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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I just took my new 2020 python to the range and came back, have been cleaning it. When I dry fire it, I notice this scraping sound as I am pulling trigger/cylinder is rotating. It's not a very loud sound and you can hear it when you put your ear near the cylinder. Just wondering if this is normal? Like nothing is broken and I am just noticing the sound just now?
 

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Welcome to the COLT Forum from the Cradle Of Liberty...Pennsylvania !!



Enjoy Our Community Sir...hard to tell the problem when we not only don't hear it, but don't see it either.

Are there scratch marks involved too...?

Is the lockup tight...or more like stuck shut...?
 

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Make sure the side plate screws are tight and try it again. It could also be some crud inside the action...try spraying some cleaner inside and let drain and see if it does the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Welcome to the COLT Forum from the Cradle Of Liberty...Pennsylvania !!



Enjoy Our Community Sir...hard to tell the problem when we not only don't hear it, but don't see it either.

Are there scratch marks involved too...?

Is the lockup tight...or more like stuck shut...?
There are no scratch marks. can you tell me what you mean by the lockup?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Make sure the side plate screws are tight and try it again. It could also be some crud inside the action...try spraying some cleaner inside and let drain and see if it does the same.
when you say spraying the action, which area specifically of the revolver are you referring to?
 

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Before doing anything here's some checks to do.
Open the cylinder and then cycle the action to hear any unusual noise.
Both pull the trigger slowly and cock the hammer slowly in this step.

With the cylinder open rotate the cylinder and listen.

With the cylinder closed, pull the hammer back far enough that you can rotate the cylinder and listen.

Open the cylinder and push the ejector back. Closely inspect and/or use a stiff toothbrush to liberally scrub the inside of the ejector and it's seat in the rear of the cylinder.
Often when ejecting cases grit and fouling can get trapped under the ejector and cause stiff cylinder rotation or noise.
To avoid this from happening, always eject cases by holding the muzzle upright so the cases and any fouling will fall free.

This may help narrow down where the problem is.

If you didn't hear anything before you went shooting, it's most likely some grit, fouling or bits of metal from the cases have gotten into something.

If you think the sound is in the actual action, you can try flushing it out by spraying in a cleaner like a "gun scrubber" product........Note that this will remove all lubrication so you'll have to spray in a good lubricant.
If you go this way, REMOVE THE GRIPS and swing out the cylinder.
Put a plastic needle nozzle on the spray can (They come with one) and give the action a liberal spray down in front of the cocked hammer, up into the action from the bottom opening with the grips off, and up in front of the trigger with the action cocked.

Allow all the cleaner to dry. You can speed this up by blowing compressed air in from all the above openings.
After the gun is completely dry, spray in some sort of a spray lubricant of your choice, then shake-drain or blow out the excess.

Let us know the results of the above tests and possibly we can help further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Before doing anything here's some checks to do.
Open the cylinder and then cycle the action to hear any unusual noise.
Both pull the trigger slowly and cock the hammer slowly in this step.

With the cylinder open rotate the cylinder and listen.

With the cylinder closed, pull the hammer back far enough that you can rotate the cylinder and listen.

Open the cylinder and push the ejector back. Closely inspect and/or use a stiff toothbrush to liberally scrub the inside of the ejector and it's seat in the rear of the cylinder.
Often when ejecting cases grit and fouling can get trapped under the ejector and cause stiff cylinder rotation or noise.
To avoid this from happening, always eject cases by holding the muzzle upright so the cases and any fouling will fall free.

This may help narrow down where the problem is.

If you didn't hear anything before you went shooting, it's most likely some grit, fouling or bits of metal from the cases have gotten into something.

If you think the sound is in the actual action, you can try flushing it out by spraying in a cleaner like a "gun scrubber" product........Note that this will remove all lubrication so you'll have to spray in a good lubricant.
If you go this way, REMOVE THE GRIPS and swing out the cylinder.
Put a plastic needle nozzle on the spray can (They come with one) and give the action a liberal spray down in front of the cocked hammer, up into the action from the bottom opening with the grips off, and up in front of the trigger with the action cocked.

Allow all the cleaner to dry. You can speed this up by blowing compressed air in from all the above openings.
After the gun is completely dry, spray in some sort of a spray lubricant of your choice, then shake-drain or blow out the excess.

Let us know the results of the above tests and possibly we can help further.
Thanks. So I opened the cylinder and slowly cocked the hammer - noise not there. When the cylinder is closed, and I slowly cock it, I can hear it. Keep in mind, I can only hear it if my ear is really close to the cylinder, so I'm not sure if this sound is just normal and I'm being paranoid...It is overall very quiet and I was wondering if it was the cylinder rubbing against the lockup that was causing this subtle sound? I also pushed the ejector back and used a brush to scrub anything that was there, but noise is still there. Any ideas? Don't think if its the action since I would assume there would be noise even if the cylinder was open but thats not the case?

I am assuming you have the 2020 python - do you have no noise at all when you cock the hamemr with the cylinder in? Again, "noise" as in when you put your ear next to the cylinder. Otherwise, its definitely not noticeable since the click of the hammer cocking is far louder.
 

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This could just be the cylinder locking bolt dragging on the cylinder.
The locking bolt is in the bottom of the frame window, and is designed to ride on the cylinder for much of it's rotation.

Other possibilities are the normal sound of the rear of the ejector rotating against the breech face of the frame.

It's hard to diagnose these things without actually seeing the gun but all I can offer is to ask "How loud or how "bad" does it sound?
If you have to put your ear against the gun to hear it, it's probably not an issue.

