PS I have tried to research this already, and if this has been exhaused in another thread, forgive me. Feel free to post a link to that one. I have read the article on cylinder and slides website, but I am needing something more specific I believe.
Cleaning / Lubing Colt double action internals
Recently acquired a Colt OMT and wanting to know how to properly clean / lube internals. The trigger is very heavy / stiff and am wanting to make sure everything is as it should be inside.
First, I know that disassembly is not recommended. I know how to properly and correctly remove sideplate. Is there a way I can clean out and lube all the parts without further disassembly (than just removing the sideplate)? I am convinced that a good cleaning will improve the trigger. If this was a more recent gun, I would probably leave it alone. Being as how it was made over 70+ years ago, who knows what crud, or residual grease is caked onto the moving parts. While I dont mind shooting the gun in single action, it seems a shame for such a fine firearm to be at 50% capacity.
My idea (subject to change) is to spray out the inside of the internals with eezox to hopefully remove all crud and gunk. Then to gently blow out excess oil with air compressor. A light coat should still remain even with blowing it otut. Then I got some good grease from Brownells called Action Lube Plus in the mail today. I want to put this on the parts that should be greased.
First of all, is my idea of how to proceed a proper one?
Second of all, if it is, where I should I put the grease?
First, I know that disassembly is not recommended. I know how to properly and correctly remove sideplate. Is there a way I can clean out and lube all the parts without further disassembly (than just removing the sideplate)? I am convinced that a good cleaning will improve the trigger. If this was a more recent gun, I would probably leave it alone. Being as how it was made over 70+ years ago, who knows what crud, or residual grease is caked onto the moving parts. While I dont mind shooting the gun in single action, it seems a shame for such a fine firearm to be at 50% capacity.
My idea (subject to change) is to spray out the inside of the internals with eezox to hopefully remove all crud and gunk. Then to gently blow out excess oil with air compressor. A light coat should still remain even with blowing it otut. Then I got some good grease from Brownells called Action Lube Plus in the mail today. I want to put this on the parts that should be greased.
First of all, is my idea of how to proceed a proper one?
Second of all, if it is, where I should I put the grease?
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Kdave21, yes you should spray Eezox into the action. First, unload the revolver and remove the stocks. Next, liberally spray Eezox into every opening - up the gripframe, into the area around the hammer and the trigger (both hammer up and hammer down). The Eezox should run out of various openings, and most likely you will see brown "gunk" coming out of the revolver. I then wait for the Eezox to dry, and carefully wipe down the revolver. Eezox, when wet, is a solvent. Eezox, when dry, is a pretty good lubricant as well as rust preventative, so there is no need to apply any grease or oil. I like to finish the cleaning with one to three coats of Renaissance Wax. My guess is that blowing compressed air all over and into the revolver would hurt nothing and would speed up the process.
While the stocks are off, consider washing them in warm water using Murphy's Oil Soap, let dry, then saturate with Pledge Furnish Polish, wipe down, let dry, then apply one to three coats of Renaissance Wax (wipe on a small amount, let dry, then wipe or polish off) and finally reinstall the stocks. Make sure to use the right size hollow ground screwdriver for stock removal/installation.
This cleaning regime will clean and protect the revolver from rust, and will frequenlty make a heavy/stiff trigger operate the way a Colt trigger is supposed to operate, or a stiffly rotating cylinder rotate freely, or a tight crane made to operate properly. If something is wrong mechanically with the revolver, of course a cleaning and lubrication regime will not fix the problem.
While the stocks are off, consider washing them in warm water using Murphy's Oil Soap, let dry, then saturate with Pledge Furnish Polish, wipe down, let dry, then apply one to three coats of Renaissance Wax (wipe on a small amount, let dry, then wipe or polish off) and finally reinstall the stocks. Make sure to use the right size hollow ground screwdriver for stock removal/installation.
This cleaning regime will clean and protect the revolver from rust, and will frequenlty make a heavy/stiff trigger operate the way a Colt trigger is supposed to operate, or a stiffly rotating cylinder rotate freely, or a tight crane made to operate properly. If something is wrong mechanically with the revolver, of course a cleaning and lubrication regime will not fix the problem.
kdave21, I thank for asking the question and Collects thank you for your reply. Eezox sounds exactly what I need for some of my older firearms and there is a Eesox dealer just down the Interstate from me.
