Welcome to the forum. Anyone interested in disassembly, checking and cleaning a D frame should really have a copy of The Colt Double Action Revolvers: A Shop Manual, Vol. 1 by Jerry Kuhnhausen. It is available from Midway, Brownells and various book sellers. Parts replacement and adjustment is best left to a qualified repair facility, but the book is still a "should have". /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Having said that and without any knowledge of your experience, I would caution to use the correct screwdriver(s) which would be hollow ground of the right width and thickness to avoid the too common screw damage. The crane lock is what appears to be a large screw on the right (opposite latch) side. It is actually a cap that retains a detent spring and detent. After removing it and the spring and detent, open the crane and position the cylinder so that a flute will provide clearance to the frame and move the crane forward. Removing the cylinder from the crane depends on whether you have the old or new style cylinder and ejector rod and can require a special tool in the former case. The book really becomes a good idea at this point. I also have to disclaim any responsibility. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Here's where you can RUIN the ejector system.
The first thing you have to know is how old your Cobra is and which ejector assembly it has..
There are two ejector rod assemblies.
The older one REQUIRES two special wrenches. Attempting to disassemble without the wrenches can destroy the ejector or the ejector rod.
Without the special crane bushing wrench you cannot disassemble the ejector rod and spring assembly AT ALL.
Since you'll probably try disassembly no matter what we advise, here's how to determine which version you have:
Put three EMPTY cartridge cases in the chambers to support the ejector.
Put the ejector rod head in a PADDED vise. (Use brass or leather pads to protect the rod head).
Grip the HEAD not the shaft.
Carefully rotate the cylinder counterclockwise which will unscrew things.
If the rod HEAD unscrews off the ejector rod, STOP.
It's the early type assembly and you CANNOT disassemble it without the special wrenches, and trying to do so will almost certainly damage the ejector threads.
Ejector's are factory fit parts ONLY, and new or used ejectors CANNOT be "dropped in".
If the ejector rod itself unscrews, you can go ahead and disassemble the cylinder assembly, as long as you don't bend the rod or strip the threads in the rod or ejector.
Again, FAIR WARNING: These assemblies are easy to damage, especially the early version, and if damaged, you will NOT be able to just buy parts somewhere and install them.
They WON'T fit.
Yes, if you notice in the schematic, both do unscrew. However, most would strongly suggest that, at this point, you can successfully flush and lube without the need for further disassembly. The star technically requires a special wrench, but I find a 6 pt 10mm socket works for me. For the knurled rod end, I use pliers if necessary, but avoid damage by first wrapping it (something like elastic band from briefs works for me). HOWEVER, even after you remove those two parts which really doesn't allow much additional cleaning and lubing, you still can't get the rod out without a crane bushing wrench. http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=712&title=COLT+CRANE+BUSHING+TOOL and if it is restricted in any way by corrosion would require soaking in something like Kroil first. The wrench is rather fragile and is at risk for breaking on all but the cleanest bushings. So, caveat emptor. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Ooops, again Dr. D, we were posting at the same time. Fortunately, it was you first. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
I'm not sure when the change took place and it may not have been abrupt. So called "third issue" with the shrouded ejector still used the old style ejector/cylinder. Among others, I have a 74 with old style and an 82 with new style. Based on observation and not knowledge of design data, I believe you can distinguish the two aside from removing the head vs the rod by the old style having two grooves in the rod and the new style having one. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
Well, I guess mine is the earlier one afterall. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
I turned on that little knob at the end, and the knob itself came off.........not the entire rod. So, I just left it. I really wish I could get this stuff cleaned up better, though. I tried flushing it some with that "Tetra Gun" cleaner/lube cause it's very light. I didn't want to use Hoppes, since I wouldn't be certain I had removed all of it.
The Tetra helped, but I can still feel the tiniest amount of grit in there.
You might try really flushing with just solvent/cleaner like GunScrubber or even brake cleaner. Yes, the older style is a bit of a pain and a risk to disassemble...I guess that's why there is a newer style. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
To avoid the hassle of disassembling a Colt cylinder to clean "gunk" out of the interal areas, here is what I do. I take a piece of steel rod about one-fourth inch in diameter and place it between the ejector and cylinder, which keeps the ejector "open" so as to allow solvent to enter those internal areas more easily. I then put the cylinder in Hoppes Number 9 for a couple of days. After removing it, I use compressed air to blow out as much Hoppes as possible, and then follow that by blasting it with starting fluid (highly flamable but VERY inexpensive compared to the "dedicated" gun solvents and more effective). When the ether evaporates, I follow with spray Tetra-Gun, which is very thin, penetrating and "non-gumming."