Things to inspect.........
Look at the rear of the ejector ratchet for burrs or excessive roughness.
Look at the breech face for burrs or excessive roughness.
Look for fouling in the front of the cylinder where the crane shaft enters. If this is the case simply rotating the open cylinder should produce the sound.
Look for a sharp edge or burr on the top of the cylinder locking bolt.

Is the action smooth?
Any hesitation or roughness in the double action trigger pull?
Is the gun properly lubricated?
Any fouling missed when you cleaned it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This could just be the cylinder locking bolt dragging on the cylinder.
The locking bolt is in the bottom of the frame window, and is designed to ride on the cylinder for much of it's rotation.

Other possibilities are the normal sound of the rear of the ejector rotating against the breech face of the frame.

It's hard to diagnose these things without actually seeing the gun but all I can offer is to ask "How loud or how "bad" does it sound?
If you have to put your ear against the gun to hear it, it's probably not an issue.

Things to inspect.........
Look at the rear of the ejector ratchet for burrs or excessive roughness.
Look at the breech face for burrs or excessive roughness.
Look for fouling in the front of the cylinder where the crane shaft enters. If this is the case simply rotating the open cylinder should produce the sound.
Look for a sharp edge or burr on the top of the cylinder locking bolt.

Is the action smooth?
Any hesitation or roughness in the double action trigger pull?
Is the gun properly lubricated?
Any fouling missed when you cleaned it?
Thanks, I will try things out later. I guess you are right if its that quiet, its not an issue - I guess what bothers me is that this is a brand new 2020 python I just got. The other day I went to a gun shop and they also had the same model and when I put it against my ear, I heard nothing (cylinder closed and cocking the hammers lowly). Not to mention that this one also had a double action that felt buttery smooth when compared to mine...unsure if its because I fired about 80 rounds through mine while the one at the gun shop was obviously unfired, but after paying $1500, I would like to think that makes no difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This could just be the cylinder locking bolt dragging on the cylinder.
The locking bolt is in the bottom of the frame window, and is designed to ride on the cylinder for much of it's rotation.

Other possibilities are the normal sound of the rear of the ejector rotating against the breech face of the frame.

It's hard to diagnose these things without actually seeing the gun but all I can offer is to ask "How loud or how "bad" does it sound?
If you have to put your ear against the gun to hear it, it's probably not an issue.

Things to inspect.........
Look at the rear of the ejector ratchet for burrs or excessive roughness.
Look at the breech face for burrs or excessive roughness.
Look for fouling in the front of the cylinder where the crane shaft enters. If this is the case simply rotating the open cylinder should produce the sound.
Look for a sharp edge or burr on the top of the cylinder locking bolt.

Is the action smooth?
Any hesitation or roughness in the double action trigger pull?
Is the gun properly lubricated?
Any fouling missed when you cleaned it?
Another thing I notice is that when I pull the trigger, I hear this small rattling noise (different from the initial sound I described). I read on the forums to put oil down the right side of the frame, but its still there...any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Actually sorry, I may have put oil down the incorrect part being described in forums - would I have to take off the grips and then apply the oil? I am unsure where to apply so it gets to the hammer block
 

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I’ve been following this thread for awhile and either you should take it to a local gunsmith and forgo the Colt warranty or continue to reach out to Colt. Others have been successful in contacting them.

Others have also shared how to add oil but let me suggest something different. Remove the grips and in every possible opening (trigger, hammer, hand, ejector, recoil shield area, mainspring, etc.) spray Remington oil. Do it over a paper towel and saturate the sucker. By the way, search for a gun schematic if you are unfamiliar with the terms people have used. Good luck.

737218
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’ve been following this thread for awhile and either you should take it to a local gunsmith and forgo the Colt warranty or continue to reach out to Colt. Others have been successful in contacting them.

Others have also shared how to add oil but let me suggest something different. Remove the grips and in every possible opening (trigger, hammer, hand, ejector, recoil shield area, mainspring, etc.) spray Remington oil. Do it over a paper towel and saturate the sucker. By the way, search for a gun schematic if you are unfamiliar with the terms people have used. Good luck.

View attachment 737218
would break free CLP work too?
 

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Unless it's changed, the spray from a can of CLP Breakfree comes out in a big slurp not a fine spray.

When I needed a spray of CLP I used an airbrush to get a finer mist.
DO NOT BREATH THE MIST, you will not like it.

With that said, spray in some CLP and operate the action a few times to distribute it.
Give it time and like many lubricants CLP will creep into all areas.
Shake-blow out the excess and allow it to drain.
 

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Every old DA revolver I get I take off the grips, and spray "slurps" of CLP inside, before cycling the action. Let it drain for a couple hours, wipe off, then try it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Every old DA revolver I get I take off the grips, and spray "slurps" of CLP inside, before cycling the action. Let it drain for a could hours, wipe off, then try it again.
sadly this is a 2020 python :(
 

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As most know, the "new" Pythons have VERY long "leades" on the cylinder leading up to each locking notch. As dfw mentions, it could be the bolt riding the "leade" to lockup. The bolt drops almost immediately as the hammer is cocked, so there is a lot of dragging as the cylinder turns. If the surface in the bottom of the "leade" is a bit rough, or the bolt is a bit rough, or a combination of both, the bolt might make a scraping sound as the bolt rides the "leade" to lockup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
As most know, the "new" Pythons have VERY long "leades" on the cylinder leading up to each locking notch. As dfw mentions, it could be the bolt riding the "leade" to lockup. The bolt drops almost immediately as the hammer is cocked, so there is a lot of dragging as the cylinder turns. If the surface in the bottom of the "leade" is a bit rough, or the bolt is a bit rough, or a combination of both, the bolt might make a scraping sound as the bolt rides the "leade" to lockup.
got it, is there a fix for this?
 
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