Okeydoke...
I will have to find someone to bring along who could Video it ( I do not have any means of doing so, and I have no experience videoing anything ).
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
I will have to find someone to bring along who could Video it ( I do not have any means of doing so, and I have no experience videoing anything ).
Was it a 1902 or 1903 Hammer that Fernando Lamas used in "100 Rifles". he lined up 4 or 5 indios in one scene and shot 1 round through all of them. pretty impressive even if Hollywood.
Was it a 1902 or 1903 Hammer that Fernando Lamas used in "100 Rifles". he lined up 4 or 5 indios in one scene and shot 1 round through all of them. pretty impressive even if Hollywood.
I don't know...
But, I do know, that one day when I happened to be demonstrating my 'Sporting Model' to a friend, in my old Workshop...
I fired a standard round into a piece of Architectural Glue-Lam Beam, ( Beam piece was about four feet long standing on end, and, I aimed for a part of it which was about 1 foot up from the floor ) into the wider section of it which was about 12 inches thick... this at a distance of about 25 Feet I suppose, and, the Bullet went through apparently without slowing down a great deal.
I was embarrassed, Bullet richoche'd off of a Heavy Cast Iron Machine behind, and went on to I did not know where it ended up after that...but I was young and naïve then, and, I there-after regarded the Copper Patch .38 ACP Round, as being one likely to over-penetrate...and hence less than ideal for 'SD' carry or for urban situations.
Regular Lead .38 Special seemed to lodge about three or four inches in...so, I was not expecting the .38 Auto to perform so dramatically!
I suppose it could go right on through several people if they were lined up, so long as the Bullet was encountering only soft Tissue sections, and, not plowing through too much Bone.
Wow, that is penetration.
I am a hoarder of the early Colt autos. Personally inspected hundreds of the 38acp 1900, 1902 Sporting, 1902 Mil, and 1903 Pckt hammer and have fired all but a few of my many 38acp's. I have NEVER seen a stress fracture in the 38acp. I'm sure it has happened, and I would guess that some pistols have been destroyed because of this ( however that is just my guess). Still, I would never shoot 38 super ammo in my old Colt's.
As far as the 1905 45 is concerned, just as previously mentioned, I own a few have had the stress fracture in the front of the slide. My repairs have looked awful. My friend and I tried anther repair that looked better, but would not take a chemical bluing - so it still looks bad. My guess is that large quantaties of military 230 gr hardball went trough many of these 1905's and/or the spring weakened or is to week for this ammo.
As far as the slide coming off while shooting, I've put thousands of rounds through my early autos and will continue to. Never actually seen it happen. Just like my fishing club, without a picture and witness it doesn't count. Not saying that it didn't happen!
I am a hoarder of the early Colt autos. Personally inspected hundreds of the 38acp 1900, 1902 Sporting, 1902 Mil, and 1903 Pckt hammer and have fired all but a few of my many 38acp's. I have NEVER seen a stress fracture in the 38acp. I'm sure it has happened, and I would guess that some pistols have been destroyed because of this ( however that is just my guess). Still, I would never shoot 38 super ammo in my old Colt's.
As far as the 1905 45 is concerned, just as previously mentioned, I own a few have had the stress fracture in the front of the slide. My repairs have looked awful. My friend and I tried anther repair that looked better, but would not take a chemical bluing - so it still looks bad. My guess is that large quantaties of military 230 gr hardball went trough many of these 1905's and/or the spring weakened or is to week for this ammo.
As far as the slide coming off while shooting, I've put thousands of rounds through my early autos and will continue to. Never actually seen it happen. Just like my fishing club, without a picture and witness it doesn't count. Not saying that it didn't happen!
For whatever it's worth after bluing after a weld ---- back in the day when I was busily working on clients mostly pre-1800 guns, I now and then got a job to restore a barrel to its original length. That produced a joint of three different steels, the original, the added piece and the deposited weld. With that I had a joint that showed - whatever I did in finish. Old guns usually wanted a brown or an antiquish bare iron.
Then I was using a stick welder with electrodes least in alloys I could get. Later I used a MIG welder with the standard wire.
I can't recall how I discovered it other than trying thru frustration, but the fix for me is to do my almost finish polish, then heat the welded area and immediate area red hot, then after cool do finish polish.
