that it will travel down into the crane arm instead of stopping at the crane arm. He gained a bit more ejector rod travel for better performance after shooting many many rounds in the same range session?

Thoughts anyone??
I have the same issue re ejector sticking. Assuming a closed ended spring is used I suspect the moving end gets pinched while traveling up and down. Spinning the cylinder removes the problem, for a while. I've not been motivated enough to get it corrected. There maybe another cause, such as ejector rod diameter and center hole.

Re grips, if the King Cobra uses the same as the new Cobra then plain old D frames work.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here are a few pics of the issue with the ejector rod. I have competed in USPSA revolver class, I reload using the “stress fire” technique. I have ran my other revolvers moderately hard and have never seen this issue with the ejection rod before.

I have put 100-150 rds through this Colt at the range. I didn’t run the ejector even remotely as hard as I ran my Match Champion. In fact, I only tried the stress fire reload a few times at about 1/2 speed because I do not own any speed loaders for this gun. I was just trying to get used to the cylinder release as this is my 1st Colt. The rod travels freely all the way to the crane arm and then snaps into the crane arm. It does pop back out with little effort.

I am disappointed but I do plan on keeping the gun. It really is the PERFECT size for a carry revolver. Big enough to handle hot .357 loads, but small and light enough to conceal. It fits in the front pocket of my jeans just in a pocket holster, and I think it would work great in either IWB / OWB holster as well. Unlike the LCR and J Frames it has that missing 6th round. I have heard people complain about MIM parts or small size components of the internals compared to “The Real Colts” as they say... I think those claims are unfounded. I’m sure Colt uses high grade metallurgy to ensure strong components. And everyone uses MIM these days... I think this issue is a result of two parts that were on the edge of being “in spec” and when they were combined in the final assembly the fit was obviously close enough to cause this. It happens...

The question I have... do I send it to Colt to get a new ejector rod? Or, I am considering having a gun smith just polish the ejector rod and take the knurling right off. It serves no purpose to me... and it would give the rod another 1/4” of travel for better ejection. The rod would travel completely inside the crane arm like a J Frame. I suppose that would void the warranty though...

I never thought to run the ejection rod like I was under stress in the gunstore. I was too busy enjoying the trigger and comparing the size to the J & K frames...
 

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This works for me on my new Cobra. Will also fit the new KC. It’s a Herrett Shooting Ace with BK grip adapter. Also fits my older Agent as shown


2909E873-2843-466C-9F99-C1B3F77444B1.jpg

E1A86324-69FD-469E-8C1D-2F86647F1559.jpg 821C066E-F360-48E0-9882-4E4D713BBCD9.jpg
 

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I have 3 of the current generation of Colt revolvers: a 2017 Cobra, King Cobra 3", and the new KC Target. The 2 KC's are recent acquisitions I haven't yet had a chance to take to the range. A couple of observations:



  • All 3 of these revolvers have perceptible endshake out of the box, as do the half dozen examples I have been able to handle in local shops. With the cylinder held back the BC gap on all 3 of mine is .003. When moved forward the gap is less than .0015 (smallest feeler gauge I have), but I can still see light between the barrel and cylinder. I've put about 700 rounds through the Cobra so far, with no increase in endshake. I can barely see a ratchet imprint on the recoil shield, but no visible peening (Note: I haven't put any +P through it). The gun shoots better than I do.
  • The side plate on these does not appear to be "fitted" in the traditional sense -- as a result, it's possible for it to be misaligned when tightened down, leaving "ledges" under the trigger guard and near the hammer. This isn't strictly a cosmetic issue, either. My 3" KC came this way from the factory. While dry fire practicing, I found the cylinder latch was a bit tight and difficult to operate. I also noticed the occasional false trigger reset/short stroking issues others on the net have observed (FWIW, I've never once had this happen on the Cobra). Lastly the action, while "normal," didn't seem quite as smooth as on my Cobra. After removing and reattaching the side plate (with seams aligned properly), all of these issues disappeared. When I went to loosen up the side plate, I found the screws were barely torqued down at all. It was not necessary to tap the frame with a screwdriver handle -- I was able to lift it with my fingers (Note: It was not completely loose, but not nearly as tight as on a traditional revolver either). I am anxious to see if the sideplate stays put after extensive shooting.

For those wondering how the new KC Target compares with a Python size-wise, see attached pic.