Eezox is one of the best. Multiple examples of steel subjected to salts ,acids ,etc. Various top-line lubes and protectants were used. Steel coated with Eezox was visably the least corroded. [ A TEST ON THE WEB; saw about the same ...pics in a magazine]
Thanks Collects, and others for participating in this conversation. I have doused the inside with eezox, and it is literally already quite a bit improved, amazing really. Its still not really where I want it, but Im getting there. Its resting under a thick coat of eezox as we speak. I am wondering if part of the stiffness is due to some parts issues, maybe, maybe not. I have started a new thread in smithing as this is not so much a cleaning question anymore as it is mechanical question.
That being said, I am still wanting to learn as much as possible about cleaning revolvers, especially if anyone has any thoughts on adding grease to the various moving parts (i.e. if you WERE to put grease in the innards, where specifically would you put it??
That being said, I am still wanting to learn as much as possible about cleaning revolvers, especially if anyone has any thoughts on adding grease to the various moving parts (i.e. if you WERE to put grease in the innards, where specifically would you put it??
This is one of the more recent threads on lubrication just FYI:
http://www.coltforum.com/forums/colt-smithing/36513-gun-lube.html
http://www.coltforum.com/forums/colt-smithing/36513-gun-lube.html
Grease points for Colt DA revolvers are as follows:
On the front and back side of the DA strut on the hammer.
On the single action notch of the hammer and the flat ledge just above it.
On the rear area of the hammer skirt where the rebound lever rebounds the hammer.
On the top, bottom and sear face of the trigger.
On the front edge and outside of the hand.
On the slot inside of the hand where the rebound lever rides.
On the top of the rebound where the lower leg of the mainspring rides.
On the two hooks of the mainspring.
On the front and back side of the DA strut on the hammer.
On the single action notch of the hammer and the flat ledge just above it.
On the rear area of the hammer skirt where the rebound lever rebounds the hammer.
On the top, bottom and sear face of the trigger.
On the front edge and outside of the hand.
On the slot inside of the hand where the rebound lever rides.
On the top of the rebound where the lower leg of the mainspring rides.
On the two hooks of the mainspring.
This is exactly what I was hoping for. I have looked all over the internet and not found this list. Thanks dfariswheel.Grease points for Colt DA revolvers are as follows:
On the front and back side of the DA strut on the hammer.
On the single action notch of the hammer and the flat ledge just above it.
On the rear area of the hammer skirt where the rebound lever rebounds the hammer.
On the top, bottom and sear face of the trigger.
On the front edge and outside of the hand.
On the slot inside of the hand where the rebound lever rides.
On the top of the rebound where the lower leg of the mainspring rides.
On the two hooks of the mainspring.
I lube all my guns with a moly paste. www.tsmoly.com its the ts-70 moly i'm using.
It will smooth out a rough action, lessen the trigger pull by up to 50% right away and more as it works into the pores of the metal. Moly will eliminate all wear, reduce friction, prevent galling, does not attract dirt and fights corrosion.
It will smooth out a rough action, lessen the trigger pull by up to 50% right away and more as it works into the pores of the metal. Moly will eliminate all wear, reduce friction, prevent galling, does not attract dirt and fights corrosion.
Dfariswheel, All my parts have been cleaned and are ready for lube and reassembly. Before I lube the parts you instructed, I want to make sure I understand exactly what you mean. I am still learning the lingo. I am attaching photos, each with numbers drawn in which correspond to the points you indicated to make sure I know what you are talking about. Please correct me where I am wrong. Hopefully this will be helpful to someone else also...
1. On the front and back side of the DA strut on the hammer.
2. On the single action notch of the hammer and the flat ledge just above it.
3. On the rear area of the hammer skirt where the rebound lever rebounds the hammer.
4. On the top, bottom and sear face of the trigger.
5. On the front edge and outside of the hand.
6. On the slot inside of the hand where the rebound lever rides.
7. On the top of the rebound where the lower leg of the mainspring rides.
8. On the two hooks of the mainspring.
Couple of follow up questions,
A. on Point #1, how much grease do you put between the strut and the hammer, a lot, a little? (Assuming I am calling the right part the strut).
