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If you don’t feel like reading this review, to summarize....ITS OKAY TO BUY THE NEW PYTHON. IT’S GREAT GUN AND THANK YOU COLT FOR FINALLY BRINGING IT BACK!!!!
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2020 COLT PYTHON
First week in January of 2020 I went to gun store to buy ammo and started making conversation about the new release of the Colt Python with people at the store. The gun dealer told me his distributor promised to deliver him two 6” Pythons and if I put a $500 deposit down I’d be on wait list for the 2nd one as he already had a deposit for the first. Without hesitation I plopped my card down and made a deposit. I expected it to arrive in several months, probably by the summer. Within one week of my deposit I received a call from gun shop to come by and pickup my new Python! I was super excited even though it was not in my budget to pay it off right then. I paid MSRP and have the new 2020 Python and really happy to own it. I even bought a set of vintage Colt Python grips to complete the look and feel of the original.
I’ve now put well over 1,000 rounds through it and feel I have enough time with it to tell consumers thinking of buying it what the average joe thinks. I’m not an expert, so this report comes from a guy who just loves to shoot and own firearms. There are many on this group who I’m sure can speak in better technical terms about it...Having said that, I’ll do my best to describe my experience with a complete lack of proper terminology...so go easy on me as I try:
OVER ALL FEEL 1979 v 2020
I really love my 79’ but I’ve always babied it because I paid a lot for it and because it’s in such great shape I’d hate to scratch it. I bought my 79’ around 2012 I think (during the Walking Dead craze) so I paid a good chunk of change although not as much as what they go for now. The 20’ Python balance, weight and feel is exactly the same to my 79’, especially if you slap a set of vintage grips on them. I think, however, the 20’ may be about an ounce heavier than my 79’ but not enough to notice a difference. Because the steel is different material than my 79’ the 20’ tends to get hotter after a lot of continuous rounds. So, It can be a little annoying for what it’s worth.
TRIGGER 1979 v 2020
The only real difference is in the trigger and although it’s different it still retains the essence of the Python trigger feel...if that makes sense. In short, I think the 20’ double action pull is better than the 79’. The double action is smooth, not quite as “buttery” like the 79’, but smooth in that the pull is consistent all the way to the break whereas the double action pull on my 79’ is “buttery” but gets tighter as you continue pulling back towards the end (stacks). The single action, however, is better on my 79’... but not by a lot. I think part of the reason why I like the single action better is because the hammer is longer and has more material to grab onto with your thumb, the tread surface is better to the touch than the serrations of the 20’. The trigger return is more responsive. It bounces back quicker than the 79’ which ultimately helps in rapid fire. Overall, Although the trigger isn’t exactly like my 79’ it does seem durable and in some ways improved.
ACCURACY
I shot my 79’ next to my 20’ at paper targets to compare groups. In short, they both shoot great but I was able to achieve tighter groups with my new Python over my 79’...no BS. I’m more accurate with my 20’...don’t know why...it is what it is.
NEGATIVES
Light primer strikes
To be completely transparent, I will encounter an occasional light primer strike. I’d say it occurs one or two times out of a box of 50 rounds. So far all I’ve used 357 Fiocchi and Águila 38 special because I have a lot of it. It’s happened to both brands of ammunition so I don’t think it’s an ammo brand issue. When a light primer strike occurs I simply put the bullet aside and load it into my lever action and it fires. At home I did open the cylinder of both the 79’ and my 20’ and noticed the firing pin on my 79’ protrudes all the way out whereas my 20’ does not come all the way out. If I push the transfer bar with my finger I can get the firing pin to come out all the way. I think it has something to do with the new transfer bar system. The hammer simply does not hit the transfer bar with enough energy and it may just be the way the hammer makes contact with the transfer bar.
