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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, my first post. What is the likelihood that a bolt could be broken during shipping? I made a recent supposedly NIB Diamondback purchase, but the bolt was broken when it arrived. The seller claimed everything was perfect when it left his store. At first, I thought it's possible that USPS may have dropped the box, and the shock forced the cylinder to swing-out that broke the bolt. Then, after some thought, the cylinder latch pin was in-place to prevent the cylinder from any swing movement.

Also, what is the best way to tell if a gun has been re-blued? I have read from the threads that poor re-blued job showed rusty-red discoloring (I have three spots with one about the size of a dime on the frame, and a purple latch and a plum cylinder).

Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 

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Welcome to the Forum-and sorry to hear about your bad experience. With my lack of luck,reason I will only buy/sell face to face. Yes,I miss out on some nice guns,but at this stage of my life,I don't need the extra stress of trying to get satisfaction from a distant seller!

You did not say where the bolt was broken. Is it just the tip,where it come up through the frame slot to engage 1 of the 6 cylinder notches?? If it is just the tip,AND 1 of the 6 notches seems gouged etc.,a bad drop MIGHT have caused this during shipping-but it is doubtful.

As far as the "reblue",without seeing the gun "in person",or really sharp photos,I for one,can't say about the reblue. If there is also evidence of weak markings(the Colt /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gifony: by the cylinder latch,is usually an indicator,and obvious polish marks,and evidence of firing at front of cylinder and residue inside the top strap front & rear,then it "ain't new in the box".

Diamondbacks were premium guns,and usually left Hartford in nearly perfect condition.

Good Luck,and hope you are able to resolve the issues with the seller with a minimum of hassle!

Bud
 

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Spotting a quality re-blue can be difficult, but things to look out for are:

When lettering is applied to the gun a roller engraving wheel is used to press the marks in.
This leaves raised ridges around the stamps from the pressure of the roller. These ridges can be seen and felt.
If the ridges are gone, it's likely been re-blued and the ridges were polished off.

Look for ripples or wavy areas in the frame flats, and down the barrel.

Look for dished-out screw holes.

Look for rounded-off sharp edges, especially on the barrel top rib.
On factory-new Colt's these ribs are typically quite sharp.

Look for excessive "grain" marks in the metal UNDER the blue.
When guns are polished these grain marks are left from the abrasive coated polishing wheels.
Colt's like the Diamondback will have few area with much grain showing since they were polished with much finer grit compounds.
Another indication if a re-blue is heavier grain marks in some areas, indicating that the gun was not polished as much in difficult areas.

Colt revolvers, especially Pythons and Diamondbacks have a deep BLUE color. NOT black, or even glossy black.

Look for signs of over-polishing around bead blasted surfaces. When re-bluing, it's very easy to intrude on a bead blasted area like around the top strap and top of the barrel.

As for the broken bolt, it'd take a HELL of a whack to break the bolt in shipping, and this would leave a cylinder notch badly damaged.
I see no way the cylinder could rotate or move out and break a bolt without showing signs of damage to the container and the gun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you for the quick responses.

Lonewolf: The mailing and styrofoam boxes are in excellent condition with no visible damages. The bolt broke off just a hair below the frame. The broken tip is a little more than 1/8 inch long. All 6 notches have equally slight wear marks. No one notch has significant damage; however, there seems to be a slight scratch by the broken bolt on the right side of the frame. Since the cylinder turns into the frame, it leads me to believe the bolt was push against the frame with the cylinder turning away from the frame when it broke. Is this possible? Also, there seems to be vise teeth marks right above the forcing cone and teeth mark scratches on both side of the frame by the forcing cone as well.

Dfariswheel: It has almost all the characteristics as you have described: dished-out screw holes, large grain marks in difficult areas, "rounded" edges, even one of the round stubby knob on the right (not sure what it is) is polished almost flat. Color is less shiny and yes, almost black when compared to my Python, but not 100% sure if it's black. It's definitely darker than my Python.

As for refund, the seller refused (partial and full), claiming the gun left his store NIB, and these flaws (scratches and discoloring) were not there as shown on his pics. I took similar pics and emailed to him which also showed no flaws, but they are there. He still refused and claimed NIB gun. The thread "Where's she gonna stop (Python Price)" lead me to S&W forum this morning. According to the forum, this seller buys used gun and resells them at LNIB or NIB condition. This is possibly the case for my gun.

I appreciated all the great info. Thank you.
 
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