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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 47 Ace, not Service model. Posted it in autos forum.

Shot it for first time today. Extremely accurate but the slide seems to be a bit sluggish going into battery. I have no other Ace to compare it to but it is not snappy. Also had a couple light strikes using CCI.

The gun was immaculate when it arrived but I’ve had a Woodsman light strike due to dirty firing pin channel. Also I wonder if it needs to be cleaned with a detail strip- I only field stripped it.

Finally it’s an old gun and springs are often weak on old autos. Are the springs the same for the Ace and Service Model? I found some where seller claims that.

thanks for any suggestions
 

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A detail strip and clean and lube might work wonders.
I believe the same recoil spring was used on the various .22 Ace/Conversion kit models so I'd replace it.
Wolff Gun Springs sell a 14 pound spring for these.


Other then a fouled firing pin and channel a lighter or weak mainspring can cause light strikes.
However, the mainspring seldom ever weakens in the Colt's.
I'd do a strip clean and lube of the frame too to insure old dried lubricant isn't slowing the hammer.

Last, your Colt just may not "like" that particular brand-type of ammo.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All of that makes sense and usual, you are generous with your knowledge. Thanks!
 

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You would be amazed at the people who have no idea how decades old lubricants can dry up and turn almost solid. Firing pins are notorious for this. Just to see if it is the FP--using the small tube blast in some gun scrubber or I use brake cleaner, a couple of times then follow with some CLP. If it works better know it needs to be stripped and detail cleaned.
 

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The old timers called this hard, dried oil "Varnish".
It's hard enough I've had side plates resist removal from being "glued" on by the dried varnish.
It's usually a dark brown color and looks like.....dried varnish.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Interestingly, it came with a spare mag which has old grease or something that has turned into varnish on the rear. But the visible surfaces of the gun from the field strip were immaculate.

im going to order a Wolff recoil and a main spring (even though the latter is usually ok, nice to have it), brake clean/clp the firing pin and then try again.
 

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I have seen bolts "glued" closed with that varnish.
A friend brought me a Ruger MK1 his uncle gave him, said it was broken because the bolt wouldn't pull back. It had been stored for years in the top of a closet. I sprayed it with brake cleaner and CLP and it was still stuck. Finally had to run a wooden dowel down the barrel and rap it with a mallet. Sure enough all around the bolt was that clear brown varnish from dried WD-40.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I took it apart again to clean it before the range and low and behold found varnish on a couple spots on the slide. Cleaned, oiled and shot it. Now it goes into battery without hesitation but I think a new spring would help.

It did fail to extract 9/10 shots which I think is CLP on the extractor face (from firing pin cleaning). So I cleaned the extractor and bolt face and will try again with a new spring.
 

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I took it apart again to clean it before the range and low and behold found varnish on a couple spots on the slide. Cleaned, oiled and shot it. Now it goes into battery without hesitation but I think a new spring would help.

It did fail to extract 9/10 shots which I think is CLP on the extractor face (from firing pin cleaning). So I cleaned the extractor and bolt face and will try again with a new spring.
Ok another tip --- I buy this by the case but compressed air. Use it to blow off excess lube like CLP. Can use the small tube to get it into firing pin holes etc etc.......

Also, if you are shooting a rifle and your tube/chamber gets hot impacting your POI from heat and the latent stress left in the tube or heat soaking of the round causes pressure/velocity/POI changes------turn the canned "air" upside down and spray it on as a liquid on the Outside of the barrel and throat area especially! The liquid is cold -50 to -100 depending on the what is in the contents....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Updates:

After cleaning the extractor face with a mild degreaser the gun extracts 9/10 shots using HV ammo. Standard velocity shells are usually left in the chamber.

The slide usually goes into battery fully but not always.

Still have occasional light strikes.

New Wolff 14lb recoil/main spring is on the way. However, I read a post somewhere after ordering it that said that spring is for the Service Model as the Ace uses a much, much lighter spring.

Finally, I noticed there are 6 of the fiber buffers in the gun where the schematics ask for 8. Looking around no surprise I don't see these buffers anywhere though synthetic types marketed toward 1911 45s are out there and should do fine as a stand in. I don't know if more buffers would help with any of the issues. My understanding is the (non service model) Ace uses them to prevent the much-lightened slide from battering itself. I suppose it could affect the cycle itself though I'm still figuring this gun out.

Next plan is to compare 14 lb spring with what is in the gun, order some buffers and try the gun with 8 and finally, consider a detail strip. I've never detail striped a 1911 before so I will read up on it first. I've detail stripped a couple E frame Colt revolvers which are pretty fiddly so I think this couldn't be any worse.
 

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I could be wrong, but I believe the buffers were made out of thick pieces of leather.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
14lb spring arrived. The Ace clearly uses a much, much lighter spring. It's possible the Service Model uses the same spring as the .45 but this spring is not correct for the first Ace design.

I ordered some synthetic buffers to try in the gun to replace the 2 missing buffers. Also I plan a detail strip and clean this weekend.

Finally I may trim down the 14lb spring to see if just a tad more oomph will help with the cycle. It's a gamble but it's a cheap part.
 
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