IMG_4482.png
 

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Here are a few pics of the issue with the ejector rod. I have competed in USPSA revolver class, I reload using the “stress fire” technique. ...

The question I have... do I send it to Colt to get a new ejector rod? Or, I am considering having a gun smith just polish the ejector rod and take the knurling right off. It serves no purpose to me... and it would give the rod another 1/4” of travel for better ejection. The rod would travel completely inside the crane arm like a J Frame. I suppose that would void the warranty though...

I never thought to run the ejection rod like I was under stress in the gunstore. I was too busy enjoying the trigger and comparing the size to the J & K frames...
Here's what I would do so you don't have to alter your unloading technique. I'd first call Colt or write them, and explain the problem. That way they can make a modification to their design somehow. The next generation of these will be fixed, perhaps, because you informed them.

Then I would go to a gunsmith and ask them to modify your gun themselves. I'm thinking a brazed "washer" around the base of the knurling would do the trick, or they could peen it wider, etc. There has to be a good way to "stop" the rod, I've never thought about it on the older guns, but they had a screw on knob, at a larger diameter. That's what you need, a larger diameter. So a washer, or maybe they could cut the rod some, thread an old type knob, if it would fit the into the rod shroud.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just got off the phone with Colt customer service.

They informed me that they are aware of the issue. It is fixable at home by taking various grades of sandpaper / emery cloth and reducing the amount the knurled end protrudes. Just remove material until it no longer sticks. Apparently that is all their service department is going to do if you mail it to them... so you can save yourself the time and resolve the issue at home.

The knurling serves no function other than assembly. (To counter hold the rod while torquing the internal set screw). Newer KC’s have an Allen Head machined into the end of the ejector rod for the counter hold now... so I guess the knurling is astetic only at this point. And serves to functional purpose to the owner or assembly team.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Repair Update...

Ten minutes with various grades of metal polishing paper and the ejector rod operates flawlessly.

If anyone from Colt reads these forums real simple quality control would be just to eliminate the knurling all together since it serves to function to the owner. Or polish down the rough edges. It doesn’t take much work to remove the small amount of material that allows the rod to drop into the crane arm maybe 1/8” deeper and the rod will run smooth as a baby’s bottom.

I attached a pic of the finished “repair”
 

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Discussion Starter #14
New grips from Altamont.

There was a very minor amount of play with the grips installed so I used a bit of 3M sticky back felt to snug it up.

AB1D2C51-07E9-4EBA-B4E8-B383E15DCFEE_1569704786142.jpg
 

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My first attempt at putting new grips on my KC were the VZs. The first set seemed to be tight but after firing a few cylinders off 38 Special ammo they became loose. I sent them back to VZ for a replacement set and the 2'nd set was loose from the get go. I next got a set of Altamonts from a friend at Colts (the same grips they put on the Night Cobra) and they fit perfectly and have not become loose. The third time is a charm I guess.
 

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Repair Update...

Ten minutes with various grades of metal polishing paper and the ejector rod operates flawlessly.

If anyone from Colt reads these forums real simple quality control would be just to eliminate the knurling all together since it serves to function to the owner. Or polish down the rough edges. It doesn’t take much work to remove the small amount of material that allows the rod to drop into the crane arm maybe 1/8” deeper and the rod will run smooth as a baby’s bottom.

I attached a pic of the finished “repair”
Nice fix, and it looks better too!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yes the new grip pin did come from Altamont. It was very loose compared to others. I’m used to having to gently tap them in / out. This one just slid in.

Adding just a small amount of stickyback felt really snuggled up the fit nice.

I haven’t had a chance to shoot it with the new grip yet. The Altamont grip is more filling in the palm than the rubber grip. I will post an update once a get a chance to run both specials and magnums through it with the new grip
 

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New member, first post. I am the proud owner of a 1994 KC 6" stainless and am very interested in acquiring the new KC Carry. It is my understanding that Colt offers the carry in a DA/SA that does not have the bobbed hammer. I'm seeing these on Gun Broker, but Colt's website does not picture the hammered DA/SA at all.

Is there a distinct advantage to one over the other other than the draw advantage of a bobbed hammer? I'm thinking that I would prefer the "hammered" version but can't find any reviews...I know that these are a newer offering.

Thoughts, opinions??? Thanks!
 
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