Most any of the "copper Fouling removing" type cleaners like Hoppe's Benchrest 9 Copper Solvent, Shooter's Choice, Butch's Bore Shine, Accubore, or JB Bore Paste will work well.
To clean with a liquid solvent, use a bronze or synthetic brush (NO stainless steel EVER)on a good stainless or coated rod, WITH a muzzle protector.
Use an eye dropper or hobby paint transfer bulb to apply solvent so you don't contaminate the solvent by dipping dirty brushes in the bottle.
Run the brush with plenty of solvent down the bore about 20 times.
Run 2 patches soaked with solvent down the bore in ONE pass. (Pumping the patch up and down the bore really doesn't do much).
Allow the bore to soak a 1/2 hour or so, UNLESS the bottle warns against this.
SOME solvents like Sweet's 7.62 specifically warn about allowing the solvent to remain in the bore too long.
Wet a CLEAN patch and run it slowly down the bore and out the end in ONE pass.
If the patch comes out the end with blue or green stains on it, this is an indication there's still copper in the bore.
Allow to soak another 1/2 hour, and continue until a patch comes out with no stains.
If you use a safe solvent like Hoppe's or one of the other's listed you can even cork the bore, stand the gun upright, fill the bore with solvent and let it stand overnight, in an extreme case.
Be aware that what may appear to be copper fouling near the muzzle, often is just slight discoloration of the steel, and isn't really copper.
In this case NO amount of cleaning will remove this.
The best indication of copper fouling is the blue and green stains on the patch.
Another thing to remember, pumping a clean DRY patch up and down a clean bore will often show black stains on the patch.
This is not fouling, it's steel stains caused by friction against the patch.
[This message has been edited by dfariswheel (edited 04-22-2005).]