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Oils and greases worked for over 150 years preserving arms, many are good. CLP is one of the best. For grease and deep storage, I'd look for Cosmoline or a substitute. It was used by the US Arsenals to crate up 1903s and M-1s for decades of storage. Some will tell you to dab on a newfangled wax. I don't concur.
 

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I've used CLP Breakfree since it became available and it's one of the very best at preventing rust.

I have heard good things about CLP Breakfree Collector as a storage coating. It apparently is a little thicker and doesn't contain the solvent that standard CLP Breakfree does.

The liquid CLP is not as difficult to remove like Cosmoline and other heavy greases and waxes.
For periods less then a few years and not under really harsh storage conditions it's a very good preservative to use.
I've never had anything rust that was coated with a little CLP.
I make sure the gun is really clean, then put a few drops of CLP on a clean, soft toothbrush and "scrub" the metal surfaces. This is better at getting it into all crevices and holes then using a patch or cloth.
This leaves a thin coat that will protect the gun indefinitely.

I use this process on all guns, inside and out as a protective coat, but usually use Super Lube oil and grease for actual lubrication on most guns.
The only difference is, on guns to be stored I leave a slightly heavier coating of CLP, and use a very thin coat on guns that are in use.

I always coat the inside of the barrel and chambers also, but keep in mind that liquid lubes will tend to run down into the action and on wood if the gun is stored upright.
I use a thin coat for the bore and chambers, and inspect the action and wipe out any excess CLP that has run into unwanted areas.

For longer periods or under harsh environments I strongly recommend the VCPI vapor protective bags as sold by Brownell's and Z-Corr.
These are special "hard" plastic bags that contain a material that gives off a vapor that surrounds the metal and totally prevents any corrosion for at least 10 years and as long as 20 years or more.
This is how the military now store guns.
Unlike the old Cosmoline or grease treatments, the vapor is actually better at preventing corrosion, and instead of a lengthy and nasty process of getting the goop off the gun before it can be used, with the bags all you have to do is open the bag, wipe out the barrel and put it in use.

The bags can be bought without the VCPI inside, and you can buy the storage bags and the vapor paper under the Brownell's "Gun Wrap" name.
One warning.... never use any ordinary plastic bags.
These will pass moisture, allow air to enter and the vapor to escape. The special bags are made of a "hard" plastic material similar to that used to ship electronics in. That plastic will not pass air or moisture.
 

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For long term storage, if you have wooden stocks/grips, I suggest you store the stocks separately away from the oil.
 

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I have been using Ballistol for years and never had any problems with rust on any firearm. If I handle a firearm, another wipe down with Ballistol and it is ready to go back into storage.
 

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the bags/Vapor are not harmful to wood I gather?
Brownell's says their VPCI storage bags will not harm wood stocks, optics, plastics, etc.


https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/shop-accessories-supplies/gun-storage-materials/gun-storage-bags/vacuum-seal-storage-bags-prod42749.aspx

Again, under normal conditions most any lubricant coating will protect guns.
If you're in a harsh environment, have to store in a damp area like a closet or basement, or if you need to store a long period of time when you can't or don't want to do periodic inspections, the VCPI storage bags are the best protection there is.

As a historical note, after WWI the military stored huge numbers of 1903 and M1917 rifles by packing them with heavy Cosmoline coatings.
In the 1920's they began unpacking them for inspection and were shocked to find rifles heavily rusted and pitted UNDER the heavy Cosmoline coating. This was thought to be impossible.

Up to this time the rusting caused by corrosive ammunition was thought to be caused some some sort of acid in the powder.
The government hired a top chemist to investigate what caused the rifles to corrode and he discovered the corrosive agent was actually a form of salt produced when a primer fired.
Salt is so attractive of moisture it could attract humidity right through the Cosmoline.
Learning the cause, the military developed bore cleaners that would dissolve and flush out the salts.

I haven't heard of any testing, but the VPCI vapor is said to be so effective at driving out air and moisture and surrounding the metal with the vapor, even a firearm fired with corrosive primed ammo won't rust even if it wasn't properly cleaned before storage.
I would NOT trust that to be true, but the VPCI vapor is the most effective protection you can get for prized guns.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for all the tips... i dont think i ultimately need the bags as i can check on my pistols every month or so, and given the support here for Ballistol, i will just wipe after every time I pick one up
 

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For what it's worth......

I recently saw yet another rust test on another forum, and Ballistol failed badly.

The problem with these rust tests is that the results vary wildly.
Even when done under near-laboratory methods and standards, the results are often totally different from other, equally well done tests.

What is known, is that in the Real World, CLP Breakfree is one of the very best rust preventing lubes.

Interestingly, I recently also read that Ezzox, which is one of the top rated rust preventing treatments contains chlorine, which is known to damage and weaken steels.
 

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Ren Wax for long term storage is what museums are using. It too is available at Brownell's and elsewhere on the internet. Unlike car wax it is petroleum based so it will not yellow over time.
 

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Many years ago, I discovered a good protective Oil from Beeman Arms called MP-5. Worked very well at preserving, and preventing rust. The only place I've been able to source this product anymore at current day, is Pyramid Arms who's largely an Air Arms Seller.
 

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If you've never experienced the smell of Ballistol plan to work with it outside, unless you like the smell of a sweaty gym locker room.
 

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For what it's worth......


Interestingly, I recently also read that Ezzox, which is one of the top rated rust preventing treatments contains chlorine, which is known to damage and weaken steels.
I am wondering where you read that? Any chance you have a link to that info? I did a Google search and came up with nothing on chlorine in EEZOX and no reports of bad results from using EEZOX. I've been using it for storage since the product came out several years ago with no problems at all. It's been the best stuff I've found for preventing rust and corrosion on my guns. Here are the results from one of the best anti rust/corrosion tests that I have found.
Disclaimer: I have no connection to the company and don't own any stock in it but I sure like their product. :D

Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage

(Read all the way to the bottom for the complete test)
 

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I am wondering where you read that? Any chance you have a link to that info? I did a Google search and came up with nothing on chlorine in EEZOX and no reports of bad results from using EEZOX. I've been using it for storage since the product came out several years ago with no problems at all. It's been the best stuff I've found for preventing rust and corrosion on my guns. Here are the results from one of the best anti rust/corrosion tests that I have found.
Disclaimer: I have no connection to the company and don't own any stock in it but I sure like their product. :D

Corrosion Protection Products for Rifles, Shooting, Benchrest Competition, Varminting and Firearms Storage

(Read all the way to the bottom for the complete test)
I "think" I read about the chlorine content on a post on the AR15.com forum. It's been some months since I read it, and being the internet you take things with a block of salt.

I've read a good number of rust test results on the gun forums, and even did a simple test of my own once.
As above, even when done in near-laboratory standards the results vary wildly.
CLP usually is near the top, but due to the variance I just use what my own experience shows to work.
 
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