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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes there is the mexican crest rolled on the top forward on the slide. I will attempt to get a photo and post later my picture skills leave a lot to be desired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Dadduck, PLease don't leave us hanging! I would love to see how it is marked!

Kim
Here it is! Notice the slight tilt to the right, correct according to Book by D. Sheldon on page 117. also serial number part of 600 shipped to Mexico in 1908. The serial number is 308xx. And man are these fun to shoot!
 

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Hi DadDuck,


That is so cool!

I vaguely remember knowing about these, but, I have not thought of them in ages.

Never seen one in person...what fun to see the images of yours!

I love the old '02 Military Model.


Are you shooting old Ammo in yours? Or, do you Load your own?
 

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That is a cool old pistol. DO NOT SHOOT 38 SUPER IN IT. You will end up with a headache. I have an old post of a model 1900 on the forum that will show you what happens after a while. My sisters boyfriend is from Michoacan, I know how they love their Supers down there. I bet the original owner was blasting away with them. Check the slide for cracks or fractures starting near the cross bar.
 

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Yes - no .38 Super, and no 9mm Bergmann-Bayard/9mm Largo.

They fit and fire just fine, but are too powerful for the 'Parallel Rule' design of the early ( non Model 'O' Platform ) Colt .38 Automatics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm using 38 acp ammo. Older but in good clean condition. I had read enough on this forum to understand the importance of not using anything else. Fortunately I was able to obtain several boxes with a couple of the guns when purchased. I really just wanted to test them out so I only shot one mag each. Trying to conserve. They all were flawless. One Sporting, four military's and two pocket hammers. Accurate as far as I can aim!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
All barrels in great condition. I don't believe any of these have been fired in many years. And the folks selling them were not the ones that used them.
 

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About four posts down here are the pictures of the gun I was talking about. The barrel is not the problem, the slide is. These guns do not have an underlug like the 1911. If the nose of the slide gives way, like the one I have. The slide will be in your forhead. Once it comes off there is nothing to stop it. Using the correct ammo is the best idea. http://www.coltforum.com/forums/col...our-38acp-ammo-really-38acp-5.html#post409292
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well the boxes say 38 automatic colt and the bullets are stamped 38 acp. Which lead me to believe they are 38 acp. I understand how the slide works and have inspected them also. Thanks for reinforcing the point, it is well taken.
 

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I expect .38 Super can crack the part of the Slide which fits forward of the Cross-Pin.

I doubt there have ever been any instances of the front of the Slide breaking off, to allow the rest of the Slide to come 'off' to the rear.

Or, this vignette I am sure, exists only in the imagination, and, has never occurred in actual Life.

Or, one would have to keep firing to continue the cracking until finally the cracks would grow large enough to allow the nose of the Slide to start bending upward, which would tend to be extremely obvious, assuming one were somehow failing to notice the damage while it is progressing up to that point.
 

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I was thinking about this issue a little. The problem is the spring. If a 1911, or 1905 spring is installed in a 1900 or 1902 I think it would shoot anything safely. The original slide spring is too weak so that the cross bar hits the rear of the frame, or the compressed spring and sends a shock to the slide nose. It may take some adjusting to get the gun to eject properly due to the extra tension but if tuned properly with the correct tension. I don't see why it would not work.
 

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I was thinking about this issue a little. The problem is the spring. If a 1911, or 1905 spring is installed in a 1900 or 1902 I think it would shoot anything safely. The original slide spring is too weak so that the cross bar hits the rear of the frame, or the compressed spring and sends a shock to the slide nose. It may take some adjusting to get the gun to eject properly due to the extra tension but if tuned properly with the correct tension. I don't see why it would not work.

But with a stronger than standard Spring, when cycling, the Slide would slam home too hard, and might cause some problems from stress with that.

Otherwise, for all we know, some or many m1900s, 1902s, 1903s have 'tired' Springs as it is anyway! Even for their correct Ammunition.

As you suggest - a stronger Spring probably would allow the use of more powerful Ammunition, but, getting it tuned just right would take some finesse definitely.

And, given how scarce and expensive these Pistols are any more, I myself would not see any point in doing it ( installing a stronger Spring so as to expect the Pistol to oblige .38 Super ).

If one wants to shoot once in a while or even more than that, I would think that making sure one has an adequate Spring, for the standard .38 ACP Ammunition, would be a good idea.
 

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A bit of case history with a Colt 1905 .45ACP. When the 1905 was in production, prior to the 1911, the .45ACP cartridge it was designed for and the US Military .45ACP had a similar relationship to the .38ACP and .38Super, though not as wide a gap in relative power.

The 1905 & 1902 are exactly the same gun, but for parts related to cartridge size most parts interchange. A 1905 slide with fit the rails of a 1902 & vise-versa. Failures as discussed here are not uncommon in the 1905. I have seen three and owned one. By failure I mean cracking at the front of the slide, both sides at the front of the slot for the slide lock. The crack proceeds upward & forward at maybe 45 degree angle.

The cracks on the one I had were open close to 1/16". Apparently that affected the relationship between the notches that lock the barrel into the slide just forward of the eject port because a previous owner had installed shims just ahead of where the rear barrel link meets the frame. From that I think when the cracking reached some max amount, malfunction occurred -- which probably would tend to eliminate catastrophic failure. The slide material doesn't seem to be heat treated, just a strong, tough and fairly ductile steel.

In my case, I 'V-ed' the cracks, welded them up and filled the gap at the slide lock with weld & squared off the muzzle of the frame. After refinish prep of the slide and rest of the gun I sent it to Turnbulls & had the markings replaced & charcoal blued. Since I knew where the work had been done, I could see it but nobody else has.

I think it was this one:
 

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Thanks for the added info rhmc24...


I was suspecting that any progress of nose cracking, would end up interfering with the Cycling function or would impede further Shooting, thus limiting the crack's ability to ever travel far enough, for the entire Nose of the Slide to break off in use, in order for the Slide to come off at the rear, in firing.


An experiment I am still wanting to try, is to fire a round with the Cross-Pin removed, to see how much force the Slide will have in coming off the rear.


I figured I would lay out some Blankets and, fire the one Round laying prone, with the Pistol of course, off to the side so my face or body do not interfere with the flight of the Slide.

I am not even sure if it is possible to fire the Pistol with the Cross Pin 'out', or if it will come into Battery, that way...but, one of these days, I will find out, or, anyone else interested to do so, is welcome to find out ( carefully, circumspectfully, of course!) by simple experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Oyeboten, If and when you do this "test" Please video it for us. it would be viewed with great interest by all! Rhmc24 is a true craftsman and as evidenced by his work. I'm Always interested in seeing what he's up to next. Sure wish I could have him move next door!
 
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