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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I have purchased my 1st revolver ever, a .22LR Colt Official Police revolver. It is very nice but exhibits a tendancy to not fire all the rounds in the chambers. With Winchester Dynapoints in Single action mode, all is well. Other varieties of ammo (Wolf, Aquila) will misfire 1 round of 6 occasionally. In double action mode, I will get occasional misfires in the Winchester, and only 1/2 of the rounds chambered in the other two brands will fire. If I keep pulling the trigger to the rounds that have not gone off, the second time around they fire. I have also noticed that the hammer does not go as far back in DA mode compared to SA mode. Is this a firing pin problem or a hammer spring problem? Or something else?

Also, how do I get the sideplate off? The two screws come out just fine but I can't seem to release the cylinder latch. What do I need to do here to make sure she's clean on the inside?

Thanks for your help.

Mike Doerner
 

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The Searcher
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The cylinder latch will come off with the sideplate, but it is easier to disassemble and reassemble if you first remove the crane and cylinder. Proper fitting preferably hollow ground screw driver blades are recommended to avoid screw damage (as you probably already know). If the sideplate is reluctant, the preferred method is to tap sharply on the opposite side of the frame with something non-damaging like a wooden hammer handle. I also protect the frame with a cloth. In other words, no prying! HTH, but I expect additional replies. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

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Mike; Welcome to the Colt Forum.

I have "a few" Colt .22 revolvers,and have had few,if any, misfires(except with bum ammo).

While it sounds like a weak main spring at first thought,lets try a couple of cleanings.

I have seen some .22s have dirt or crud on the lip of the recessed chamber holes. Even though the shells go into the chambers,and seem fully "in",and the cylinder will still revolve(rims not rubbing on rear of frame) the FIRST strike of the hammer,will drive the shell into the recess a little more,and a second strike will fire it,as it is seated rim to the lip.

Look at the 6 lips where the rims fit,and get a very sharp hard stick with a small "tip" and see if you can remove any "crud" from these recesses.

Next using something hard,but flexible,like thin wire,check that the hole in the frame for the firing pin to pass through is "clean-as is the "slot" beneath it.

If this doesn't work remove the side plate as A1A says,but I'd add to keep my thumb over the latch so as not to loose the spring(and plunger if equipped).

The main spring can be weakened by amateur gunsmiths trying to lighten it by "bending". New springs are available,running aroun $10-15.

I would NOT try to disassemble the gun any further than the sideplate,grips(stocks) and crane and cylinder(watch you don't loose the spring and plunger from inside that screw-IF the gun is a 1947,or later model).

A good spray cleaner,like automotive brake cleaner, should flush out MOST of any "crud"(but usually if this is severe,cylinder won't rotate to cock).

If you have any difficulty putting sideplate and latch back on,give a post here;it can be a little tricky.

Good Luck,and hope this helps.

Bud /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That makes sense. Both the Wolf and Aquila were "match" ammo with the thick wax coating, and were very snug in the cylinders. The Winchester was copper washed and did not exhibit this problem until I was mixing them between firings. I'll give her a good cleaning today.....

Mike Doerner
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
[ QUOTE ]
The cylinder latch will come off with the sideplate, but it is easier to disassemble and reassemble if you first remove the crane and cylinder.

[/ QUOTE ]

How do I remove the crane and cylinder? Is that the screw on the opposite side of the frame?

Mike Doerner
 

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The Searcher
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The crane can be removed by removing what appears as a fairly large screw on the right side of the revolver although it is actually a threaded cap containing a spring and the crane detent. They are parts 7,8 and 9 on this exploded view. http://www.e-gunparts.com/productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=0660zOFFICIAL%20POLICE%20-%20E%20FRAME Then open the crane and align the cylinder flutes to allow the crane to be moved forward without interference. When replacing the sideplate, ensure that the latch pin (29 in the schematic) is fully in place with the small pin sticking up to engage the latch. Assemble the latch to the sideplate and hold it back about flush with the front of the sideplate so the hole in the latch will engage the latch pin with the sideplate aligned to drop in place. Can be tricky the first time, but is much easier with the crane removed. HTH /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
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