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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey folks, I'm a newbie to this forum but not to shoot'n...so, I have a brand new Colt Delta Elite 10mm that is acting up... with that said I'm hoping someone out there has delt ( pun intended ) with the same issue and can give me some insight to my issue... I bought a new Colt Delta Elite 10mm and it has a bad habit of not going to full battery...I have only run factory ammo in her - Federal Hydro-Shocks, Remington FMJs, PMC 170HP's and it will go bang, bang then stop about a half inch from full battery - it ejects the spent round and feeds a new round fine but stops short - I hit the back of the slide and she'll go bang again when the trigger is pulled...now I inspected the spent cases and found some wear/shiny spot/indents near the case mouth and on the case head, I took a dremel and removed the sharp edges on the throat at the top of the feed ramp and that corrected the feed issues with the nickle plated ammo but the natural brass is still sticking about 5 to 10% of the time - I can't trust this weapon for self defence !...What can ya offer for solutions, last step is sending it back to Colt cause I don't want to ruin the piece...thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
hey chaosrob thanks for the reply , I did removed the ejector arm and inspected it because I had a .45 that needed the "Wilson Tuning" to get it to eject spent cases...everything looked ok but it did seem that the "bend' on the ejector was a little excessive in that I had to use a small screw driver to push it back to get it out of the slide hole - do you think the ejector is stopping the case from seating ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oooop's my bad, just took the slide off and the ejector is tight - inline and shows no odd wear with just a spot of brass rub on the leading face like it should for only running 100 rounds through it...

As far as mag's go I just have the two Colt mags that came with the gun, both springs are strong and the follower(s) does not have a lot of toe/heel teeter...


Again this is a brand new pistol - other than the factory I'm the first to put rounds through it...

Thanks for the reply's !
 

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last step is sending it back to Colt cause I don't want to ruin the piece...thanks in advance
If you started grinding on the feed ramp without even knowing what the problem is, you may already have done just that.
 

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Personally I wouldn't go randomly altering things on a new firearm. As you may know there is a lot of reliance on timing with a 1911 pattern pistol. If there is a qualified smith around that would take a look at it I would go that route first. Otherwise send it back to the experts with a description of the issue. Yes it will take some time to get it back but in the end you will have a pistol that works and is still covered by warranty. I understand your frustration. I have had two firearms(both Smith & Wesson revolvers) that had to go back to the factory. It s*%ked. If you start doing things yourself it may just end up that you have an expensive pistol that doesn't work, isn't saleable, and won't get fixed for free from Colt.

And welcome to the forum. This place is loaded with no B.S. guys who are straight shooters.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ha-Ha...I love it !...this forum has "haters" on it too...that is too funny...first off I never sell guns I buy, it's kinda like "till death do we part", if she was good enough to marry or buy in this case she is good enough to grow old with...and like a good woman she will have faults like this 10mm, but I will get past this feed issue... now to anyone still left on this forum that has some tid-bit of advise I'm all ears... to address the grinding remark - I was a tight tolerance machinist for a long time so I know a thing or two about removing material, all I did was remove the sharp edge at the beginning of the throat and give it a fine polish and hey what do ya know the second time I took her to the range I not only increased the feed of the nickle cases to 100% over the last trip but I removed the small mark that the sharp edge was causing on the case itself...and thanks "ratzo" for the welcome, and I agree about not making any radical changes that I'm unsure of, which is why I joined this forum to get some sound advise before making a thousand dollar paper weight !
 

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KC, they are not "hating" on you, they are just trying to give you helpful advice. Sometimes the truth sounds harsh...I have been the recipient of it many times, but it does not change the fact that it is the truth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
no worries chaosrob, I don't take anything personal...and I really appreciate someone taking the time to share.
 

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Sounds like the chamber is a bit tight. A finish reamer should fix it up. On a new pistol, I would send it back to the manufacturer (in this case Colt's). Not knocking your skill/ ability, but that sharp "edge" you hit with the Dremel is supposed to be there. The extent of issues it may ultimately cause depends on the amount of material removed.

Funnel
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks funnel cake, that makes sense to me, that chamber prolly just passed on the go/no-go gauge and just needs a little dusting...looks like she's heading east again.
 

