The trigger on a 1911 has almost nothing to do with "trigger pull" except for imparting a rearward linear motion to the sear.
The crispness has to do with the interface between the sear and hammer hooks. It needs to have the right angle, smoothness, and hammer hooks height, sear hook height (by adjusting sear relief angle), and proper tension on the sear leaf and the grip safety to give a safe hammer that won't fall off of the sear when the gun chambers a round. The pull weight is mostly due to the tension set on the sear spring leaves.
Installing a grip safety is not as complicated, but it can have difficulties depending on how the frame is cut (or not cut).
It's a fairly complex procedure so I might suggest that you have a professional gunsmith fix your trigger and your grip safety. You will spend less money and be happier with the job. If you want to be a 1911 gunsmith (a very fun thing as a hobby to do if you're like me), there a numerous places you can learn that, perhaps including the gunsmith you already know.
Buck
The crispness has to do with the interface between the sear and hammer hooks. It needs to have the right angle, smoothness, and hammer hooks height, sear hook height (by adjusting sear relief angle), and proper tension on the sear leaf and the grip safety to give a safe hammer that won't fall off of the sear when the gun chambers a round. The pull weight is mostly due to the tension set on the sear spring leaves.
Installing a grip safety is not as complicated, but it can have difficulties depending on how the frame is cut (or not cut).
It's a fairly complex procedure so I might suggest that you have a professional gunsmith fix your trigger and your grip safety. You will spend less money and be happier with the job. If you want to be a 1911 gunsmith (a very fun thing as a hobby to do if you're like me), there a numerous places you can learn that, perhaps including the gunsmith you already know.
Buck