B. In general, are we talking a "light" application of grease on most parts?
I wasnt sure about #3 that is why I have the question mark in the photo, also I didnt photograph the mainspring hooks, but I know what you are talking about on that one.. View attachment 22343 View attachment 22344 View attachment 22345 View attachment 22346 View attachment 22347
1. On the front and back side of the DA strut on the hammer.
2. On the single action notch of the hammer and the flat ledge just above it.
3. On the rear area of the hammer skirt where the rebound lever rebounds the hammer.
4. On the top, bottom and sear face of the trigger.
5. On the front edge and outside of the hand.
6. On the slot inside of the hand where the rebound lever rides.
7. On the top of the rebound where the lower leg of the mainspring rides.
8. On the two hooks of the mainspring.
Couple of follow up questions,
A. on Point #1, how much grease do you put between the strut and the hammer, a lot, a little? (Assuming I am calling the right part the strut).
B. In general, are we talking a "light" application of grease on most parts?
I wasnt sure about #3 that is why I have the question mark in the photo, also I didnt photograph the mainspring hooks, but I know what you are talking about on that one.. View attachment 22343 View attachment 22344 View attachment 22345 View attachment 22346 View attachment 22347
Sorry your pictures don't work.
Apply just a dab of grease to all areas. You just need a light coat.
I use a small pocket screwdriver as a grease applicator.
Apply just a dab of grease to all areas. You just need a light coat.
I use a small pocket screwdriver as a grease applicator.
You got it.
Technically the double action strut is called the "hammer strut" by Colt, the mainspring link on the rear is called the "Hammer stirrup"
Technically the double action strut is called the "hammer strut" by Colt, the mainspring link on the rear is called the "Hammer stirrup"
Looks like a few of those parts could use a little "smoothing"...eh dfariswheel?
I was cycling some of My Colt and S&W actions yesterday, and I simply cannot believe how buttery smooth My Colt Diamondback's DA pull is, since following the procedure You posted for slickin' up Colt V-spring actions.
Thanks again! Wish that I had a few more V-spring Colts here to tinker with.
I was cycling some of My Colt and S&W actions yesterday, and I simply cannot believe how buttery smooth My Colt Diamondback's DA pull is, since following the procedure You posted for slickin' up Colt V-spring actions.
Thanks again! Wish that I had a few more V-spring Colts here to tinker with.
DFW,
Thanks for confirming this. I dont want to take this apart very often so I want to make sure I do the job right the first time (thats why its been sitting in pieces on workbench for a while now!).
Thanks for confirming this. I dont want to take this apart very often so I want to make sure I do the job right the first time (thats why its been sitting in pieces on workbench for a while now!).
A question for DFW or Coltstar... What is this post about "slicking up v-spring actions" that was mentioned? Is this something I should try, and if so, where is the thread? I went through all of your started threads DFW and didnt see it...Looks like a few of those parts could use a little "smoothing"...eh dfariswheel?
I was cycling some of My Colt and S&W actions yesterday, and I simply cannot believe how buttery smooth My Colt Diamondback's DA pull is, since following the procedure You posted for slickin' up Colt V-spring actions.
A comment on my own question...
I have some basic skills, but am no gunsmith. I have no caliper gauges, although I could purchase one if needed. Curious to know your thoughts if this is something that an amateur who is willing to take their time and be careful should / could attempt successfully.Is this something I should try
If you'd like to do it, I'd recommend buying the Jerry Kuhnhausen shop manual on the Colt's DA revolvers, volume one.
This shows everything.
I'd also recommend buying a 6 inch ceramic stone.
If you ask A1A he'll do a search for the post on what to smooth up, although I didn't go into all that much detail. The book is much better and about the best money a Colt owner can spend.
Buy it from Brownell's or Midway.
This shows everything.
I'd also recommend buying a 6 inch ceramic stone.
If you ask A1A he'll do a search for the post on what to smooth up, although I didn't go into all that much detail. The book is much better and about the best money a Colt owner can spend.
Buy it from Brownell's or Midway.
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
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