1979 firing pin protrudes further out
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2020 firing pin does not protrude out as far
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Cylinder Rotation
There’s been a lot of bashing going around on the internet about this issue, most notably Hickok45's video and Golden Web, and I can only speak to my gun. After about 200 rounds through it started to lock up and the cylinder stopped turning. I thought to myself, oh no, I got a lemon too!!!!...but after careful inspection I discovered the problem with my gun was due to a loose side plate. Basically the internals are held in by the side plate and when it rattles loose it can cause the internals to get a little wonky. It’s hard to detect because it looked like it was sitting flush but after removing my grips, I noticed the back screw underneath the grip was backed out causing the side plate to vibrate loose. The side plate probably moves while shooting the gun which affects the internals. In my case, the side plate lifted up slightly causing my cylinder latch to move forward exposing a little plastic sleeve behind it. If the latch moves out of place i believe it somehow causes the hand to become misaligned with the star on the cylinder because the hand rests directly behind the latch/side plate. I'M NOT A GUNSMITH but since I’ve torqued down both of the side plate screws (front and back) with a little blue lock tight I’m 100% certain I resolved the problem because I’ve been shooting it hard ever since, well over 1,000+ rounds now, and have not experienced cylinder rotation issues to date.
Cylinder Latch vibrates forward due to a loose side plate. Tighten your side plates, especially back screw behind the grips!!!!
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Customer Service
After I initially began experiencing these issues I called Colts customer service multiple times and after two or three days I finally got through. A guy named Steven Potvin gave me an RMA label and asked me to ship it to them and TAT would take approximately 4 to 6 weeks. He doesn’t speak much to the issues but instead takes down your complaints and emails you a shipping label. After resolving my side plate issue I’ve opted to keep my gun and keep shooting it until things settle down over there because there’s no telling how long I’d be without it and the light primer strike issue is so intermittent and infrequent that I don’t have the desire to part with it for the time being. I believe Steven Potvin is the ONLY guy dealing in customer service which is disappointing for a major gun manufacturer.
OVERALL
Despite the negatives I think it’s a great gun and I have no regrets buying it. I’m enjoying it and continue to shoot it. I finally have Rick Grimes gun, It’s dirty as hell right now and can’t wait to shoot it again.
![]()
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you don’t feel like reading this review, to summarize....ITS OKAY TO BUY THE NEW PYTHON. IT’S GREAT GUN AND THANK YOU COLT FOR FINALLY BRINGING IT BACK!!!!
2020 COLT PYTHON
First week in January of 2020 I went to gun store to buy ammo and started making conversation about the new release of the Colt Python with people at the store. The gun dealer told me his distributor promised to deliver him two 6” Pythons and if I put a $500 deposit down I’d be on wait list for the 2nd one as he already had a deposit for the first. Without hesitation I plopped my card down and made a deposit. I expected it to arrive in several months, probably by the summer. Within one week of my deposit I received a call from gun shop to come by and pickup my new Python! I was super excited even though it was not in my budget to pay it off right then. I paid MSRP and have the new 2020 Python and really happy to own it. I even bought a set of vintage Colt Python grips to complete the look and feel of the original.
I’ve now put well over 1,000 rounds through it and feel I have enough time with it to tell consumers thinking of buying it what the average joe thinks. I’m not an expert, so this report comes from a guy who just loves to shoot and own firearms. There are many on this group who I’m sure can speak in better technical terms about it...Having said that, I’ll do my best to describe my experience with a complete lack of proper terminology...so go easy on me as I try:
OVER ALL FEEL 1979 v 2020
I really love my 79’ but I’ve always babied it because I paid a lot for it and because it’s in such great shape I’d hate to scratch it. I bought my 79’ around 2012 I think (during the Walking Dead craze) so I paid a good chunk of change although not as much as what they go for now. The 20’ Python balance, weight and feel is exactly the same to my 79’, especially if you slap a set of vintage grips on them. I think, however, the 20’ may be about an ounce heavier than my 79’ but not enough to notice a difference. Because the steel is different material than my 79’ the 20’ tends to get hotter after a lot of continuous rounds. So, It can be a little annoying for what it’s worth.
