The Python is blued with ordinary hot salts gun bluing chemical as used by virtually every maker in the world.
The Python's mirror-like deep BLUE is due solely to the amount of hand polishing done to the metal BEFORE the gun is blued.
The only difference between a satin blue-black finish as used on a Ruger and the deep blue of the Python IS the polishing.
When other guns have been assembled, inspected, test fired, boxed and have been shipped from the factory, the Python was still in the hands of a master polisher being polished with finer and finer polishing media.
To have your Python re-blued, you'll need to either return it to Colt, or find a refinishing service that has the skills and experience to do that level of polishing.
Polishers with that kind of skill and experience are RARE so take care who you trust. VERY few of even the professional refinishing services have people who are capable of doing a Python without botching it.
For this reason, unless it REALLY needs to be re-blued, I suggest leaving it alone.
Better a Python with a worn factory finish, than a Python some heavy-handed polisher rounded off the sharp edges, dished-out the holes, left waves on the flat surfaces, and blurred out the lettering.
Pythons are VERY difficult to polish correctly, and VERY easy to ruin.
Yes ,as 'defaris, said for the most part, BUT there have been changes in the formulation of the bluing salts and how the different companies use 'propietary' ways of the process. Many of the changes were done because of the 'EPA', OSHA but mainly "cost". They always want to "save " money , cut costs , time ,etc and still get the gun out.
Yes the "high polish" is the secret, bUT the guys who can do it and do it well are few and far bewtween. As 'defaris' said ,when done 'wrong' the edges are rolled, the holes are dished, the flats are wavy and so on. Takes time and skill.
Many of the solutions do not use the "old" nitre compound in them and are more 'black' than blue. I have seen even the 'black oxides' no longer have the 'blue' crystals in them.
Yes, you can still get or make the nitre blues or even do it the "rust blue" method and get some GREAT blue jobs, but again is hard to find someone to do this and pay the price.
I've been told that much of what Colt is doing today is "jobbed out", for sure the 'plating' but it is NOT the same 'color' (hue) of the old "Royal Blue" and will never be.
As for the 'others', many use the 'Dulite' formulas and like the darker , I think it's black oxide myside but is MORE durable , longer lasting, and easier to do/use. Again ,time/cost savings, besides they're more forgiving and cover a multitude of "sins" in the prep.
This is only my experience and what I have seen and done over the past 38 years having had 3 different gun shops,specializing in refinish and restorations, trained at Dan Wesson, S&W, and High Standard.
Bottom line is when a gun is "properly reblued" it will NOT look like it was. So if you see an nice looking 60's vintage Python, that LOOKS great , but the color is "wrong/different for the vintage", YOU will know! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
Don, yes, I've seen that gun over on the other Forum. Have also seen some of Fords work in the past and they will do an "excellent" job, though I have to admit , just a tad too high polish, when compared to the same 'vintage' gun.They do have nice coloring too, I like it.
You didn't wax that by chance did you?
Great photo by the way! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I wax all my guns. Fords offers the 'regular' polish blue, which is a wonderful option for the 'factory' look many owners need.
This old beast was a fun-gun thing, making an old HD with no significant provenance into what I wish S & W would have made. This one is an everyday shooter, and, believe it or not, the finish is more durable than any of my factory-original guns.
The waxes I prefer are Rennaissance and Colinite # 845. Many gun museums use Renaissance, and neither leaves any significant 'wax buildup'. Thanks for the kind words!