I had done a weld on a Colt auto and talked with Turnbulls who predicted the weld would show after their blue. Minor weld, I gave my treatment, figured I could touch up somehow, I sent it anyway and it came back hardly visible. Another of my 1902 re-creations had been victim of at least half dozen bubba events of saw, file and grind, which I welded up, gave my red heat treatment. One I missed and it was plainly visible that I just left as-is, something a future owner might guess about.
I've used Turnbull charcoal blue which may or not give a different result from other hot dip blues.
Then I was using a stick welder with electrodes least in alloys I could get. Later I used a MIG welder with the standard wire.
I can't recall how I discovered it other than trying thru frustration, but the fix for me is to do my almost finish polish, then heat the welded area and immediate area red hot, then after cool do finish polish.
I had done a weld on a Colt auto and talked with Turnbulls who predicted the weld would show after their blue. Minor weld, I gave my treatment, figured I could touch up somehow, I sent it anyway and it came back hardly visible. Another of my 1902 re-creations had been victim of at least half dozen bubba events of saw, file and grind, which I welded up, gave my red heat treatment. One I missed and it was plainly visible that I just left as-is, something a future owner might guess about.
I've used Turnbull charcoal blue which may or not give a different result from other hot dip blues.
Wow, that is penetration.
I am a hoarder of the early Colt autos. Personally inspected hundreds of the 38acp 1900, 1902 Sporting, 1902 Mil, and 1903 Pckt hammer and have fired all but a few of my many 38acp's. I have NEVER seen a stress fracture in the 38acp. I'm sure it has happened, and I would guess that some pistols have been destroyed because of this ( however that is just my guess). Still, I would never shoot 38 super ammo in my old Colt's.
As far as the 1905 45 is concerned, just as previously mentioned, I own a few have had the stress fracture in the front of the slide. My repairs have looked awful. My friend and I tried anther repair that looked better, but would not take a chemical bluing - so it still looks bad. My guess is that large quantaties of military 230 gr hardball went trough many of these 1905's and/or the spring weakened or is to week for this ammo.
As far as the slide coming off while shooting, I've put thousands of rounds through my early autos and will continue to. Never actually seen it happen. Just like my fishing club, without a picture and witness it doesn't count. Not saying that it didn't happen!
Indeed - with the m1905 Colt .45 Automatic, it's appropriate original Ammunition was some ways less powerful than the later Model "O" Ammunition.
I doubt that hardly anyone ever bothered to insist to stay with the proper Ammunition, for their '05, once the Model "O" came out along with it's Ammunition, as the decades wore on.
Nor have I ever seen any Boxes of early .45 ACP, which seemed to represent in the Label, which .45 Auto they were for, other than, when stating Bullet Weight and FPS, they were for the Model "O".
And or that I think far more people were or remained cognizant, of the Ammunition distinction, of .38 ACP and .38 Super.
I have only seen one or maybe two small 'cracks' on the front of the Slide, forward of the Key, on .38 Automatics.
What I have seen far more of, is Bulged Barrels!
One 'Antique Arms Show' I remember, I saw five Bulged Barrel Colt .38 Automatics...which were being offered for sale by three different Sellers.
Sellers had not noticed this, and, had not removed the Slides to notice it.
When feeling interested to maybe buy a .38 Automatic, I would want to field strip, and inspect, which, in each instance I did with the Seller's permission, and, Lo and Behold, "Bulged Barrels".
I imagine this had resulted from 'squib' Loads, long ago, which got the next round firedon top of the lodged Bullet, without clearing the Barrel.
For whatever it's worth after bluing after a weld ---- back in the day when I was busily working on clients mostly pre-1800 guns, I now and then got a job to restore a barrel to its original length. That produced a joint of three different steels, the original, the added piece and the deposited weld. With that I had a joint that showed - whatever I did in finish. Old guns usually wanted a brown or an antiquish bare iron.
Then I was using a stick welder with electrodes least in alloys I could get. Later I used a MIG welder with the standard wire.
I can't recall how I discovered it other than trying thru frustration, but the fix for me is to do my almost finish polish, then heat the welded area and immediate area red hot, then after cool do finish polish.
I had done a weld on a Colt auto and talked with Turnbulls who predicted the weld would show after their blue. Minor weld, I gave my treatment, figured I could touch up somehow, I sent it anyway and it came back hardly visible. Another of my 1902 re-creations had been victim of at least half dozen bubba events of saw, file and grind, which I welded up, gave my red heat treatment. One I missed and it was plainly visible that I just left as-is, something a future owner might guess about.
