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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought this Colt Police Positive in 38 Special .....
Revolver Air gun Blue Trigger Wood


and it cleaned up very well but there's one slight fly in the ointment. Which I knew of but not the cause.

With a bit of push on the cylinder right to left there's a position where the cylinder will swing out without the thumblatch being pulled back. The thumblatch works fine, the spring is strong. I checked the cylinder pin assembly and protrusion from the recoil plate is the problem - very, very shallow. So, I need a new assembly and it's of course the harder to find .170 diameter. Have checked the usual sources and found nothing.

Any suggestions?
 

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Nice looking revolver. If you look up its manufacture date or order a factory letter, be sure to refer to it as a "Police Positive Special" and not a "Police Positive" as the latter had a shorter cylinder and could not chamber the .38 Special cartridge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice looking revolver. If you look up its manufacture date or order a factory letter, be sure to refer to it as a "Police Positive Special" and not a "Police Positive" as the latter had a shorter cylinder and could not chamber the .38 Special cartridge.
Funny you mention that ....

I did a RIA bid a few months back and they had a 6" Police Positive listed in "38". Beautiful shape. I wasn't paying attention and when the gun and its 1 1/4" length cylinder showed up ..... oops. So, now I also reload for the 38 S&W. ;)

This one is definitely a Police Positive Special, barrel stamped but not visible in my less than stellar photo.
 

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Before buying a new latch pin, inspect the frame cut for burrs or deformation that may be preventing the pin from moving fully forward.
Also check the pin in the latch for a forward bend that's limiting movement and check the latch for burrs, alteration, or deformation.

I've seen cases of the small semi-circular positioning cut for the latch pin that was burred or impacted with fouling and was preventing forward movement.

Check the latch finger piece for full forward movement in the side plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Before buying a new latch pin, inspect the frame cut for burrs or deformation that may be preventing the pin from moving fully forward.
Also check the pin in the latch for a forward bend that's limiting movement and check the latch for burrs, alteration, or deformation.

I've seen cases of the small semi-circular positioning cut for the latch pin that was burred or impacted with fouling and was preventing forward movement.

Check the latch finger piece for full forward movement in the side plate.
The frame cut is clean and symmetrical, no burs or deformities. Same with the cylinder pin and the latch piece, clear and clean. Wish one of those were the cause as finding the correct diameter replacement has become a challenge. I see a few fixes which in my youth would have jumped ahead to but decided to wait and think over first. Making mistakes = experience.

Re the frame cut and latch pin, removing a smidgen of metal from the front of the pin and frame cut would allow the "male" cylinder pin to seat farther forward and have more engagement with the "female" of the ejector star. "Smidgen" and "Dremel" are mutually excusive for me, but unless I'm overlooking something should work fine. The frame cut isn't full width of the retaining pin, so the entire pin (that interacts with the thumb latch) doesn't need to be relieved, just the section that butts up against the frame.
 

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One option is to manufacture a new latch pin from drill rod.

Just select a size the same diameter, drill it for the pin that connects to the finger piece, and trim to length.

Unless someone shortened the latch pin, something is off.
Check for excessive cylinder end shake, head space, burrs in the ejector latch hole preventing full seating, etc.

When working with a used or old gun..suspect EVERYTHING trust NOTHING.
 

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I have both, a Colt Police Positive Special in .32-20 WCF and a Colt Police Positive in .38 S&W. Both have 4 inch barrels but the Special does have a bit longer Frame and Cylinder to handle the extra length of .38 S&W Special and the .32-20 WCF. Great little Camp Guns

Big Jake 1001
Photograph Air gun Trigger Mammal Revolver
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
One option is to manufacture a new latch pin from drill rod.

Just select a size the same diameter, drill it for the pin that connects to the finger piece, and trim to length.

Unless someone shortened the latch pin, something is off.
Check for excessive cylinder end shake, head space, burrs in the ejector latch hole preventing full seating, etc.

When working with a used or old gun..suspect EVERYTHING trust NOTHING.
No end shake. I found a replacement on line. It's a smidgen longer than the original. Compared to the replacement the original is much more rounded on the leading end. Also, replaced the latch spring as it was weak and the latch spring pin was missing - didn't notice that at first. Much more forward pressure than before. I think the combination of above caused the problem.
 
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