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Discussion Starter #1
I have noticed the other rust posts on this forum, but I wanted to ask something specific.

My Colt Python has rust on the spring underneath the grips. How disastrous is that? Can I just clean it, or does that mean it needs to be sent in?

Thanks in advance for any advice.


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A pair of hemostats and small piece of 000 fine steel wool a spot of Kroil, being careful not to push the main spring out of place, surface rust removes easily. A picture of the extent of the rust would be helpful,if' there's pitting it could compromise the spring,eventually.
 

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There is really no need to remove surface rust from the main spring, unless it bothers you. Just put the preservative of your choice (mine is Eezox) on the spring and forget it. If it bothers you, remove the main spring and remove the rust by your method of choice.
 

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If the rust is a light coat of rust, as above simply apply a good penetrating lubricant like CLP Breakfree and let it soak a few days.
Then you can put more on a patch and rub the area as best you can to remove the loosened rust.
Then just keep some of the lube on the area to stop further rust.

However, if the rust is heavier and you see noticeable pitting, the spring needs to be replaced since the pitting will probably cause the spring to break sooner or later.

I'd also be inspecting the gun thoroughly to spot any rust in other places that may be hidden.
You can usually do a decent inspection without disassembly by using a strong light and magnifier to look up inside the frame with the grips off and down in front of the cocked hammer.
 

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There is really no need to remove surface rust from the main spring, unless it bothers you. Just put the preservative of your choice (mine is Eezox) on the spring and forget it. If it bothers you, remove the main spring and remove the rust by your method of choice.
I've heard that you need a gunsmith to get at the internals of a Python. Is removing the plate to get at the spring a safe idea?


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You do not need a gunsmith for complete disassembly of any Colt revolver, with the possible exception of the cylinder assembly, which should not be disassembled in most cases.

To remove the side plate, remove the stocks and side plate screws first. Then repeatedly strike the bare butt (!) frame sharply with a hammer handle or the like until the side plate vibrates off. When putting it back on, be sure the cylinder latch is properly placed on its stud and the hammer block is properly placed in its groove. After using finger pressure to replace the side plate as far as you can, use a non-marring object to tap the side plate back into position. Reinstall the screws and tighten them. Done.

When the side plate is off, use smooth jaw pliers to squeeze the main spring enough to allow it to be disengaged from the hammer link. Clean off the rust as you desire and reinstall in the reverse. Done.
 

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Ya'll are pretty nonchalant about rust, actual RUST, on a Colt revolver... I couldn't get a good night's sleep if I thought there were fingerprints that hadn't been wiped off...rust?My dad would spin like a top in his grave, claw his way out, and walk the earth till he got me.
 

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Ya'll are pretty nonchalant about rust, actual RUST, on a Colt revolver... I couldn't get a good night's sleep if I thought there were fingerprints that hadn't been wiped off...rust?My dad would spin like a top in his grave, claw his way out, and walk the earth till he got me.
I share your feelings about rust. A while back I looked at a Boa that was for sale at a local gun shop. In addition to holster wear and after-market grips, this revolver had three areas of serious pitting, two on the frame, and one on the cylinder. Reminded me of the pitting I once saw on a hunting rifle that hadn't been cleaned of bloody fingerprints. Looking at that Boa was a depressing experience. I never thought that I would pass on a Boa, but I passed on that one.
 

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I've heard that you need a gunsmith to get at the internals of a Python. Is removing the plate to get at the spring a safe idea?


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If you'd like to tackle Python disassembly to give it a good inspection and cleaning, I highly recommend buying the Jerry Kuhnhausen Shop Manual Volume One.
This is a real pistolsmiths manual written as a training aid for new gunsmiths.
It shows 100% disassembly and all pistolsmithing as it's done by Colt. There are none of the usual jackleg or expediant gun butchery you often read about.
This is money VERY well spent if you own any Colt.

I also strongly recommend buying several Brownell's Magna-Tip gunsmith screwdriver bits. These are the very finest and prevent damaging Colt screws, price is cheap compared to buying new screws.

Buy the following sizes:

.120-3
.150-3
.180-3
.210-3

These will fit all Colt double action screws. Since screw slots can vary slightly, you also might buy a -4 bit in each size to insure a perfect fit. If you don't have a short driver handle, also buy a law enforcement size Brownell's handle. These are made with magnetic or clip bit retention.

THE COLT DOUBLE-ACTION REVOLVERS - A SHOP MANUAL | Brownells

Magna-Tip Bits | Screwdrivers & Sets at Brownells

LAW ENFORCEMENT HANDLES | Brownells
 

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Some years back Brownells had 2 screwdriver bit sets with the normal screw handle included. They were in a brown plastic hinged case. I believe the set that contained some very wide and thin bits must have been specialty bits as one needed to be very cautious about torgue lest they were prone to breaking. I lucked upon a complete "regular" set and a 1/2 complete thin set at an estate sale for the princely sum of $10 for the first and $5 for the incomplete set. Needless to say those sets are invaluable if one intends on turning any firearm screw. I also have a few hollow ground gunsmith screwdriver sets in the very unlikely event that the Brownells bits don't fit exactly. Thus far, knock wood, I've yet to bugger up a screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks everyone! Very helpful comments, especially from dfariswheel. I'm glad I don't have to take it to the gunsmith.


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