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Newb here, but not a newb. Only 100 rds and you're 'smithing on it? I understand your background, but I wouldn't touch anything til 250 or more rds went down the tube. That being said, did the problem go away? Did Colt's get it back or did things work out. Let us know what the results were.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hey thanks for rattling my cage, I resolved my issue and never sent the gun back to Colt...and regarding the amount of material removed from the barrel throat it was soo minimal you could barley call it more than a healthy polishing, that said I would prolly have looked at my post and came to the same conclusion you did - but since I was living in the moment with a gun that wouldn't run, I wasn't going to burn a bunch of powder to see if I could wear out the issue and I felt the three loads I tried were a decent representation of over the counter fodder in two different hollow points and a FMJ and they all failed, so I ruled out the bullet config not even thinking it was a powder issue..."Ratzo" re-educated me on an important characteristic of truly any semi-automatic firearm when he said "As you may know there is a lot of reliance on timing with a 1911 pattern pistol."...that got the wheels back on track from something is mechanically wrong to not enough bang to properly function the gun. From there after reading so many complaints about today's factory ammo for the 10mm being so anemic with reduced load syndrome, I took the chance and bought some other premium self defence ammo that offered higher velocities and came across Buffalo Bore 180grn JHP...this ammo created the timing required to function my Delta Elite...I looked the ammo up on the Midway USA website to see where Cabela's pricing was, I posted below what they said...and after reading what the owner of B.B said it reaffirmed the timing issue...after running a bunch of this ammo through my gun I'm 100% satisfied with the reliability to carry this piece.

Thanks again for asking for the follow-up, someone else might benefit.


Product Information
Buffalo Bore loads their ammunition up to maximum SAAMI specifications, which delivers devastating performance on a wide range of game. Please note that this ammunition is not intended for older guns. It is made for modern firearms only, and is safe to fire in any 10mm pistol in safe working condition. This ammunition is new production, non-corrosive, in boxer primed, reloadable brass cases.

Owner of Buffalo Bore Tim Sundles on Heavy 10mm Ammunition:

The Buffalo Bore Heavy 10 mm ammo is the result of many years of customers requests that we produce several such loads for the 10 mm.

These loads bring out the full potential of the 10mm, but operate at standard pressures and as such, are safe to use in any standard 10mm pistol.

We are using flash-suppressed powders so your vision will not be materially affected should you be required to drop the hammer in low light.

If you are firing this 10mm ammo from an autoloader and experience high extreme spreads in velocity, it is not the ammo. Here is why and how to remedy the situation.

Full power 10mm ammo has always generated enough recoil and pressure to require a pretty stiff recoil spring in your handgun - this of course depends on several variables such as your slide weight, etc. When the cartridge fires, it generates enough pressure/recoil to prematurely open your breech face in some guns. When this happens, the opening breech face has an effect on the burn rate of the powder. This can result in some fairly high extreme spreads in velocity. If you are experiencing extreme velocity spreads of more than 50 fps, simply install a stiffer recoil spring. For example, I have an original Colt Delta Elite. This gun with the factory spring runs extreme spreads of about 35fps with both of these 10mm loads. I am happy with 35 fps, so I leave the Delta Elite as is. I also have a custom built Para Ordinance with a Nowlin barrel. It runs extreme spreads of about 70 fps with its original recoil spring. When I install a spring that is 4 lbs stiffer, the extreme spread drops to about 35 fps. The new Glock model 20 comes with a recoil spring that allows the breech face to open too soon and my new Glock model 20 will get extreme spreads of about 100fps with the factory spring installed. When I go to a stiffer recoil spring, the extreme spreads drop to about 50 fps in my new Glock model 20. Of course none of this will be an issue in a revolver. None of this will be an issue in real life either, as these high extreme spreads don't hurt accuracy or function. However, I mention this because if you are like me and want things to be as correct as possible, I have outlined the problem and the solution. The industry fixed all these problems initially, by watering down the 10mm ammo over the last several years. The watered down 10mm ammo does not generate the pressure/recoil to open the breech face early. If you want the full powered 10mm ammo we make, you simply need to tweak your pistol. Or just realize that you are getting some fairly high extreme spreads and ignore it or live with it. It's not hurting any thing in reality.

Please note below, my personal velocities taken from real pistols.
1. 1311 fps - Glock model 20 4.6 inch barrel
2. 1337 fps - Colt Delta Elite 5 inch barrel
3. 1351 fps - Para Ordinance 1911 with Nowlin 5 inch barrel
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~Vaya Con Dios~
 

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Premature unlocking can certainly hurt things. It means chamber pressures are higher than they are supposed to be at unlocking, and since the bullet is still in the barrel when the barrel and slide start moving rearward, it probably doesn't do anything for accuracy, either. You will have excessive slide velocity, which will wear-out the gun faster.
Instead of a stiff recoil spring, up the rating on the mainspring a couple of pounds; it does more good, and unlike the heavy recoil spring, no harm. If you really want to get into it, install a Harrison Design firing pin stop, which will increase the effectiveness of the mainspring in retarding unlocking.
 

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Assume you field stripped it. Cleaned and lubed it before first range trip. I would have sent it back to Colt after calling them and being very unhappy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
accuracy has not been an issue with this gun, it groups tighter than my other 1911's in .45 and my H&K in .40s&w - I really enjoy shooting it, after talking to an old retired gunny at the range he said to just remove the smaller assist recoil spring and the gun should function ok with the lesser velocity ammo I had purchased so to not waste it - I have a Wilson Buffer installed for added protection during cycling and was considering this because it makes sense on paper, but we know how Wile E. Coyote's great plans on paper worked out...lol...has anybody ever tried this ?
 
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