TRIGGER 1979 v 2020
The only real difference is in the trigger and although it’s different it still retains the essence of the Python trigger feel...if that makes sense. In short, I think the 20’ double action pull is better than the 79’. The double action is smooth, not quite as “buttery” like the 79’, but smooth in that the pull is consistent all the way to the break whereas the double action pull on my 79’ is “buttery” but gets tighter as you continue pulling back towards the end (stacks). The single action, however, is better on my 79’... but not by a lot. I think part of the reason why I like the single action better is because the hammer is longer and has more material to grab onto with your thumb, the tread surface is better to the touch than the serrations of the 20’. The trigger return is more responsive. It bounces back quicker than the 79’ which ultimately helps in rapid fire. Overall, Although the trigger isn’t exactly like my 79’ it does seem durable and in some ways improved.
ACCURACY
I shot my 79’ next to my 20’ at paper targets to compare groups. In short, they both shoot great but I was able to achieve tighter groups with my new Python over my 79’...no BS. I’m more accurate with my 20’...don’t know why...it is what it is.
NEGATIVES
Light primer strikes
To be completely transparent, I will encounter an occasional light primer strike. I’d say it occurs one or two times out of a box of 50 rounds. So far all I’ve used 357 Fiocchi and Águila 38 special because I have a lot of it. It’s happened to both brands of ammunition so I don’t think it’s an ammo brand issue. When a light primer strike occurs I simply put the bullet aside and load it into my lever action and it fires. At home I did open the cylinder of both the 79’ and my 20’ and noticed the firing pin on my 79’ protrudes all the way out whereas my 20’ does not come all the way out. If I push the transfer bar with my finger I can get the firing pin to come out all the way. I think it has something to do with the new transfer bar system. The hammer simply does not hit the transfer bar with enough energy and it may just be the way the hammer makes contact with the transfer bar.
1979 firing pin protrudes further out
2020 firing pin does not protrude out as far
Cylinder Rotation
There’s been a lot of bashing going around on the internet about this issue, most notably Hickok45's video and Golden Web, and I can only speak to my gun. After about 200 rounds through it started to lock up and the cylinder stopped turning. I thought to myself, oh no, I got a lemon too!!!!...but after careful inspection I discovered the problem with my gun was due to a loose side plate. Basically the internals are held in by the side plate and when it rattles loose it can cause the internals to get a little wonky. It’s hard to detect because it looked like it was sitting flush but after removing my grips, I noticed the back screw underneath the grip was backed out causing the side plate to vibrate loose. The side plate probably moves while shooting the gun which affects the internals. In my case, the side plate lifted up slightly causing my cylinder latch to move forward exposing a little plastic sleeve behind it. If the latch moves out of place i believe it somehow causes the hand to become misaligned with the star on the cylinder because the hand rests directly behind the latch/side plate. I'M NOT A GUNSMITH but since I’ve torqued down both of the side plate screws (front and back) with a little blue lock tight I’m 100% certain I resolved the problem because I’ve been shooting it hard ever since, well over 1,000+ rounds now, and have not experienced cylinder rotation issues to date.
Cylinder Latch vibrates forward due to a loose side plate. Tighten your side plates, especially back screw behind the grips!!!!
Customer Service
After I initially began experiencing these issues I called Colts customer service multiple times and after two or three days I finally got through. A guy named Steven Potvin gave me an RMA label and asked me to ship it to them and TAT would take approximately 4 to 6 weeks. He doesn’t speak much to the issues but instead takes down your complaints and emails you a shipping label. After resolving my side plate issue I’ve opted to keep my gun and keep shooting it until things settle down over there because there’s no telling how long I’d be without it and the light primer strike issue is so intermittent and infrequent that I don’t have the desire to part with it for the time being. I believe Steven Potvin is the ONLY guy dealing in customer service which is disappointing for a major gun manufacturer.
OVERALL
Despite the negatives I think it’s a great gun and I have no regrets buying it. I’m enjoying it and continue to shoot it. I finally have Rick Grimes gun, It’s dirty as hell right now and can’t wait to shoot it again.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
