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Any way to tell (without a letter from Colt) whether or not a Python is Bright Stainless finish and not just a stainless Python that has been polished to look BSTS? Thanks!
 

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Any way to tell (without a letter from Colt) whether or not a Python is Bright Stainless finish and not just a stainless Python that has been polished to look BSTS? Thanks!
The original box is best indicator.
Otherwise, finish should be perfect looking, hammer & trigger should be BSTS and match.
Topstrap should remain matte stainless.
 

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Usually just the quality of the finish should tell. I have never seen one that was polished aftermarket that you couldn't tell the difference from the real deal.

Now, many revolvers have made their way back to Colt over the years for conversion and i'm sure there are more Brights out there now than what Colt actually made. If there is no box, I don't see what it matters really. Done before or after leaving the factory without the Key compenent of the box, does it affect value??? Not in my opinion.
 

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Now, many revolvers have made their way back to Colt over the years for conversion and i'm sure there are more Brights out there now than what Colt actually made. If there is no box, I don't see what it matters really. Done before or after leaving the factory without the Key compenent of the box, does it affect value??? Not in my opinion.
To me, yes.
 

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One indication of a home polish job is that on satin finish Pythons Colt doesn't remove all tiny machine marks.
If you look around features like the recoil shields and the cylinder stop on the side plate, you'll see small machine marks left.

On a factory polish BSS all those tiny marks are polished off, leaving a perfect mirror finish.
In other words, don't look at the shine, look UNDER the shine for machine marks.
 

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Indications of a re-nickel are similar to signs of a re-blue job.

Faded out stamps, particularity the Colt horse.
Rounded off edges and corners that should be flat.
Ripples in the flats caused by poor quality polishing.
Sharp defining edges that are blurred. As example where the side of a slide meets the rounded top. The line should be sharp. A bad polish job will cause the line to be sharp in some places, blurred out in others.
Dished out holes.

Most of these are caused by a ham-handed polisher using incorrect polishing gear.
 

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Indications of a re-nickel are similar to signs of a re-blue job.

Faded out stamps, particularity the Colt horse.
Rounded off edges and corners that should be flat.
Ripples in the flats caused by poor quality polishing.
Sharp defining edges that are blurred. As example where the side of a slide meets the rounded top. The line should be sharp. A bad polish job will cause the line to be sharp in some places, blurred out in others.
Dished out holes.

Most of these are caused by a ham-handed polisher using incorrect polishing gear.
Thanks,
 

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I just got my SS Python back from polishing and I would bet you would have a hard time telling it from a BSS. I will post pics tomorrow when I can take pics in natural light as it is too darn hard to take pics of this thing otherwise
 

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I just got my SS Python back from polishing and I would bet you would have a hard time telling it from a BSS. I will post pics tomorrow when I can take pics in natural light as it is too darn hard to take pics of this thing otherwise
Where did you send it for polish?
 
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