Cleaning / Lubing Colt double action internals

8203 Views 44 Replies 10 Participants Last post by RDak, May 1, 2012

11866

Discussion Starter · Mar 21, 2012

Recently acquired a Colt OMT and wanting to know how to properly clean / lube internals. The trigger is very heavy / stiff and am wanting to make sure everything is as it should be inside.

First, I know that disassembly is not recommended. I know how to properly and correctly remove sideplate. Is there a way I can clean out and lube all the parts without further disassembly (than just removing the sideplate)? I am convinced that a good cleaning will improve the trigger. If this was a more recent gun, I would probably leave it alone. Being as how it was made over 70+ years ago, who knows what crud, or residual grease is caked onto the moving parts. While I dont mind shooting the gun in single action, it seems a shame for such a fine firearm to be at 50% capacity.

My idea (subject to change) is to spray out the inside of the internals with eezox to hopefully remove all crud and gunk. Then to gently blow out excess oil with air compressor. A light coat should still remain even with blowing it otut. Then I got some good grease from Brownells called Action Lube Plus in the mail today. I want to put this on the parts that should be greased.

First of all, is my idea of how to proceed a proper one?

Second of all, if it is, where I should I put the grease?

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ColtStar

· #41 · Apr 29, 2012

kDave21, where are You located?
I'm in SW Florida, and if You're nearby, I'd gladly lend some assistance, if possible.

Sorry for the intrusion folks.......

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11866

Discussion Starter · #42 · Apr 29, 2012 (Edited)

Not to interupt, but, this started with the OP wanting to thoroughly clean his OMT and he still didn't like the pull so it went from lube to disassemble to a bigger problem and now maybe to Colt for repair? My caveat is I'm too OCD when I clean my Colts and I DO understand the need to feel your internals were clean and properly lubed BUT perhaps the disassembly could have been a little over the edge in this case. Gunsmithing an OMT isn't for the faint of heart unless you've got dfariswheel sitting at your kitchen table (as he's one person I'd trust to do the work). Yeah, I know some members think it's not rocket science and all that BUT...maybe it's brain surgery All this IMHO

Well I know many reading this thread are thinking, "What an idiot, he should know better than to take a Colt apart." It's true, I started with just wanting to spray some eezox in there and clean with a q-tip, but that did not do much. I decided to lube it up as the trigger was one of the heaviest, stiffest triggers I have ever felt, which did not line up with my research on the OMT. The tip of my finger literally started to hurt after about 15 pulls due to the stiffness combined with the checkering on the trigger face.

It is getting too complicated to go into everything I have done, and why I have done it, but simply put I have done nothing outside of Dfariswheels or Kuhnhausens guidance, treading extremely lightly. I can confidently say, I did not think disassembly or assembly itself was overly complicated. In fact I feel kind of proud that I can do it pretty easily now, as I have had to do it about 15 times in trying to figure this out!

It is my personal belief that disassembly or assembly in and of itself should not affect function of gun if done properly and no parts are modified. The mainspring had to go, when I compared it to the replacement, it was much different shaped, and I could tell the old one had been messed with. I think it was a good decision to replace it as it has improved the trigger pull immensely, and with the addition of some Brownells action lube, it now feels "almost" similar to a friends k-22 on the sweetness factor. I also am thinking there may have been a problem before I ever disassembled it. I will never know as I had never fired it before, and every time I pulled the trigger, I had the cylinder open as to avoid any damage from dry firing it. I never thought to watch and see whether the bolt dropped every time I pulled the trigger.

Im trying to find time to work some more on this project. If its a no-go, and I can save up some pennies, I will probably be sending it off to Cylinder and slide or somewhere like that if I can justify spending the money. C&S says they have a nine month wait right now, so of course would like to start with "simple" (haha) solutions first.

I'd gladly lend some assistance, if possible.

Mighty kind of you! Gonna be in IA anytime soon?

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MtnSpur

· #43 · Apr 29, 2012

KDave...how far are you from Polk City, IA?.... One of our forum members hails from around those parts and is a gunsmith that might be able to help you out. I'm not offering up his name as that wouldn't be polite but if he sees this thread/reply he might PM you

or I'll PM him and ask if he's available to help

.

Please don't take my earlier comment as criticism I was just trying to follow the steps and probably would have done the same thing. I've had my share of "duh moments" where I tried to put a sideplate back on not realizing the hand was out of position on the rebound lever and it took me an hour to figure it out (well I was tired and a bit anxious at the time). A call to a fellow member helped cause he said "step away from the gun, relax, and think through the process". It was so simple and I felt extremely stupid as I'd popped many a sideplate on a colt or two over the last year and a half

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11866

Discussion Starter · #44 · Apr 30, 2012

Please don't take my earlier comment as criticism

None taken

Besides, I was a bit crazy to launch into this....!!

how far are you from Polk City, IA?

A couple of hours, but I have my FFL so I can get stuff moved easily if I need to.

or I'll PM him and ask if he's available to help

It wouldn't hurt to talk to him. If you wanted to assist us in getting connected that would be fine, assuming he is interested. Is he versed in Colts?

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RDak

· #45 · May 1, 2012

dfariswheel said:
Best thing to do is LOOK.
Even if the bolt tail is bent away from the rebound you can see whether the bottom of the tail is above or below the ledge on the rebound.
If the tail is below the ledge no amount of bending of the bolt can correct that.

If the bolt tail is level with the ledge but too far away then and only then will bending help.
If the tail is below the ledge, "probably" the rebound needs to be lowered.
Again, these things can be difficult to diagnose.

Thanks for the info.

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