I've used Turnbull charcoal blue which may or not give a different result from other hot dip blues.
I have been wanting to get a 'TIG' outfit for years now..! every time I get fired up about it, I am too broke...or, when I have dough, I forget I was intending to get one and I buy an old Gun, instead...Lol...
I imagine if one were to Saw out some 'slivers' from a donor-condemned Slide or Frame ( depending ), the Alloy then being identical to the repair needed, one could then Weld up or Weld in using those to supply the material, anneal, ( Heat Treat if appropriate ) and, have no tell-tale 'line'.
What Make/Model 'TIG" do you have? And, are you happy with it?
Mine is a MIG, not a TIG, a Lincoln maybe 10 years old now, 100 Amp, their smallest at the time. I bought with it the gas bottle for inert gas it needs. Same kind of welders can use a wire with flux in it that eliminates need for the gas. I don't know what if any difference in performance. There must be some reason for the two kinds.
I once had a TIG welder, roughly same idea as the MIG but the MIG deposits the wire into the weld while the TIG just draws an arc from an electrode that doesn't melt and you use a separate rod filler. It requires inert gas to operate. One of its benefits is it will weld aluminum if you feed it with aluminum rod. Versatile, but I got rid of it because in NY where I was at the time, you couldn't own a gas bottle and the gas supplier kept harassing me because I was keeping his bottle tied up with the little amount of welding I was doing.
The idea of using some of the donor material as filler could probably work with a TIG but not with the MIG system due to its wire being the filler.
I once had a TIG welder, roughly same idea as the MIG but the MIG deposits the wire into the weld while the TIG just draws an arc from an electrode that doesn't melt and you use a separate rod filler. It requires inert gas to operate. One of its benefits is it will weld aluminum if you feed it with aluminum rod. Versatile, but I got rid of it because in NY where I was at the time, you couldn't own a gas bottle and the gas supplier kept harassing me because I was keeping his bottle tied up with the little amount of welding I was doing.
The idea of using some of the donor material as filler could probably work with a TIG but not with the MIG system due to its wire being the filler.
Nor have I ever seen any Boxes of early .45 ACP, which seemed to represent in the Label, which .45 Auto they were for, other than, when stating Bullet Weight and FPS, they were for the Model "O".
Here are a few photos of a box of 50 rounds 1914-dated Winchester .45 ACP which I think is appropriate for the Colt 1905 Military Model pistol.
Here are a few photos of a box of 50 rounds 1914-dated Winchester .45 ACP which I think is appropriate for the Colt 1905 Military Model pistol.
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Here are a few photos of a box of 50 rounds 1914-dated Winchester .45 ACP which I think is appropriate for the Colt 1905 Military Model pistol.
Yes those do look as if they may be the correct ones for the Model of 1905.
200 Grain...( though the Label does not state the attributed FPS ).
Cupro-Nickle 'Patch' I am guessing ( rather thean the more usual Copper Patch ).
Now that I am musing on it - What was the Colt in-House Model designation I wonder, for the 1905?
I know I have an early box of .45 ACP...I will try and find it and post an image...but, I kind of think mine is for the m1911/Gov't Model and if memory serves, having in mock Stencil on the Label, "230 Grain...800 Feet per Second" or something to that effect.
I would like to find it, since way the 230 Grain and FPS was written, it was as if they wanted to alert the Customer, to it being for the latter .45 Auto, and, not for the earlier one.
Hi Oyeboten: here's my box of 50 Winchester 230-grain .45 AC "adapted to .45 Caliber Automatic Colt U.S. Government Model 1911;" it'll be interesting to see how it compares to your box.Yes those do look as if they may be the correct ones for the Model of 1905.
200 Grain...( though the Label does not state the attributed FPS ).
Cupro-Nickle 'Patch' I am guessing ( rather thean the more usual Copper Patch ).
Now that I am musing on it - What was the Colt in-House Model designation I wonder, for the 1905?
I know I have an early box of .45 ACP...I will try and find it and post an image...but, I kind of think mine is for the m1911/Gov't Model and if memory serves, having in mock Stencil on the Label, "230 Grain...800 Feet per Second" or something to that effect.
I would like to find it, since way the 230 Grain and FPS was written, it was as if they wanted to alert the Customer, to it being for the latter .45 Auto, and, not for the earlier one.
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