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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a Colt Officers Match 22lr. It was made sometime in the 60’s and is/was in an unfired condition. Recently I decided to use it. I have a minor problem – the cylinder latch is somewhat sticky and at time wants to stick back in the rear position. It will go forward with the slightest touch and the spring appears to be functioning. Can anyone advise me on how to correct this or is this is a big problem to fix?

Any advice is appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Administrator
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Most likely old oil has gotten sticky with age .
You might try a small amount of good gun oil or on extreme cases I've had good luck working a little Hoppe's #9 into the mechanism .

Nice gun . You'll enjoy shooting it /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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Sounds like just a little cleaning and lubing. Many guns that are/have been "unfired" have been untouched in a long time and older type lubes, especially grease, can really gum up and harden. If you're uncomfortable removing the sideplate, then flush with GunScrubber or equivalent and lube with some good current lube such as CLP. However, if you have this symptom with the latch, I would suspect that the entire action and the cylinder/crane would benefit greatly from the same. Sideplate removal gives the best access to the action. Not sure of your mechanical and firearms experience overall, but use of correct size screwdrivers, preferably hollow ground, is important as damaged screws are very common "blemishes" on otherwise nice guns. There are some previous posts on cleaning and lubing involving various degrees of "invasiveness". I will look for some of the posts if you wish. Also highly recommended is the Jerry Kuhnhausen book "The Colt Double Action Revolvers, A Shop Manual, Vol. 1" covering D, E and I frames. That is also referenced in several posts. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 

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Perfect example of why I disasseble and completely clean and lightly lube ALL "pre owned" revolvers that I buy!

Have often wondered what "fossilized crud" is lurking inside many "safe queens".Often they will function fine-UNTIL you actually shoot them! Then recoil can jar the "crud" a little bit, tying up,or making "sticky" some of the action parts etc.

Learned this when I bought a nearly "new" 1919 vintage S&W M&P Target model. Less than 5 cylinder full of mild wadcutters knocked the crud loose,tying up the revolver. From then on,no matter how "mint" the gun looks,they all get torn down(still hoping to find a $100 bill stached in the grip frame!-but did find the phone number of some woman the owner of a New Service I bought,must have "met" while on a hunting trip to the far north of Maine here; phone exchange numbers on the slip of paper were discontinued in the 1950's!!!

Get Khunhausen shop manual(s) PROPER tools,especially gunsmithing screwdrivers,and a scratch free work area!

Good Luck,

Bud /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all for the help & info. I am a bit reluctant to put a screwdriver to this piece but I may have to. I will try the flush out first and see how it does.
 
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